4.3 Alpha 1 Gen 2 - propeller spins in neutral only after reverse?

[ShoalSurvivor]

This is an obvious safety issue!

In the water lately, the propeller continued to reverse after shifting from reverse to neutral. Forward to neutral seems fine.
I tested this quickly in the driveway with muffs to verify, and it operated perfectly.

​Is this a sign of an aging lower unit?
Any reason it would happen only in the water?

thank you!

original engine SN: L332123 replaced with: 2004 Mercruiser 4.3L 225hp 4bbl Quicksilver repower SN: 90004747 (#807736R11 / 03252004)
Alpha 1 Gen II - Transom: 0L517680 Drive: 0L192679 1.62 R (1.81R scratched on top) original drive may have been SN: L40356

 

[Fun Times]

Sounds like you'll want to go through the two shift cable adjustments to see if either one is/seems out of adjustment plus to see if you can get it working too. If not you may need a new shift cable due to possibly stretched/worn-out, sticking, etc.... If the adjustments don't appear close then there could be an issue either inside the bell housing such as corrosion from leaking shift shaft seals, cable not seated correctly, bent shift shafts, etc..

With the stern drive installed you'll need to follow Pages 89 - 94 of 137 pages of info.... If the drive becomes not installed start on page 67. http://www.boatfix.com/merc/Install/gas/86017211.pdf

Here is a very good video by iboats forum member/Moderator achris of how to adjust the shift cables, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-s_t...ature=youtu.be

Now should a cable adjustment, new cables not seem to help and nothing seems bent, broke or corroded then there could be an issue within the lower gear case housing with the shift spool assembly and here is a video how to test for that should the need arise. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bTmmH_9Ww58

The shift spool inside the lower gear case will be item number 41, http://www.iboats.com/Gear-Housing-...218110--session_id.643071994--view_id.1693600

Full parts guide for serial number 0L192679, (1.62:1)
http://www.iboats.com/ALPHA-ONE-GEN-...iew_id.1693575

0L403563 is a 1.81:1 Gear Raito which uses the same stern drive parts guide link above.

 

[stonyloam]

If your shift interupt switch is not working properly it will difficult to shift from reverse (or forward for that matter) WHILE IN THE WATER. As yuo move the control to N the cable puts pressure on the switch and shorts the coil to ground causing the engine to stumble releasing the pressure on the undercut gears, letting the outdrive slip out of gear. Out of the water there is no pressure on the gears so it will slip into N easily. Sounds like this may be what you are seeing. A cable adjustment may help.

 

[ShoalSurvivor]

Thanks for the info. Sounds like and I hope it is what Terry describes. Will try a cable adjustment.

 

[ShoalSurvivor]

Step 1 - fail: Shift cable play is 1 5/8" (well in excess of 9/16" max). So, I think i need to run the spool test to determine of the problem is upper or lower. I saw the video, any will attempt, but am looking for more info.

Is this amount of play indicative of anything common? i.e. clutch dog wear?

 

[ShoalSurvivor]

Found the boatinfo docs with details on running spool test. Seems that is the next step recommended for excess shift cable play.

I'm confused as to where the play comes, but if i've got to remove the drive to test further, I should probably plan to do the drive maintenance as well. I was hoping to push that until end of the season. I was also considering replacing bellows if needed, etc. this year, and maybe fixing trim position senders. Yikes.. don't want to do all of that now!

I'm sure this cable is the original. Is 16 years a no-brainer.. install a new one?
if so, do i install a new one, then run the spool test?
I haven't tested the throttle cable yet. should that be replaced at the same time?

I can shift into and out of forward, into reverse and out... that all seems smooth. I think I would feel if there was a kink or corrosion.

Thanks!

 

[ShoalSurvivor]

Does excessive shift cable play indicate something specific?

 

[ShoalSurvivor]

I pulled the drive. Everything inside is clean and greased... no corrosion or kinked cables. I ran the spool test and got 6 deg, which indicates:


"Problem is with the drive unit shift cable, upper shift shaft assembly and lever assembly"

question: how do i know if the cable need to be replaced? It does not seem worn in any way.

can someone send me a link to the service manual for this? thanks!

 

[ShoalSurvivor]

I'm stumped. I don't know where the play is coming from, and I don't know if I should just try changing the shift cable.

When i initially tested the shift cable with the drive installed, there was 1 5/8" play (out of spec). So i pulled the drive and ran the spool test - 6 degrees. The shift shaft barely moves while I have counter clockwise pressure on the prop. If I rotate it to reverse and lock the hub the other way, the shift shaft moves to about 50 degrees.

The cable and slide all seem to be ok.

The only play that i can see occurring in the shift cable is how much the upper shift shaft assembly rotates, and hove far the lever slides back and forth.

Please help -thanks!!!

 

[stonyloam]

Did you have the outdrive off before the problem occurred? Check the roller under the upper shift shaft lever to make sure that it is held properly between the two arms of the shift slide. If the roller is not properly captured by the slide the lever will not be rotated CCW when the slide moves forward. Just a long shot guess.

 

[ShoalSurvivor]

Is there a way to tell if the upper shift shaft is bent? Where should the slide engage when the shaft link to the upper shift shaft assembly is rotated in the forward position?

 

[ShoalSurvivor]

Did you have the outdrive off before the problem occurred? Check the roller under the upper shift shaft lever to make sure that it is held properly between the two arms of the shift slide. If the roller is not properly captured by the slide the lever will not be rotated CCW when the slide moves forward. Just a long shot guess.

Last year for service. It's. Been operating well for at least a year

 

[ShoalSurvivor]

NEW TITLE: DO I NEED THE DOOHICKY NEXT TO THE WHATCHAMACALLIT?

I'm in the process of replacing the lower shift cable, and believe I popped the shift cable insert
(part 14706 (#16) on https://www.boats.net/catalog/mercu...cat-90-81818391/transom-plate-and-shift-cable) out of the transom. It's a plastic insert as appears to "snap" onto the transom with the shift cable running through it.

I have figured out how to remove/install and route the cable - it's stiff and tough, but can be looped and guided pretty easily with a wire.

Problem is that I cannot get this insert back into the transom. there is no space for human fingers to push it into place from the inside, or hold it when feeding the cable through.

Option A:
leave it off. Its not a rubber seal. its designed to offer protection to the cable, but once cable is installed, it should be ok
(or - is this just impending disastrous wear on the cable)

Option B:
Remove the cable. Feed a string/wire through the transom, tie a knot with a washer and attempt to "pull" it into place from the outside, then remove, grease liberally, and hope I don't keep popping it out.
(or is this just a futile attempt to fix without removing the engine?)

Another question: is bellows adhesive really required for the shift cable bellows? I have been able to install and remove that reliably with flex tools. seems securely attached. and, should I use the provided clip for the other end of the bellows, or use zip-ties as I've seen others do?

thanks!

signed,
- guy who wishes he had really long thing fingers

 

[Fun Times]

See if any of following tips are helpful from a past topic regarding the insert,
https://forums.iboats.com/forum/eng...sert-installation-help-from-inside-or-outside

 

[achris]

No adhesive on shift cable bellows!

The knot in the rope to pull the insert into place is the one I would be trying...

Chris.

 

[ShoalSurvivor]

Thanks! That's what I'll do.

 

[achris]

And I use either a doubled over standard zip tie, or a single Merc 'fuel line' cable tie.They are a special tie designed to seal properly on a round object. A standard tie will pinch up at the join, and create a possible leak point. See image below, note the end with the 'ears'... They are what creates the 'full circle' seal.

 

[ShoalSurvivor]

Thanks. I'll grab a Merc fuel line. Hard to imagine how the previous clamp would have maintained water seal.

I just pulled the cable and will attempt to pul the insert through.

thanks for your help and the pointer to the other thread. (I shoulda looked harder)

 

[achris]

Don't over tighten the cable tie. The shift cable must still be able to slide inside the end of the bellows...
​​​​​

 

[ShoalSurvivor]

Don't over tighten the cable tie. The shift cable must still be able to slide inside the end of the bellows...
​​​​​

Isn't that why the bellows is flexible? seems it would be hard to maintain movement and seal.