The following are all new
At that point I replaced the housing, mounting plate and yet another impeller, same issue.
Boat was run in salt water for 8 years and the outdrive has the corrosion to prove it so I figured outdrive seals. Replaced all of the listed outdrive bits and it good on flush port but overheats idling in the lake. Interestingly it did not destroy the impeller, still looks new.
So I ran a compression test, all cylinders pump up the same and reach the same pressure after 4 strokes (170psi)
I removed the thermostat, verified steam hole was clear and tested it in a sauce pan on the stove (opened at 160ish, did achieve full travel)
I rigged up a way to pressure test the entire cooling system - blocked off the outdrive inlet, removed the exhaust elbows and sealed the riser water outlet, removed the impeller, put an air line on the flush port via a garden hose to 1/4 compression adapter. My exhaust blockoff wasnt perfect but I was able to maintain the 10psi I set the regulator to and soap all connections. No leaks.
I finally put a rubber water trough under the outdrive, filled it with water, disconnected the seawater hose from the thermostat and fired it up... No water.
How does a new impeller and housing not draw water?
Any ideas?
- long block
- circulation pump
- thermostat
- seawater impeller, housing, o-ring, backplate
- outdrive gaskets (upper to lower, upper to gimbal)
- transom to outdrive water tube
- transom water neck
- heat exchanger and hose to transom
- bellows, bearing
At that point I replaced the housing, mounting plate and yet another impeller, same issue.
Boat was run in salt water for 8 years and the outdrive has the corrosion to prove it so I figured outdrive seals. Replaced all of the listed outdrive bits and it good on flush port but overheats idling in the lake. Interestingly it did not destroy the impeller, still looks new.
So I ran a compression test, all cylinders pump up the same and reach the same pressure after 4 strokes (170psi)
I removed the thermostat, verified steam hole was clear and tested it in a sauce pan on the stove (opened at 160ish, did achieve full travel)
I rigged up a way to pressure test the entire cooling system - blocked off the outdrive inlet, removed the exhaust elbows and sealed the riser water outlet, removed the impeller, put an air line on the flush port via a garden hose to 1/4 compression adapter. My exhaust blockoff wasnt perfect but I was able to maintain the 10psi I set the regulator to and soap all connections. No leaks.
I finally put a rubber water trough under the outdrive, filled it with water, disconnected the seawater hose from the thermostat and fired it up... No water.
How does a new impeller and housing not draw water?
Any ideas?