'49 5 HP Atlas Royal Restoration

[rexlange]

Re: '49 5 HP Atlas Royal Restoration

Yeah, saw that one....pick up only. I'll get in touch with the guy and find out if anyone he knows can ship it (provided I win the bid. Thanks

 

[F_R]

Re: '49 5 HP Atlas Royal Restoration

Yeah, I've made some strap wrenches on special order, but what I make is high quality--far more than you need to work on one little ol' Gale. You can make yourself an El Cheapo that will work. Merely nail a piece of nylon strapping to a piece of 2 x 2 lumber and you've made yourself a special tool.

As for the powerheads, yes they can be rebuilt (pistons & rings, etc.), but taking the side covers off is verboten. I've tried it and regretted it---more than once. Ok, the disclaimer is I haven't tried it with some of the modern sealants on the market. But the gasket and Permatex method was regrettable. I suppose if I had one that really, really needed to come apart, I might try it again with some modern sealants. I never have been able to figure out what OMC used for a sealant.

 

[rexlange]

Re: '49 5 HP Atlas Royal Restoration

I guess the "secret" sealant died with the company. I'm surprised that someone who worked for Gale hasn't shown up on the forum at one time or another. Oh well, from the looks of things there's no need to take the side covers off as long as you can get to the crank, pistons, cylinders from the bottom end. How safe would it be to run the motor if the flywheel cone is expanded (ever so much) if i eliminate the scraping? It doesn't look like it could come off thanks to the recoil plate and the washer on the nut but you're the expert. Somebody mentioned that the flywheel could crack in half...? Ouch! I bet that'd hurt.

I'll make up a strap wrench to use for the flywheel as I'm lookin' for a replacement. In the mean time I just picked up a 6 HP Johnson ('97) to use in the meantime and save the Atlas Royal for when I get a new flywheel. Since most I've seen are in worse shape than mine, they're pretty cheap and very likely much cheaper than to buy than the flywheel alone. We'll see. I would think that parts from a comparable year Buccaneer, Seaking, etc. would cross over but you's have to back me up on that to be sure. Since you guys have Buccaneer's I've been lookin' at those....pretty nice! I found some videos on You Tube and have been watching them run vintage outboards like yours/mine to get a feel for 'em. Very helpful...it helped to see how much water is supposed to slobber out with the exhaust especially and carb adjustment from the lean dial. I presume that with higher rev's a little more water comes out than at slower speeds as that would make sense. I was really impressed when you said that your Gale was faster than a similar Johnson. I wonder why that is?

I'll keep in touch as soon as I have more news and may email you privately if I start to get off topic. Thanks you guys!

 

[smead]

Re: '49 5 HP Atlas Royal Restoration

Hey, I have the same motor as you so I hope you don't mind my tagging along on your thread. I was able to get the flywheel off with a wheel puller. I put the spreaders under the top plate and one twist of the wrench and it popped off. Replace the magneto with one from Ebay as the original had failed. I can get my motor to run, but I am having a problem with carburetor leaking. There are no gaskets. Not entirely sure where the leak is from, but I know for a fact that when I prime it gas in the bowl will come up through the lid center hole where the needle valve protrudes. Again no gaskets so I'm at a loss. Did you experience this or does anyone have a suggestion.

 

[F_R]

Re: '49 5 HP Atlas Royal Restoration

When you prime it, it is SUPPOSED to slop over out the top. That is how it enriches the mixture for a cold startup. "Floods" it, if you will. Ok, Ok, so it is sloppy and messy and not at all "green", but who cared back in those days? Antique motor collectors and restorers still don't care. They run great.

 

[smead]

Re: '49 5 HP Atlas Royal Restoration

Thanks. That explains that. I couldn't see how it would not slop over because of the design. One more thing, what would cause it to continue to leak. The only place that I think the fuel could be coming from is atop the bowl and I'm talking about over night. The float didn't appear to have sunk, but as I recall just a little lack of buoyancy might cause the needle to open and keep gas flowing. I did shut the fuel off with the lower needle valve. I assume it worked. No leaks around the packing. When I ran the motor before all this it did run nice. Lots of smoke too!

 

[F_R]

Re: '49 5 HP Atlas Royal Restoration

Well, of course the float lifts the lower end of the float pin up against the seat in the carb body to shut off the flow of fuel. So, of course the float has to float. And the seat has to be in good condition. Unfortunatly, the seat is not a separate part and cannot be replaced. If it is a matter of leaking over a long period of time, it probably is the best you are going to get.

 

[Tom @ Buzzard Bluff]

Re: '49 5 HP Atlas Royal Restoration

Well, of course the float lifts the lower end of the float pin up against the seat in the carb body to shut off the flow of fuel. So, of course the float has to float. And the seat has to be in good condition. Unfortunatly, the seat is not a separate part and cannot be replaced. If it is a matter of leaking over a long period of time, it probably is the best you are going to get.

Not to forget--------

The fuel shut-off petcock too can be suspect regarding trash that prevents fully seating or a defective seat.

 

[smead]

Re: '49 5 HP Atlas Royal Restoration

Good point. I'll be sure to check and clean the shut off. The packing seemed fine as it didn't leak through the outside, but I didn't check the seat. I have shellaced the cork float with gasket shellac. I hope it doesn't make the float too heavy. It was the only stuff available at the auto parts store. If a new float is needed and a needle valve any suggestions as to where they be had?

 

[Tom @ Buzzard Bluff]

Re: '49 5 HP Atlas Royal Restoration

Good point. I'll be sure to check and clean the shut off. The packing seemed fine as it didn't leak through the outside, but I didn't check the seat. I have shellaced the cork float with gasket shellac. I hope it doesn't make the float too heavy. It was the only stuff available at the auto parts store. If a new float is needed and a needle valve any suggestions as to where they be had?

A float is easy to make from a hardware store cork or the Mercury float available from Sierra thru numerous outlets such as NAPA or O'Reilly auto supply houses under P/N 18-7208 is easily adapted---many preferring it.

If you're asking about the float needle I have had reasonable success lapping them to the seat with a VERY mild abrasive like Mothers Mag & Wheel polish. On the other hand others have merely reported ruining them when attempting it. So be very aware that the job is fraught with hazard to both needle & carb body! If you can find a good carb you'd be ahead of the game.