23' Lonestar Cabin Cruiser. Converting to an outboard.

[64osby]

Re: 23' Lonestar Cabin Cruiser. Converting to an outboard.

Outline looks good.

I would be looking to put some vertical members in the frame, especially where the motor will be.

It will be interesting to see the long term reports on your transom build.

 

[63cruiser]

Re: 23' Lonestar Cabin Cruiser. Converting to an outboard.



Got the transome welded in but wind started blowing and I could not finish the splash well. Hopefull this weekend will nice weather. I clamped in a few pieces to get an idea of how the splash well is going to look.

 

[kentuckydiesel]

Re: 23' Lonestar Cabin Cruiser. Converting to an outboard.

Hey,

I am about to do some major structural upgrades to my '61 Cruiseliner. What series aluminum and what type of wire are you using? Is it welding to the hull well?

I run a manufacturing company where we fabricate/weld steel all day long. I can weld aluminum too...just not sure what series alloy the lonestar hulls were.

Thanks,
Phillip

 

[kentuckydiesel]

Re: 23' Lonestar Cabin Cruiser. Converting to an outboard.

BTW, if you want pictures, I have the floor out of mine right now, so I can show you anything you want to see. Just let me know what you want pictures of.

-Phillip

 

[kentuckydiesel]

Re: 23' Lonestar Cabin Cruiser. Converting to an outboard.

...and to answer another question for you, I am running twin Johnson 70s. If I ever get rid of the 70s, I will probably be going with around a 300hp diesel/jet drive. (I love my boat, and I plan to continue upgrading it)

The twin Johnson 70s currently have 13.25"x19 pitch props, and the boat does about 30mph. It will do much better when I fix the hook in the hull caused by a previous owner hitting something. I would bet the boat will do 40 once I fix the hull.

As far as the factory HP ratings, they basically pulled them out of their backsides. I would consider 140hp to be a (barely) decent HP level for my boat, but it could sure use more. A 23' boat doesn't even need a HP rating according to the coast guard, and these boats will handle a great deal of weight/power. Your only concern will be making sure the transom is strong enough to handle the weight/thrust of whatever outboard you use.

-Phillip

 

[Bamaman1]

Re: 23' Lonestar Cabin Cruiser. Converting to an outboard.

It's very doubtful that this boat originally was an I/O, as we didn't see many of the original Mercruisers until the mid-late 60's. The original I/O's were pretty crappy--until Mercruiser redesigned their outdrive system later.

There is a vast difference between the structure of an I/O and an outboard hull. The weight on an I/O goes between two stringers under the front of the engine--and on the transom mount with two tapered bolts. On an outboard, the weight is 100% on the transom.

The easiest way to convert an I/O to an outboard is to first seal up the transom and make sure the transom's structurally sound. Then you get a custom fabricated external motor mount that mounts the engine 3' or 4' behind the boat. You would place diagonal bracing from where the external motor mount is bolted onto the transom at a 45 degree angle into the stringers of the boat--strengthing the transom from flexing.

I'll have to admit your welding looks pretty doggone good. You've undertaken quite a project. Those old aluminum day cruisers were really good running boats with the 165 hp Mercruisers. I would think that a 115 hp or more 2 stroke motor would power them just fine.

 

[nickcunn]

Re: 23' Lonestar Cabin Cruiser. Converting to an outboard.

nice work, You have quite a large project but its taking shape. I just recently restored an old 71 glastron runabout. It was more than I thought but I can say I rebuilt the boat except for the fiberglass. Which I did do some patching with.

On target -- I believe the 140 hp motor should push you pretty good. Please keep us updated.

 

[63cruiser]

I do not know what type of aluminum the but i have welded 6063 and 50xx(not sure of the sheet) but it all welds the same and looks good. Just clean very well with a stainless steel brush only used on aluminum and clean with acetone. I tried welding some of the uncleaned stuff and was very bad. But that was just to see what happens. I use 4043 lincoln wire.

 

[63cruiser]

I have done lot of work on it. Just have not had time to put some pics on hrre. Will try this weekend. I just got some new welding stuff. Hoping to finish welding this weekend.

 

[63cruiser]

Does anybody have pictures of the original steering wheel, controls, fuel tanks and seats. I want to use the original console if possible. Thanks.

 

[63cruiser]

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[63cruiser]

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[63cruiser]

I got all the splash well braces welded in and the sheets cut today. Going to try to get everything welded in tomorrow.

 

[63cruiser]

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[63cruiser]

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[63cruiser]

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[63cruiser]

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[63cruiser]

After finishing welding the rest of the splash well sheeting I am going to fill in the outdrive hole with fiberglass. Then fix a hole in the bottom that was for the inboard. It is starting to look good for shad season.

 

[63cruiser]

After finishing welding the rest of the splash well sheeting I am going to fill in the outdrive hole with fiberglass. Then fix a hole in the bottom that was for the inboard. It is starting to look good for shad season.

 

[63cruiser]

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All the bracing is done. Cut all the sheets, going to try to get welded in this week and hopefully get the back filled in. I think I am going to have to take it to a welding shop to get the hole in the floor fixed because I can not get my gun under the floor to weld it and I do not want to rip out the floor.