3.0 I/O Blown Head Gasket

[tobra100]

While Replacing a blown head gasket, I noticed a pitting between #2 & 3 Cyl.
Its not very deep. I could lay a piece of dental floss in it.
The head is in good shape. I cant throw any more money into this money pit. Has anyone used this high temp repair compound from permatex? Or maybe another suggestion?

Thanks Ray.

 

[Don S]

Re: 3.0 I/O Blown Head Gasket

While Replacing a blown head gasket, I noticed a pitting between #2 & 3 Cyl.
Its not very deep. I could lay a piece of dental floss in it.
The head is in good shape. I cant throw any more money into this money pit. Has anyone used this high temp repair compound from permatex? Or maybe another suggestion?

Thanks Ray.

Save your money and get the surface machined properly or you will continue to blow head gaskets.

 

[solar7647]

Re: 3.0 I/O Blown Head Gasket

The problem I see there is the heating between the compound and the metals will be different, if that compound starts to expand faster then the metals it could damage the gasket again, or the block or head. I imagin it's very little by your discription, I would try a very thin layer of perfact seal on the gasket, that plus the proper torque should take care of it. At least that way your first attempt is cheap and worst case your just looking at a new gasket and time and not something that a machine shop has to fix.

 

[tobra100]

Re: 3.0 I/O Blown Head Gasket

thanks

 

[fishrdan]

Re: 3.0 I/O Blown Head Gasket

I cant throw any more money into this money pit.

You know what they say about boats...

Break
Out
Another
Thousand

Pitting in the head or block? Either way, you should have the imperfection machined out or it's going to come back to bite you, maybe not initially, but when you least expect it.

As Don S sez....

Why is there never enough time to do it right the first time,
But always enough time to do it again?

 

[fat fanny]

Re: 3.0 I/O Blown Head Gasket

You could try a boat stone wide enough to go across the entire deck and work it for awhile and you may level it out but the strokes must be even and and complete across the deck it's woth a try if money is tight just remember that area is very thin between the cylinders and removing to much stock from one place could amplify this issue use plenty of light oil and put rags in your cylinders as high as possile then check the deck over a 4 to 5" span with a straight edge and feller gauge to OEM specs. But as Don said machinning is the recomended practice.