party barge
Cadet
- Joined
- Aug 14, 2007
- Messages
- 25
I am new here and my name is Bob. I think this site is awsome btw. I read quite a bit here however I don't see what would help answer a few questions for me and was hoping someone would. I certainly would find sincere appreaciation.
I have boated for years, mostly big block jets and is where my knowhow basically is. This is my first mercruiser and I got schooled on this one big! This will be a long post but it will familiarize ya with the total scenario. It is also very broke up for easier reading and finding
I purchased a 24 Rinker Flotilla with a 260 merc. It was a fresh water boat only when I bought the boat in 2000. It was nearly new never used from PA. It had paint in the pulleys still. I hardly used it in salt but did forget about the risers maintanance and you guessed it...salt water got in. It is now 2005
I thought it was a starter so I bought one....I thought it was the battery selector swith so I bought one....I thought it was batterys so I bought 2...I figured I bought a bad starter so I took it back. I pulled in a friend a week later and he put his hand on the starter as I turned the key and he said the starter can't turn over the motor and that it was frooze up! The starter was tweakin' hard. We got a breaker bar out and prooved the damage done.
We'll, I told him I had just had it running for the first time this year and was fine and when I called down the family for a ride for the day this is where it landed and how could this be. A week had gone by when we did this and then we pulled the plugs and out came the water....son of a gun! I got bit and now the motor was not only hydrauliced but frooze up. I unfrooze it only to burn up a new sarter and a 2 selector swithches. So here we go..
6 months later I took it out and apart. What a mess! Salt can really ruin stuff, never seen anything like it. Have you? holy cow....
I got all the pistons out after about 6 hours of beating them and the engine completely apart.
I had everything hot tanked and brought back to me for a miriatic acid cleaning to remove all corrosion.
I came to the conclusion that the crank would be replaced from serious pitting.
I sent it all back for a total rebuild correctly and was perfectly fine. The fella's that did it build race engines especially for 355 chevy ovals. I trusted them. All is good in this department......so far.
I bought GLM aluminum manifolds and risers and a new edelbrock marine 600. All other stuff was replaced as well.
I had a certified Mercury marine mechanic do the drive install with WATER IMPELLER <<<<<caps for a reason, we'll return later with the main question. LOL...
He did the install and checked for things after he timed the engine. He sarted it and reved it to warm it up....THIS IS ON A TRAILER NOW SO YA KNOW....this is where he was unprofessional and involves another question later LOL.
He put it in forward and reved it and then pulled it back in reverse to rev it while the prop was not stopped.......YIKES! I looked at him and said, "your certified?" Oh brother! LOL
I heard a clicking noise after that during rotation that was prominate to say the least but it rotated. I agreed to take it for a ride and load the prop like he said. After removing the outdrive the L shift lever just flops around, something is broke
It never went away in reverse but forward it got somewhat quit or the water muffled the sound. "In the water test" seemed fine but the motor was now louder than it ever was it seemed.
I went back for first ride with the family after 2 years or longer. This was on the 4th of July. I had the boat out 4 times since then and all was good except for a couple of things. It was clicking and the pitch of the motor would change freqently...sometimes louder and sometimes that normal mercruiser "quit sound" where all you can hear is air intake, would come back. And that is a pleasant sound I found.
My temp never changed. Last weekend we werr going along and the motor got loud again and when I asked my brother to take the wheel so I can lift the lid to listen the thing was nearly on fire! All the exhaust tubes were fried, the paint on the head/intake area is gone and we laid towels wetted down to kill the heat and prevent the thing from burning to ashes....Geez.
My questions are.....Can a water pump on this cavitate or suck air some where some and if it does and minimal water gets to things can this have been why the engine pitch was changing? minimal water thru the exhaust. I burned everything and all the bellows too. even the shifter cable is locked now.
Did this certified mechanic screw something up in the outdrive while shifting from forward to reverse without propstop have an affect on cooling or the clicking. I know he broke something and he denys it totally.
Here's my new issue now and a 3rd question...I am maintaning all the oil pressure and it is CRYSTAL CLEAR still. Is there by any chance that this system maintains water level in the block while an over heat unlike a car?. I mean all the hoses are still good and tight. I am just hoping the rings are good and I can save the short block.
I resealed and replaced everything and fired it up. It don't sound good:redface:. I believe that the valves and springs have an issue. It does fire on all 8 it seems so far but is a little rough now.
Here is another concern I have. I hear knocking in the rear is why we took off the outdrive also. Sounds like a mild journal knocing but at an infant stage like marbles as they say.
I did change the FLAPPERS and the new ones open from a hinge on the center I saw. IS THIS MAKING THAT NOISE? I can put my hand on the tubes and feel it banging in there. I don't know if you can feel the exhaust go thru the tubes or not or if this is those revised versions of the flappers banging on the tubes from reversion exhaust.
All in all.... my main concern is did the block hold the water during overheat because it just does according to the book and are the rings good as a result?... and is that weird exhaust sound them darn flappers now or is the rebuild bad now...Can the exaust get that hot to a point of fire but the block stay cool somewhat. From the plumbing I see this seems true to me. I sure would hate to remove and rebuild this again if it is all just in the heads needing redone. I don't see any blowby...very minimal and constant if any and ya relly gotta look too but no puff puff ya know.
What would be the procedure to test the rings?
What would the compression numbers be if they are normal?
What would be a normal variation in the numbers?
I did shave .020 off the heads.
Hey, sorry for the long post and like said..all is appreaciated and thanks a ton.
I have boated for years, mostly big block jets and is where my knowhow basically is. This is my first mercruiser and I got schooled on this one big! This will be a long post but it will familiarize ya with the total scenario. It is also very broke up for easier reading and finding
I purchased a 24 Rinker Flotilla with a 260 merc. It was a fresh water boat only when I bought the boat in 2000. It was nearly new never used from PA. It had paint in the pulleys still. I hardly used it in salt but did forget about the risers maintanance and you guessed it...salt water got in. It is now 2005
I thought it was a starter so I bought one....I thought it was the battery selector swith so I bought one....I thought it was batterys so I bought 2...I figured I bought a bad starter so I took it back. I pulled in a friend a week later and he put his hand on the starter as I turned the key and he said the starter can't turn over the motor and that it was frooze up! The starter was tweakin' hard. We got a breaker bar out and prooved the damage done.
We'll, I told him I had just had it running for the first time this year and was fine and when I called down the family for a ride for the day this is where it landed and how could this be. A week had gone by when we did this and then we pulled the plugs and out came the water....son of a gun!
I got bit and now the motor was not only hydrauliced but frooze up. I unfrooze it only to burn up a new sarter and a 2 selector swithches. So here we go..6 months later I took it out and apart. What a mess! Salt can really ruin stuff, never seen anything like it. Have you? holy cow....
I got all the pistons out after about 6 hours of beating them and the engine completely apart.
I had everything hot tanked and brought back to me for a miriatic acid cleaning to remove all corrosion.
I came to the conclusion that the crank would be replaced from serious pitting.
I sent it all back for a total rebuild correctly and was perfectly fine. The fella's that did it build race engines especially for 355 chevy ovals. I trusted them. All is good in this department......so far.
I bought GLM aluminum manifolds and risers and a new edelbrock marine 600. All other stuff was replaced as well.
I had a certified Mercury marine mechanic do the drive install with WATER IMPELLER <<<<<caps for a reason, we'll return later with the main question. LOL...
He did the install and checked for things after he timed the engine. He sarted it and reved it to warm it up....THIS IS ON A TRAILER NOW SO YA KNOW....this is where he was unprofessional and involves another question later LOL.
He put it in forward and reved it and then pulled it back in reverse to rev it while the prop was not stopped.......YIKES! I looked at him and said, "your certified?" Oh brother! LOL
I heard a clicking noise after that during rotation that was prominate to say the least but it rotated. I agreed to take it for a ride and load the prop like he said. After removing the outdrive the L shift lever just flops around, something is broke
It never went away in reverse but forward it got somewhat quit or the water muffled the sound. "In the water test" seemed fine but the motor was now louder than it ever was it seemed.
I went back for first ride with the family after 2 years or longer. This was on the 4th of July. I had the boat out 4 times since then and all was good except for a couple of things. It was clicking and the pitch of the motor would change freqently...sometimes louder and sometimes that normal mercruiser "quit sound" where all you can hear is air intake, would come back. And that is a pleasant sound I found.
My temp never changed. Last weekend we werr going along and the motor got loud again and when I asked my brother to take the wheel so I can lift the lid to listen the thing was nearly on fire! All the exhaust tubes were fried, the paint on the head/intake area is gone and we laid towels wetted down to kill the heat and prevent the thing from burning to ashes....Geez.
My questions are.....Can a water pump on this cavitate or suck air some where some and if it does and minimal water gets to things can this have been why the engine pitch was changing? minimal water thru the exhaust. I burned everything and all the bellows too. even the shifter cable is locked now.
Did this certified mechanic screw something up in the outdrive while shifting from forward to reverse without propstop have an affect on cooling or the clicking. I know he broke something and he denys it totally.
Here's my new issue now and a 3rd question...I am maintaning all the oil pressure and it is CRYSTAL CLEAR still. Is there by any chance that this system maintains water level in the block while an over heat unlike a car?. I mean all the hoses are still good and tight. I am just hoping the rings are good and I can save the short block.
I resealed and replaced everything and fired it up. It don't sound good:redface:. I believe that the valves and springs have an issue. It does fire on all 8 it seems so far but is a little rough now.
Here is another concern I have. I hear knocking in the rear is why we took off the outdrive also. Sounds like a mild journal knocing but at an infant stage like marbles as they say.
I did change the FLAPPERS and the new ones open from a hinge on the center I saw. IS THIS MAKING THAT NOISE? I can put my hand on the tubes and feel it banging in there. I don't know if you can feel the exhaust go thru the tubes or not or if this is those revised versions of the flappers banging on the tubes from reversion exhaust.
All in all.... my main concern is did the block hold the water during overheat because it just does according to the book and are the rings good as a result?... and is that weird exhaust sound them darn flappers now or is the rebuild bad now...Can the exaust get that hot to a point of fire but the block stay cool somewhat. From the plumbing I see this seems true to me. I sure would hate to remove and rebuild this again if it is all just in the heads needing redone. I don't see any blowby...very minimal and constant if any and ya relly gotta look too but no puff puff ya know.
What would be the procedure to test the rings?
What would the compression numbers be if they are normal?
What would be a normal variation in the numbers?
I did shave .020 off the heads.
Hey, sorry for the long post and like said..all is appreaciated and thanks a ton.
