4.3GL PWTR longblock source

[Saline Marina]

Hi All

I managed to kill my motor over the winter, not sure exactly what I did wrong, all brass plugs were out, all the holes rodded out to promote waterflow. First trip out this spring I assumed all is well and was out on the first lake trip when I opened the engine cover to find the entire engine coated in MilkShake. Idled back to shore with no more output from the PCV tube but I'm certain the oil side and water side of the engine are compromised. Interesting I could not tell any difference in the operation of the motor but I feel certain I would have spun a bearing at some point.

I'm in the process of pulling the drive and pulling the motor, seems like its worth a basic water-side pressure test with the oil pan off just to confirm, once the motor is on the stand.

But I'm 99% sure that a longblock is required. My gut tells me to get a 99 or 00 reman 4.3 longblock for an S-10 pickup truck, pull the galvanized freeze plugs and install brass, then switch all the covers and dress over. I've swapped motors in trucks twice following most of above with 100k success both times, so I feel like I have the skill to do that part of the job.

Wanted to solicit feedback on whether my engine sourcing plan will work and if the standard "reman 4.3 truck engine" (with warranty) is going to be proper. I feel certain I will have more questions as I go but wanted to get this part moving. We have a family lake trip in 1 month, so now I have reality TV drama to go with it....

Thanks!

(edit, this is in a Four Winns 170 if it matters)

 

[bruceb58]

Did you drain the intake manifold? There is a plug on it as well. If you didn't, you might just need an intake manifold.

 

[Saline Marina]

No, I missed that. I would definitely settle for an intake-lower! I suppose I could inspect it as well as out of the boat as in the boat with the Tstat housing removed. The year previous I removed the Tstat housing fully and poured the intake full of RV-antifreeze, letting the excess drain down, which makes more sense as to what I did wrong, because I didn't do that step this winter.

 

[bruceb58]

Just pull the intake while it's in the boat and look at the bottom of it and see if you have a crack.

 

[Sunken Ship]

Sorry to hear. Is your motor carb. or fuel injection?

 

[bruceb58]

Sorry to hear. Is your motor carb. or fuel injection?

GL means carb.

 

[Sunken Ship]

I think-still learning here- the plug Bruce mentioned a bulletin was issued by V/P and is in the Adults only section. I have the same motor (4.3GL PWTR) and also have a cracked block.

I will be rebuilding mine myself. Might see if your local machine shop has a block laying around that is machinable. Machinists do keep them some times to core out for customers, especially this common engine. If the machine shop doesn't have one then I will be off to the junk yard to pull a long block for 175 tax included then take that for a clean and check. Can't find anything on Craigslist. The block is from 96-newer I am told. Your block cast number should (might) be 14099090M. Also, look at the date code, something like "B118", which tells the cast date for the block itself. I think all of my internal parts are going to be good at this point- as yours might be good also.

If you can, could you post an image of your engine? Needing some reference photos for my boat engine.


Please keep us posted.

 

[Sunken Ship]

I made a list of possible donors having this engine block a few days back:

Blazer
Astro
Bravada
Express
Silverado
S10
Jimmy
Safari
Savana
Sierra
Sonoma
Isuzu Hombre (not a mistake)

I would get the cast number and the date off the potential donor engine block and talk to your machinist before committing to a junk yard pull or craigslist engine to ascertain crossover.

 

[bruceb58]

I think the OP needs to see if his intake manifold is cracked before he starts looking at his block.

 

[Saline Marina]

Sorry guys, I've been very busy. Appreciate all the comments. Just got the intake pulled today. Sage advice from BruceB, the intake is indeed cracked along one of the ribs in the water cavity in the center. Ragged rusty edge. I have pics which I will try to upload. Thanks, the fail completely makes sense with my fail to properly drain that cavity, I will be pulling the Tstat housing from now on to pour the cavity full of pink antifreeze while the drain plugs are out.

Next up is replacing the casting. VP is around $550 but I can source the same GM 2-barrel painted intake casting GM 12552422 for around $200 from another source which looks identical from typical faraway internet view. Anything proprietary to the VP part that anyone knows about?

The other issue is getting this dastardly milkshake out of the engine. I'm thinking 3-4 rapid oil + filter changes are going to be necessary once its all re-sealed up.

I marked the distributor base position across to the intake with a paint marker, with care I should be able to transfer that pretty closely. Then marked the "laser line" position of the center pole which was marked on the exhaust riser. Timing light available to confirm once operational. Will update when I'm operational again. Thanks again for the help!

 

[bruceb58]

There is nothing proprietary about the Volvo intake manifold.


http://www.michiganmotorz.com/intake...32_37_132.html

 

[bruceb58]

Timing light available to confirm once operational. Will update when I'm operational again. Thanks again for the help!

Read up on how to set the timing. You will have to put distributor in base timing mode.

 

[Saline Marina]

Here are a couple pics...engine overflooded by milkshake and the intake lower crack





Casting replacement. MichiganMotorz had the best price when one considers the gasket kit is included. Also, 1 day ground shipping from Madison Heights over to me I have been there in person but not worth fighting the traffic right now!

 

[Saline Marina]

Here's where I am striking out. Everything is replaced, engine idles reasonably well without specifically setting timing (from my marks above). Trying to suck out the froth with the Moeller Fluid Extractor but its too viscous. I attempted to pour a couple of quarts of 5W30 el cheapo oil (still API- SN) into it to try to get more oil content and reduce the viscosity. But this is not working. If you are familiar with the fluid extractor it has a hard line that's about 5/16" OD. That line will get "stuck" pointed straight up in the air and eventually will pull free but by the amount collected its obviously not doing what I expected. I'm loath to send any kind of solvent in there. I have tried to warmup the engine by idling it but that hasn't really worked either. Engine is way overfilled as I've probably sucked out 1 quart and put in 4 more. If I open the oil filler cap I can hear the "thrashing" which I think is the crankshaft splashing thru the fill.

I've considered something like ATF or sea-foam cleaner but wondered if anyone had any ideas.

 

[bruceb58]

Why aren't you screwing your pump onto the hose connection on the top of the dipstick tube? Your pump should come with an adapter for that. Volvo owners don't need to do it the way you are doing because the dipstick tube goes down to the drain hole.

 

[Saline Marina]

Sorry if I misinformed. I am using the classic setup of the garden hose fitting on the oil dipstick tube, just like I've changed oil in the past. However the pump/reservoir just won't pull the stuff out thru the adapter tube (or combination of hard tube + flex tube) that connects dipstick to the reservoir. Seems too viscous or sticky. Was looking for a way to reduce the viscosity...safely...

 

[bruceb58]

I am sorry, thought for sure you were sending a hard plastic tube down the dipstick tube since you mention the OD. My pump is basically a garden hose diameter where it pumps to my bucket mounted oil pump.

You might need a different style pump for this task.

Something like this might be better for what you are doing.
http://www.amazon.com/Jabsco-34060-0...r_1_18&sr=8-18

 

[Saline Marina]

Here's an update. I jumped up to the largest dia hose that Moeller supplies, looks to be 3/8" OD. It doesn't exactly fit in the garden hose fitting but I pressed it in and its working, albeit slowly. Pulled about 4Q out, added 3Q more 5W30, idled the engine about 10 mins more and am pumping again. The viscosity is definitely going down. Getting ready to set timing, I think there's a lot of advance as the exhaust discharge water (to my calibrated hand) is a lot cooler than before, so more heat being kept in the combustion chamber. I ordered a base-timing kit from ebay but have a stash of Delcotronics weatherpacks somewhere and might be able to advance my own timing on this endeavor. Looks like its going to take a couple more oil changes than I planned...