4.3GXi-J is hard starting, completely out of ideas

_sadpanda

Cadet
Joined
Jul 6, 2016
Messages
27
I am the only owner of the boat, motor is 2008 Penta GXi-J 4.3L I was living in SC at the time so lots of use/hours early on. In 2009 I preemptively performed the fuel pump module paint strip.
I moved back north and botched winterization in 2015 resulting in a cracked block. I replaced with reman short block along with new:
  • flow matched injectors
  • fuel filter
  • cap/rotor/plugs/wires
  • power steering cooler
  • thermostat
After sorting out some overheating issues (worn seawater pump housing) everything was great until last month. I was on plane, had sudden loss of power/no start. Emptied/back flushed fuel filter thinking bad gas. Ran good enough to get me back to the dock. I changed filter but was getting no-start.

So, I checked fuel pressure - fuel rail was only showing 20psi with key on - Replaced both fuel pumps.

Now instead of no start, I had hard start - required half throttle to get going but seemed ok once it was running. This did seem temperature related and engine was now very rich/leaving soot all over the transom. So....
  • Probed/verified zero ohms between IAC/TPS/IAT/MAP connectors and ECM pins
  • Verified thermostat with with DMM and thermometer/pot of water on stove
  • Replaced IAC (it was a bit noisy with key-on / reconnecting battery)
  • Removed/inspected/cleaned fuel pressure regulator, no change. Replaced with new, just in case.
  • Pulled plugs... All were equally fouled with soot. Replaced
  • Verified knock sensor function with DMM / rapping on manifold
  • Verified TPS at idle/full throttle, scanned with a basic J1939 and there did seem to be a dead spot just off idle, Replaced
  • Replaced IAT/MAP sensor
  • Sudo verified CKP with digital timing light reading vs. reported rpm with J1939
While doing that, noticed an occasional miss (couldn't hear it/feel it but timing light would strobe funny, J1939 scanner refresh rate too slow to catch it) so...

I Pulled cap, found some corrosion on pins though no real wear (not enough hours) so I simply cleaned/reinstalled. Miss was gone and I was confident I found all of the potential causes.

Everything seemed sorted and fixed- cold start it fired right up and settled into idle. Let it get up to temperature, shut it down, restart, same thing - perfect. Took it out to the lake, fired right up cold. Drove for 20 min, no stumbles/problems coming off idle/going full throttle etc... I stopped and anchored, still getting a ton of soot on the transom. Hung out for 90 min, went to fire up (essentially cold by now) and no start. Had to give part throttle.

I'm going to pull plugs, double check base timing. The only things left to replace are CKP/CMP/ignition module/coil. No warnings so I'm assuming manifold temp switches are good. Fresh premium fuel. The only thing I can think of that would command rich running that I've not replaced is apparently the ECM will enrich if it senses low battery voltage. Dash gauge and DMM showing 14v but the J1939 doesnt show battery voltage.

The scanner also does not show knock/advance/inject pulse width or anything else that might useful. It does show estimated gal/hr and that does seem elevated compared to charts I've seen online.

Anyone have a similar issue / ideas on a fix?
 

Fun Times

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
May 16, 2009
Messages
9,249
In reading I didn't notice where you re-checked fuel pressure after your fuel rail was only showing 20psi with key on - Replaced both fuel pumps. Now instead of no start, I had hard start.

Re-check fuel pressure both on the low psi side and the high side. You'll want to ensure you're now not having to high of pressure at both pumps...Saw you checked psi at the rail but how about at the pump itself?

Pump part number 3594444, See the small cap on the pump in the follwing photo's? check there too, https://www.ebay.com/itm/282699294932?_skw=3594444&epid=4007460376&itmmeta=01K6BFR8MSZA4X2ZQV0ET0XK6A&hash=item41d230e8d4:g:SWwAAOSwNPVZ4KlG&itmprp=enc:AQAKAAAA4FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1diXxq/lTdDXndasbFigj+5MIx+LDpm/kUbbNxBKjmTvMGBqqWWj1o6Skw8ycNtk/KLKF77S6rIeK1ZM3g21OKBad1WbfEEAlXyRyMd0peike11p6IUGjJ3V5/uF/lRTRrg8IQb8Yv7GNCi+Ve3jtjSuJjrP1T8ViD94x3v8GDKHdA4z8ZeaUctiTlrO4EpH+AwXZPt5EdqdQnOScPXV0N6+Bc3TfXf0hA3MT02hCjOvumW8gmvPXX/pvwv0oL27SWgYCxzMQ/Y8iPDRktBg8Oy|tkp:BFBMyIrh77Jm

Make sure the fuel regulator vacuum line doesn't have fuel flowing out.

If fuel psi checks out probably should just replace the distributor cap and spark plugs too soon because those caps aren't fully trustworthy, and the plugs are compromised now... Clean the plugs until you know you got the running rich figured out.

If the plugs are getting fuel fouled that quickly, it's most likely fuel psi or system related and if not, then more so often it was a MAP sensor issue vs other sensors causing that much transom soot.

 
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