Re: 383 stroker will it work?????
Running an alpha drive... on a LIGHT boat
I snapped a lower drive shaft with a v-6...
"threw" a driveshaft / rear yoke behind a 383 (lost c-clip under power? couldn't tell from what was left after)...
have burnt up one set of upper gears with a 383...
Have several trashed alpha drives in the shop.
putting an alpha ss on this weekend and have a set of hardened, cryo-treated gears and bearings to put in once happy with set-up...
The other thing to consider is that for the cost of a bravo conversion, you can break and replace an alpha upper or lower half a dozen times.
heat is a potential issue, but running the exhaust through hull instead of through the drive can make a big difference there. The primary cause of drive failure is lack of propper maintenence - in any situation! I'm pretty sure that the burnt gears above really resulted from a leak.. lube out and / or water in.
the biggest issue is that with fairly small gears and bearings, not a very stiff housing relative to the horsepower / torque of a big block or stroked small block, and virtually zero lubrication circulation, an alpha type drive is a pretty much a consumable once you start pushing over 350 horsepower - especially if you've got a good bit of torque like a 383 will have.
the higher the gear ratio (more mechanical reduction, ie 1.81), the faster the boat will be so long as you don't go over 30 or so pitch props. With higher gear ratios, more of the torque loading is transfered to the lower gears (reduction is in the upper). The lower the gear ratio (less mechanical reduction, lower pitch props), the less torque loading the drive will see overall, however, the heavier torque loading will be on the upper gears... which more often go south under power than the lower gears. I have a feeling that this is why the 1.47 gear ratio is the standard gear for alpha drives behind v-8's. You can also get heavy duty gears for 1.5 and 1.32 ratios. as with any gear set-up cryo-treating them and the bearings will reduce friction and wear and help contact point heat issues.
Change and check lube often, use good synthetic lube. I've been running merc synthetic lube - good stuff, but am switching to redline heavy duty shockproof lube (solid suspension lube).
no matter what you do, if you stiff-arm the throttle out of the hole on a heavy boat (any boat), sooner or later you'll have a drive full of bits of metal and broken gears....
bottom line is it'll live... but keep a spare drive, you may need it.
ps. SEI will deliver gauranteed 2-day for an additional 70...