48 SPL idle issues. Throttle cam, idle orifice,

[racerone]

Pushing the key in for 8 seconds is wrong and a waste of 7 seconds of time.-----Push the key in while cranking it over for near instant starting !!

 

[mikeyk101]

I will keep that in mind when I get back to the boat this weekend. But the bigger problem is that at the end of last weekend, when pushing in, I could hear nice solid clicks coming from primer but when I turned the ignition to start, I got nothing at all. No starter noise or anything. I didnt get a chance to look further like as explained. I'm am going to look a little further this weekend at the starter solenoid first and clean up all the connections like I had to do on the ignition switch and test it. Maybe even try a new ground wire from it to the motor block like I saw suggested in another thread. Its a little frustrating when the boat is not right outside and I have to travel 1-1/2 hours to work on it. At least I'm a lot closer to getting it running better than I was last summer...

 

[racerone]

Check the neutral safety switch in the control box.-----Pushing the key in while cranking is part of a correct starting procedure !

 

[mikeyk101]

I do understand that part. I apologize as I may not have been completely describing everything I was doing to start the motor. And you might be on to something because I did also replace the control as the old one had a very loose, sloppy throttle, faded to a light gray, covered in duct tape residue and had seen better days. I found a complete NOS one in perfect condition for about $80 and also bought a new neutral safety switch for it. I will look into that as well. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[mikeyk101]

Check the neutral safety switch in the control box.-----Pushing the key in while cranking is part of a correct starting procedure !

You were absolutely correct. I bypassed the neutral safety switch wiring and connected the lead going to engine directly to the ignition switch and when the key was turned to start, I got spark. I checked resistance at both the ignition switch and other end of neutral switch wiring and got no continuity. I pulled the new control box off and opened it up. I discovered that even though it was a brand new switch, there was a slight bend to the lever which didnt allow the switch to fully release. I fixed the bend, checked it again with the multimeter and this time got continuity. I put it all back together and checked resistance both in neutral and in forward gear and it is now working as it should. More progress...

 

[mikeyk101]

I got a few more things done and the motor seems to be running better than it did last year. I was able to acquire a locator ring so I pulled the flywheel off again and made sure the stator, coil and trigger were all in proper position. I then removed each connector on the solenoid and cleaned up the rings on those including both ends of the ground wire. Now I can tell that the starter is working properly and the solenoid seems to be fine. I finally got a chance to do the link and sync and did everything except for the wide open throttle check. I may give the Joe Reeves method a try but otherwise, I think its finally ready to get out on the water. Now if the weather would only start cooperating.

I do still have to install the new dash but should have that taken care of tomorrow. Fully rewired dash with proper colored wire and in the proper gauge and installed all the new gauges. Wired up the fuse panel under dash, both new positive and ground, again in the proper gauge. Pulled the proper colored wire and gauge for the new bow LED navigation light and LED anchor light. This has been a bit of a chore but I'm hoping the payoff to all this work was worth it...