4.3 Rebuild

[Rick Stephens]

Lift the drive while connected to one ram, and push in on the other. They will equalize.

 

[alldodge]

Extend the cylinders the short one will go out. You can then tep it back down until the pin goes in. Can jump the relays at the pump. Top one is up (Blue/white) and lower in down (green/white)

Use 10W30 for power trim and Dexron trans fluid for power steering

 

[gergAlicious]

Many MANY thanks AllDodge!!!

I just got through studying the trim / tilt circuitry. My theory was to disconnect the bullet plugs up near the switch and jumper the harness there. Red to either blue or green to see if the motor runs. Same test as jumping at the solenoids I suppose, just including most of the harness but not the actual switch. I’ll work my way to the solenoids from there. Actually, first test would be to verify 12V in towards the switch. I ‘think’ I’m on the right track there. Also understand there is a limit switch that may be bad, and see how to temporarily bypass it to test.

Even bigher though is Dexron for the power steering. SeaStar seems to put the fear in all about using their $33/quart fluid (locally) - but I figured there was a suitable substitute.

Again - THANKS!!!!

 

[Lou C]

Could be the trim switch in the remote control or a broken wire in the handle

 

[gergAlicious]

OK - I figured it out. In order of what I did:

• Tested for 12VDC going towards thumb switch. GOOD
• Jumped red to blue and or green - Nothing happened
• Tested thumb switch for continuity up and down - GOOD
• On a whim tested for ground continuity between pump body and battery ground - BAD
  • I found that I missed hooking up the ground lead to the battery on install
• Connected ground and switch - worked in down, but not up.
  • Suspected bad limiter switch, but could hear solenoid activating
• Bypassed limiter switch and tested up - BAD
• Jumped up circuit straight to pump - GOOD
• After moving it some it now works in up and down.

I believe I have a bad solenoid. Would it even make noise if the limiter switch was bad?

Anyhow, I was able to get the OD hooked up to the rams. Even in the fully extended range, then backing off till they reached the pin bore, one was slightly off from the other - original issue.

So I got the pin started on the starboard side, then slowly jacked the foot up till the other hole aligned - it was only off by ~1/16" or less, did not have to jack the foot much at all - really negligible.

So I am thinking solenoid issue. And that is likely why the PO thought he had a bad thumb switch.

Now - thankfully - I am off to get some DEXRON that does NOT cost $33 a quart nthego:

 

[alldodge]

If you bypass the trim limit (jump 2 wires together) then it should go up, if it doesn't then its another connection or the solenoid

 

[gergAlicious]

That is what I thought. It did not go up when bypassed. And, I could hear the solenoid 'clicking' before and after bypassing.

So I think either the solenoid id activating, but not passing voltage, OR there is a bad connection TO the solenoid.

If the limiter was bad and not allowing activation, I would NOT expect to hear the solenoid click. That how it is intended to work? Or would it click, but simply not pass voltage due to an open on the limiter circuit?

 

[alldodge]

The limiter is just a switch (on/off), and if it was bad, out of adjustment or drive has reached the preset limit it disconnects power to the relay coil, so no click will be heard. If bypassed as you did you should hear a click and motor should run

 

[gergAlicious]

Perfect. That helps a lot.

So, in my testing, bypassed or not, - when the tilt was NOT working (after I connected the ground wire), I could hear the solenoid clicking.

Tells me the issue is at the solenoid / connections etc.

Thanks AllDodge!!

 

[gergAlicious]

All fluids topped. Oil looks spotless & clean. Our baby cranks at the bump of the key!!! VERY excited.

Taking it out for a test run this afternoon. lane:

 

[gergAlicious]

Well she did just fine! Temps stayed down, oil pressure 40lbs at idle, ~60lbs running. Oil looks perfect!!

Put about 45+ minutes of running at ~4k on average. Ran it up to about 4600 at one point.

Man - it jumps on plane now compared to before. That timing was a huge improvement!!!

Running up and down the Ouachita River in Monroe, La.

Time to put the interior back in and quiet this thing down!! eace:

 

[gergAlicious]

So I was second guessing my timing method previously and I wanted to verify all before I put the seat in and make things harder to get to.

This 4.3 does not have a timing tape on the balancer (as I have read many do not). I did not order the tape suggested - but can - work got busy this week.

Here is how I originally timed it. All in Base Timing Mode also.

I put the TDC mark on the balancer inline with the indention on the timing cover. Then I rotated the engine 350* with a degree torque wrench. I marked the balancer with a paint mark inline at the timing cover indention. My mind tells me this is 10* BTDC.

Cranked engine and timed it till the paint mark lined up with the indention on the timing cover. I made NO adjustments to the gun timing offset.

Boat ran like it never did before. Today it cranked up instantly. Again, she never did that before either.

Timing paint mark is still inline with the mark on timing cover.

Then I decided to use the offset on my gun. I set it to 10*. I 'believe' this should move the TDC line into alignment with the cover mark. I read a thread here somewhere that these 4.3s with only a line and a pointer are done this way.

Well, my gun moved the TDC line that way, but not inline. I had to go to about 17.5* before the line in the balancer was aligned with the pointer on the timing cover.

Just looking for feedback - I thought my original method worked, boat runs great, temps down, but I don't want to over advance it.

Reasons that if I set the gun to 10* and time it till the TDC line is in alignment with the marker I am good?

 

[gergAlicious]

Got a better angle on looking at it. Wasn't as advanced as I stated above. I did 10* on the gun, lined up the balancer line with the notch on the cover. I was about 3* too far advanced (maybe 2*).

 

[alldodge]

Might be easier to mark the balancer using math, and use a tape measure and marking pin

If you have an 8 inch balancer, then the Circumference (C) equals 25.132 inches

C=Pi (3.1415) x Diameter (8)

360 degrees / 25 inches = 14.4 degrees per inch (25.4mm)

25 inch = 635 mm

1.76mm per degree

 

[gergAlicious]

Thanks AllDodge.

On another note, I put plenty of spline grease on the OD shaft before install. I figure a lot of it scraped off on install. I had packed all the valleys with grease.

Last night I ‘tried’ to get to the grease zerk on the coupler. Man, it must take a Ninja!! Barring actually getting to it, I can hardly SEE the coupler tip.

This normal??

 

[alldodge]

This normal??

Yep its normal, its a boat - ound: :facepalm: :facepalm:

I pull the drive every year, and grease it with a long stick if it starts looking dry, otherwise just a little new grease on the spline before it goes back in

One mechanic had almost 20 different grease guns and all with different coupler ends for different boat grease locations

 

[gergAlicious]

Hahahah. Figured as much!!!

I’ll plan on doing the same with my out drive. Honestly, the boat was new to us for only one season. Then it got laid up. I am ready to get on board with all the regular maintenance required.

 

[gergAlicious]

So after trying every mildew product we had, some that came with the boat, and every home brew we could google, we found Marine 31. Holy Smokes!!! I can’t remember a real life ‘miracle product’ ever. This stuff is unreal. The other stuff / remedies didn’t even phase our infection. Haha.

My my wife went through the boat with it and we are doing the cover today. I am speechless at its effectiveness.

New radio shows up Tuesday. Now I just need the Army Corps to raise the river level back up!!!!