470 Crank Pulley Installation - the last half inch

[Rake722]

Hi All, I am putting the pulley back on the block and the last 1/2 inch is getting very stiff.

What kind of rachet is required in terms of length of shaft - is this a job for a strong arm or regular ratchet ?

Im trying to get an idea of how much force is required to get it back on.

Thanks

Rake

 

[Bt Doctur]

What are you using to install it?

 

[Bt Doctur]

 

[Grub54891]

If you use the bolt that holds the pully on, It will strip the threads on the crankshaft. Seen it happen a few times.
Get the installer that BT posted.

 

[Rake722]

I'm using an installer made from 1/2 inch UNF Grade 8 high tensile steel bolt, nut and the washer from the crank bolt.

The threads are beginning to strip.

 

[Scott Danforth]

I'm using an installer made from 1/2 inch UNF Grade 8 high tensile steel bolt, nut and the washer from the crank bolt.

The threads are beginning to strip.

STOP.

GO TO THE AUTO PARTS STORE AND BORROW A CRANK DAMPER INSTALLATION TOOL

now I can stop yelling.

there is a reason crank tools use a really large thread

 

[Rake722]

Just got off the phone to a mercruiser authorised engineer and he said they were taught to freeze the pulley before install.

I've tried to source the correct tool but no one has them here anymore. Ill try freezing, then measure with the caliper and see if it has any effect. Otherwise I need to buy a tool rather than borrow one.

 

[Scott Danforth]

here you go

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...32615-P?searchTerm=balancer+installation+tool

 

[Rake722]

Thanks but i am in the UK and that is one expensive tool.

How about this ?

https://www.workshopping.co.uk/produ...drive/VSE5856/

or

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323421514297

 

[Bt Doctur]

Freezing will shrink it, heating will expand it but may damage the magnets

Best thing is to remove it, inspect for nicks and burrs , remove them by file or stone, grease the pully and reinstall
Those tools will work better with some oil

 

[Rake722]

Pulley is on.

I was using my home made tool incorrectly. I ended up removing the head of the 4 inch 1/2 UNF bolt and then I threaded it in to the crank as far as it would go. I then put the washer on and then a 1/2" UNF nut over the bolt and then cranked it down till the pulley bottomed out.

Job done on £3.0 tools.

Thank you and I hope this helps someone else in the future.

 

[Scott Danforth]

however adding torque to the threads in the crank can strip out the end of the crank

that is why a backup wrench is used on the correct tools, and the thrust washer has a bearing in it.

threads in cast iron are as bad as threads in aluminum