2nd boat restore, teak and brass questions

[all yeah boy]

I am going to restore a 1973 Larsen Mercruiser I/O. It needs a complete tear down, floors prob. stingers, and transom. This is the second boat I am restoring in this manner.

My newest idea is to go classy with this old boat. Teak and brass. I was thinking about putting teak hardwood floors down. Any thougths, comments or experience with using a hardwood floor system in a boat? I am thinking about how to attach it to the stringers, and maybe some sort of texture in the finish so it is not so slippery when wet.

Using teak I hope to avoid rot, although I do keep them covered and bow high when not in use. I don't know much about this wood so please comment!

 

[robthompson66]

Re: 2nd boat restore, teak and brass questions

Covering the boat does wonders! It always amazes me when I walk through my marina and see how many boats that aren't covered up.
Teak is great and naturally very oily wood. It will sand fast so be careful when sanding. A lot of times all it needs is to be scrubbed good with teak brightener and then re oiled. I use teak oil with a mildew/fungus inhibiter and the fully exposed teak on my swim platform lasted about 3/4 of the way through the season without needing any more oil. Just keep up on it and it should stay nice.

 

[all yeah boy]

Re: 2nd boat restore, teak and brass questions

Do you guys think it will be suitable for the entire floor of the boat? My new concerns are splinters in people bare feet, and the general feel of it. Reading some older posts most recommend using an oil and staying away from coating the wood in glass. I guess glassing teak would be quite counter productive since the wood has natural properties that keep it from rotting.

The wood is very affordable from the hardwood floor store, about $5/ sq ft. for 3/4 in. thick and of varying lengths. the boards are pre-treated, according to the supplies web site. I have no idea what that means. It is tongue and grove boards. think this is a good move or should I look for a different supplier?

 

[Capt'n Chris]

Re: 2nd boat restore, teak and brass questions

Keep in mind that the floor of your boat is susceptible to a great amount of moisture, Unless maybe its a very large boat and stays dry. If you are thinking of adhering the teak, or any other wood for that matter, you will have two very different substrates (your glass and the wood in this instance), each with its own unique rates of expansion with temperature, moisture and flex working against an adhesive bond. Since your teak's performance in a marine environment is based on its ability to breathe, sealing it is not a good idea. Should you decide to use it; however, the proper adhesive will be an issue. All wood will decay! Any moisture trapped on the underside of any wood flooring, once wetted (and it will get wet), is unlikely to dry before mildew sets in. That will work against the bond and sooner or later separate.

 

[all yeah boy]

Re: 2nd boat restore, teak and brass questions

I agree that the wood floor will basically never dry out. The method of attachment for the flooring would be mechanical and not adhesive. i do wonder if I can find small enough stainless nails to set the boards. As rust is very wanted... I would treat the underside with an oil, but it would only get that 1 treatment cause once it is in, well I am not going rip it up! Given a long enough time frame and moisture exposure rot will set in.

What are some other flooring options? In my first boat that I restored i used plywood with carpet. I know I know not the most acceptable idea, but it is functional, and should last for at least a few years. This time I want to avoid the carpet, have a nice look and good feel on bare feet.

i am glad you folks are providing input, thinking things through prior to implementation is huge!

PS this is not a very large boat, 19 ft, w/ a closed bow and inboard motor..

 

[Capt'n Chris]

Re: 2nd boat restore, teak and brass questions

If you're using mechanical fasteners such as the screws you mentioned, you'll then have a sole full of screw-holes inviting all sorts of leaks. It will make no difference how well-intentioned, or the preparations that you make to avoid leaks, screw-holes will leak and stainless steel will rust. All stainless steel, regardless the of chromium content, when oxygen is present, will rust. If you're focused on something serviceable that looks nice, and is designed for that purpose, look at a product called Flexitteek.

Captain Chris

 

[jonesg]

Re: 2nd boat restore, teak and brass questions

It weighs a ton,

and its a deck.