4.3GL PBYC not reaching operating temperature and starboard exhaust riser overheating

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Jul 12, 2017
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i got it out but next time i think i need to coat it with something, maybe permatex aviation gasket or silver anti-seize?
 

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Joined
Jul 12, 2017
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64
i do have one other question, i replaced that thermostat after the impeller would have blown out (i unfortunately did not see the blockage at that time), so why do you think the engine would not have made it to operating temperature?
 

Lou C

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The For the plug, you can coat the threads with Permatex Aviation or OMC/Evinrude gasket sealer Or Mercury Perfect seal the last 2 are the best for these applications and are really the same product. The Permatex works fine for that too. I use either the Permatex or the OMC stuff depending on what I have at the time. They don’t get hard and prevent corrosion. Very good on thermostat housing bolts and gasket, all the engine and manifold drain plugs and bolts that go into the outdrive as well.
As far as the engine not warming up, it is usually some piece of rust, sand or even a bit of an impeller keeping it slightly open. For the engine to warm up it has to be able to close to keep hot water in the block/heads & intake manifold. I’ve had this usually every 2 years or so . The only permanent solution is a closed cooling system because that prevents internal engine rust. On
mine every time this happens it’s a tiny piece of rust from inside the engine. If you drain out the water when you change the stat next time wipe out the inside of the intake manifold I bet you’ll
see some flaking rust there!
 

Lou C

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i am very grateful for all your help. is there some way i can show my gratitude? a gift or something?

It’s my pleasure to help out, just let us all know what fixed the problem at hand, that knowledge is the best reward!
 
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i think i can safely say those suggestions fixed the issues i was having with my boat. I tested it on my driveway with muffs as I couldn't get to the lake this weekend.

It now comes up to operating temperature (which is the first time i have ever seen that since i bought the boat 3 years ago) and both the exhaust elbows are ok to touch. I could keep my hands on the elbows all day. I am sure that once I get it on the lake (hopefully next weekend) i will see the same result.

thanks so much Lou, i am very grateful for your help
 
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It took me this long to get it on the lake again. Poor weather due to lots of wind. Wanted to reiterate that the exhaust elbows are fine. I had it at WOT and afterwards I could keep my hands on the elbows all day.

Today the water was 14.5 degrees Celsius (58.1 degrees Fahrenheit) and the engine would run just below 100 degrees Fahrenheit when the boat was planing . It would come up to 175 degrees Fahrenheit if I was not planing (going pretty slow). I don’t know if this is normal or not. Just hoping to get your thoughts on the matter! I was expecting it to run at 175 degrees Fahrenheit.
 

Lou C

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It really should run from 160-175 normally. If it’s still running too cool they’re might still be some rust or sand keeping the stat from closing. I always test stats in a bit of hot water and a radiator thermometer to make sure they open and close at the right temps. Sounds like it’s still running too cool...
 

Lou C

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Ok you are going to laugh but this method sometimes works...get it to the point where the stat is open it will have to be between 165-175 or so. Then take a small hammer and gently tap on the top of the stat housing with it. The vibrations created sometimes will dislodge a piece of rust that can be keeping it from closing. I’ve done this with success a few times. Sounds crazy but it works.
 
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haha, i will definitely try it. I took it all apart tonight and much confusion ensued. it was totally closed, unlike the old one where I could see the rust holding it open. I held it up against the sun and could not see any light in between. I put it in hot water on the stove with my digital thermometer and it starts opening around 170. It was open alot by the time it reached 180. It also says 160 on it so i am at least certain i got the right one.

but next time i will take the rubber mallet to it. do you think a rubber mallet would create enough of a vibration? otherwise i guess i will tap gently with a carpenters or ball peen.
 

Lou C

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Need a metal hammer. I’d check the temp of the intake manifold with an IR temp gun right under the stat housing. This area usually reads about 10* less than the dash gauge. So if the gauge says 160 that area should read 150. This way you can check if your gauge is consistently accurate.
 
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