22 sc islander salt water conversion/ trim tabs and other tips needed

[Beaver Islander]

Re: 22 sc islander salt water conversion/ trim tabs and other tips needed

Yea, the Chris, she is beauty. I bought it many years ago because my late mother, who was ailing at the time, had been born and raised in Algonac, MI, where Chris Crafts were built back in the twenties and thirites. She knew the Smith family in the small town, had pictures of her draped on top of a few Capris in bathing suits out on the Detroit river. She was all of 16 years old.
I bought it so she could relive a few memories of her youth, at least that was my excuse. When she passed, it sat in storage for several years. I just spent the last few months bringing the boat back up to saleable condition. The money from that sale, which I call my "toybox account", will go back into the account and I am going to use it to get the two Starcrafts up to my standards,(see photos) which is all about seaworthiness and fishing capability...

I was trying to keep the deck from going rigid which I think the epoxy coats do. (??)
CPES was for flexability,and sealing only.
I didnt realize it was on the starmada's s*** list, hmmm
Can you direct me to the thread ?
or can someone give me a first hand account?
it's not too late to change my mind.....

 

[jasoutside]

Re: 22 sc islander salt water conversion/ trim tabs and other tips needed

Here ya go:

http://forums.iboats.com/starcraft-boats/im-owner-1975-islander-22-a-400583-14.html#post2892066

To be fair, I the other fella in that part of the conversation really liked the CPES.

 

[Beaver Islander]

Re: 22 sc islander salt water conversion/ trim tabs and other tips needed

Got back to work today...
2300lb pressure washed the inside of the hull, concentrating on the seams and rivets, etc...
found only 4 seepers.
These are amazing boats, original condition 37 years old and only 4 seeping rivets.
Time to grind and then lay the Gluvit...
Splitting time between building a green house for the Admiral and my toy....

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 22 sc islander salt water conversion/ trim tabs and other tips needed

The product you are referencing is nothing more than Thinned epoxy. You can do the same using acetone and epoxy. Doing this you can get the consistency you want/need. 50/50 would be a good base coat followed by one full coat. Epoxy is VERY flexible and will not make the deck to rigid. I think you'll find this interesting...

Varnish and Epoxy~ a Professional Wood Finish for Teak Part1 - YouTube

 

[Beaver Islander]

Re: 22 sc islander salt water conversion/ trim tabs and other tips needed

Three days of warm (55-64 degree) weather this week.. time for the gluvit.
Thru hull plumbing is here:
3/4" pick up and stainer coupled with an epoxied wood Crush Washer on the hull inside. Topped off with a marelon 3/4" seacock.
Set on top of that... a Rule 800gph dual port live well pump.The second port outlet will go to a washdown set up(TBD) . Going to be busy.

Decided to upgrade the existing flooring to 3/4". Will be adding at least three deck hatches, two near the doghouse and one in the center of the cockpit area.The thicker wood will help...I wont have to glass the floor for strength to compensate for the extra holes in the floor..
So, it's off to the lumber yard...
Pictures will come when I actually get some of this accomplished.

Somewhere in this scenario I am supposed to be running my business... guess I need to retire...

 

[bikesnboats]

Re: 22 sc islander salt water conversion/ trim tabs and other tips needed

"Do you happen to know the distance from the gunwale to the deck in a "stock" islander?
Do you know anything about 22 islanders where the deck seems higher than others?" I just measured the interior of my 1970 Islander: From the top of the cockpit combing at its after end to the deck is 35", from the combing to the deck at the after end of the side windows is 41". The deck (1/2" plywood) rests on the flattened top faces of the athwartship bilge stringers and is even with the top face of a lip or flange inside the hull where hull bottom and sides meet (pictures of same in my post"restoring a 1970 Islander"). It appears your boat has lifted the deck by means of an interior aluminum box structure under deck throughout your boat by what looks like at least 6". My cockpit interior plan view dimensions are no doubt identical with your boat with interior athwartships measurement of 65"; and from the combing at the stern to the after part of the horizontal dash at the helm is 11'. I'm intrigued by your Baja trips and intend to use my boat when finished for salmon and tuna, and even perhaps Baja. Ensenada was once a favorite of mine. I will be installing a 165 I6 from a donor boat I own and will be adding freshwater cooling prior to 'Splash". My boat had post style helm seats, but at the much appreciated suggestion of some who attend this forum I am investigating installing boxes and seats similar to those on your boat. Doing so will give me two 18 gallon fuel tanks under each stern seat and 18 gallons under each of the boxes where your forward seats are mounted. My guesstimation is that at 7 gph at 20-25 mph cruise I can expect about 200 mile range; just right for tuna or extended cruising. I would be grateful to have the dimensions of your forward seat boxes and the height of the flange at the sides of your interior above the stringer faces; and keep me posted on your Baja expeditons. Two Islanders have just got to be better than one! Thanx in advance, Beaver Islander
bikesnboats

 

[Beaver Islander]

Re: 22 sc islander salt water conversion/ trim tabs and other tips needed

been a while since I have had time to reply to threads or anything for that matter.

Been busy as a Beaver on the Islander.
after the Gluvit, I went through the hull and replaced all runner rivets, added "L" brackets, stuffed the heck out of the thing with lots and lots of high density foam(had some left over from a store remodel a few years back... sure glad I kept it around).

Cut new decks from 3/4" and installed four Jim Black deck hatches from Great Lakes Skipper.

Installed a below deck live well using an old 162 qt Igloo cooler that I chopped down a bit to fit.

Moved the batteries and switch below deck in front of the motor with an easy access hatch.

Set up the cockpit with a deck wash down system (Shurflow 800 gph), using a Rule marine head evac/head pump system (800 GPH)to pump it overboard, as the deck is too close to the water line to safely use scuppers. Sealed off the deck using alum angle edge, and then installed two 1.5 inch deck drains. This keeps fish blood out of the bilge.

Set up for a transom mounted 20 gallon bait system using a Brute trash can, as it already has a mounting system on the bottom of the can.This uses a Rule 800gph live well pump.

All inlet water is run through only one thru hull mounted seacock and then piped off to its' different delivery ports.

Set up the evac/head and the live bait well pumps with emergency valves to double (triple?) as extra bilge pumps.

Using nautolex to floor the whole thing.

Installed a Floscan fuel meter
Installed Bennett sport 12" trim tabs.
Both were e bay items

Had the two 18 gal saddle tanks cleaned and pressure tested. New sending units from Mirax.
Then...
I drove a Michigander newby(to Mexico) buddy of mine down to La Paz, Baja, Mex. in his car, (1400 miles), caught a few 50lb. Rooster fish and 50lb.yellowtail, left him there, as I had to get back home..flew home ($136) on Volaris airlines back to the border at San Diego with my fish in a cooler...

Now after I finish sealing up this deck and lay the vinyl, I'm starting on the bottom paint and hull paint........