4 NewTard questions

[ibizian]

Re: 4 NewTard questions

not to beat a dead horse, but I still think your issue is that adjustment in the picture. I thought the same thing when I was working on mine. It was doing the exact same thing. the linkage that pushes on the shift lock wont go in all the way because the arm on left that goes to the top is too long. If you move that retaining nut on the long rod down so that the button on the top is higher, I bet your problem will go away.

But then I could be wrong.

good luck

Ok so I went back out and the rod that goes to the stubby knob poking up was free and clear with the drive in neutral and in gear. What do I need to be looking for? I never did find a nut to adjust either tho.

Let me know so I can go back and triple double dog dare me check it. I would love to make it so my wife can shift into reverse as well. Shifting into fwd is easy and smooth. I figured reverse should not be much more difficult but it is.

 

[captmello]

Re: 4 NewTard questions

So if those are drained it is not a problem as the water in that system is replenished as soon as it goes in the lake right?

Ya, as soon as you start the boat in the water the system will be refilled by the raw water pump/impeller.

Here is the nut robjen is refering to. You can see the nut on mine is threaded all the way to the bottom.

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[ibizian]

Re: 4 NewTard questions

Ok, I went back out and found the rod and loosened the nut put it all back together and found to my surprise... It is just the same. Nothing changed and it is still stiff.

I was hoping it was the magic bullet that solved the issue but not to be. Oh well I will keep trying any suggestions you all have and I really do appreciate your help!!

 

[ibizian]

Re: 4 NewTard questions

Ok now for the fun!!! My distributor and coil and wires are on the way. I went over to an electronic system. So my new question for you all is how do I install the distro.
I know there must be some set procedure before I just remove the old one. I have the electronic service manual but I know you guys know more than I will be able to read as far as put this here mark that there and make sure you DON'T DO THIS!!!!

Right??

 

[captmello]

Re: 4 NewTard questions

I'd start over with a new thread.

You'll get better help.

 

[ibizian]

Re: 4 NewTard questions

yes.

follow from intake hose from outdrive through the cooling system.

intake hose to raw water pump, loosen pump cover to drain water. If you don't know when the impeller was changed, you should change it. Every two years on the impeller. Following the raw water pump, the lines go to the heat exchanger. There is a plug on the bottem, you may have to feel for it. after the heat exchanger, the lines go to the oil cooler. There should be a drain on the bottom of that. After the oil cooler, the water flows through the exhaust manifold. There is a plug on the bottom of the manifold to drain that.

And thats it!!!

Take your time the first time. stick a small screwdriver in the drain holes to make sure there is no obstructions.

Good luck.

Okj Here's what I found under the hood!
1 the water pump, self explanatory. Drained

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2 red raw water tank, drained too.

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3 First problem! Copper pipe found a leak. Took it off and discovered low quality repair had broken in the snap freeze! Will need to do a better repair or get a new one. Drained all by itself!

4 Another issue. I do not know what this part is. I assume it is the heat exchanger. It was empty, no water.... Although the copper pipe crack was lower so I assume it leaked it out.

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Did I get everything????

 

[captmello]

Re: 4 NewTard questions

Just to clarify, Red tank that says VOLVO PENTA is just the tank for antifreeze, shouldn't need to drain, but you should check the antifreeze to make sure it is good to -40 below.

Yes, the next tall skinnier tank is the heat exchanger. There is a plug at the bottom that should be drained. It would not drain out the broken pipe.

Another issue. I do not know what this part is. I assume it is the heat exchanger. It was empty, no water.... Although the copper pipe crack was lower so I assume it leaked it out.

That is your exhaust manifold, and yes it may have all drained out the copper tube. Pull the plug anyway for practice.

Hopefully the pipe can be repaired, properly of course with duct tape.


Good job! You'll know this motor inside and out in no time. It's a good durable powertrain. Simple to work on, etc. Don't let anyone tell you different.