3.0l Bogging down

SafetyDude

Recruit
Joined
Jul 26, 2014
Messages
3
I have a new 3.0L long block installed in 2012. Last week I had anchored boat for 2 hrs and when I tried to get boat on plane (approx. 3000 rpm) it started bogging down. All morning long I had it on plane and running it about 3200 rpm with no problems. I thought it may be water in fuel issue so I changed fuel/water filter. Pumped out some fuel from tank and not one bit of water. Took boat out and still bogging down but also backfired once.It runs fine in neutral and ran it on trailer in gear up to 3200, no issues. Engine has less than 100 hrs run time. What should I check next?
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
18,185
What we working on??
Check: the vent hose, the anti-siphon valve, the filter in the carb(might be one there), the coil for overheating, the fuel pump(it might have a filter in the pump),
soft hoses.
Check the dist for advance.Timing?
 
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SafetyDude

Recruit
Joined
Jul 26, 2014
Messages
3
1994 Sunbird Corsair.OMC SX Sterndrive and GM 140 HP 3.0L replacement engine. Vent pipe clear and anti-siphon working good. I will take out filter on carb tomorrow. Hoses are good as I replaced most of them when I installed new engine. Would loss of power (bogging)while trying to get on plane be a timing issue if it runs fine when not in gear or on trailer? It seems like power loss only happens under a load but runs ok up to about 3k rpms.
 

markboutros

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 12, 2012
Messages
36
im having the same issue with my 1977 OMC stringer with a ford 302, still need to check the gas for water and the filter that goes into the Holley carb
any other suggestions?
 

vinnie1234

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 7, 2014
Messages
161
It is important to clarify if this is a backfire or a misfire. Backfire leads you to fuel first and misfire leads you to ignition first.

A lean fuel mixture takes longer to burn and therefore causes a backfire. Running lean will cause a loss in power and it will also cause a rise in temperature as it burns hotter, which you might confirm by looking at your temp guage.

A misfire can be caused by water in the fuel, low ignition voltage/poor ignition system performance - too rich fuel mixture - and a few other things that we don't need to think about yet.

If this was my boat, I would whip out a spark plug and see what it looks like. If it is carbon fouled (black powdery) or wet - look at the ignition system. If coil voltage, points dwell, wires, plugs & timing all check out then turn your attention to the carb.

Take off the top cover and look in the bottom of the float bowl for water, verify float level height and give it a good clean with carb cleaner. Also, while you are in there take a look at the float needle tip and see that it is in good shape. If you make a float adjustment then reset the idle pilot screws 1.5 to 2 turns, then tune at operating temperature.

If the plugs looks normal or maybe a little lean but are dry, focus on fuel delivery as your ignition system is not likely the culprit.

BTW, you need to run the boat in the "bogging" condition for a couple minutes before you pull the plugs to look at them.
 

SafetyDude

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Joined
Jul 26, 2014
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3
I checked all filters and they are clean. I did also pull plugs and they are dry carbon black color. I will change them and check timing. I can't seem to get engine to bog down while on trailer. It even ran fine up to 3500 rpms with out any issues. I will be taking it out next weekend and I will see if its fixed if not I will look at next step. Thanks for your ideas.
 
Joined
Aug 4, 2014
Messages
12
I have a similar problem on my 1992 Marlin 3.0L HO, if I baby the boat and ease into the throttle than it runs ok, if I put any load on the engine it bogs down, the carb was rebuilt last year for a no staring concern. I replaced my fuel filter and timing is next for me. Also my exhaust seems loud! I will let you know if I figure mine out soon.
 

vinnie1234

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 7, 2014
Messages
161
Before you check timing, check the points contacts and dwell. Also, check for voltage drop between battery and ignition coil. If the coil is staving for voltage, or if the spark is weak from an incorrect dwell setting, this could be your issue. You also need to set dwell before you set timing, as the dwell adjustment changes the timing of the spark.
 
Joined
Aug 4, 2014
Messages
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Well mine was definetly fuel related, I added a fuel additive (I hate fuel additives because of the crazy claims) and filled the tank with fresh 89 octane, she runs like new! I had her out on Saturday and I am a happy boat owner again.
 

HOOKEDONSONICS

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Joined
Sep 13, 2010
Messages
3
Don't be fooled by the anti-siphon check valve like I was. I'm not saying that this is the problem you are having. The valve has a spring loaded ball inside and when the motor is off, the spring pushed the ball to the closed position (tank side). When the motor is running, the suction from the fuel pump pulls the ball open (away from the tank) to allow fuel flow. Over time, the spring becomes weak and on hard / full throttle the fuel pump has more suction causing the spring to fail allowing the ball to close the valve on the opposit side (carb. Side) which shuts off fuel supply. The valve looks like a hose barbed fitting. To test it, take it off, knock the ball and spring out, reinstall. Or just get a $2 barbed fitting from home depot / lowes and go for a test run.
 
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