5.0 mpi losing power after warm up

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
71,090
Ayuh,..... Ask yer Machinist,..... it varies from place to place, 'n shop to shop, 'n how well yer Machinist likes you,.....
 

highfigh

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Sep 1, 2018
Messages
39
I had the lean condition last fall when I bought the boat. Bad fuel clogging the filter and a completely blocked fuel tank vent. Ive only owned the boat since october and it didnt run well then. Just trying to track down the issues by process of elimination and this is where it has led me. I do not know the real history of this motor and am certain I was lied to about the running condition. The price on the boat was good enough that I would have bought it knowing this issue but its frustrating to have to figure it all out from scratch. The other heads available were from a 98 5.0 carbed engine. Ill get these off and decide what to do from there. Thanks for the help. Ill report back after i get them off.

It's probably less expensive to have the heads 'freshened up' than to buy used ones- you would still need to make sure those are in good shape, anyway. Neither is a particularly cheap way to go, but if the valves, seats and seals are replaced, it's a good way to KNOW the condition of the heads, especially if you go all the way and have them magnafluxed and shaved a bit. I had to have a head repaired and it came back like new- a used one would have been only about 20% less and it would still need work.

Do you have a way to run diagnostics on an injected engine? If not, don't run it hard until you have the data that's needed.
 

highfigh

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Sep 1, 2018
Messages
39
I had the lean condition last fall when I bought the boat. Bad fuel clogging the filter and a completely blocked fuel tank vent. Ive only owned the boat since october and it didnt run well then. Just trying to track down the issues by process of elimination and this is where it has led me. I do not know the real history of this motor and am certain I was lied to about the running condition. The price on the boat was good enough that I would have bought it knowing this issue but its frustrating to have to figure it all out from scratch. The other heads available were from a 98 5.0 carbed engine. Ill get these off and decide what to do from there. Thanks for the help. Ill report back after i get them off.

The whole point of electronically controlled fuel injection is to make diagnostics easier. Yes, some tests are needed, but you can check compression and every other physical aspect and not find that the ECT is reading excessively high temperature- this would, BTW, cause the engine to run lean, even if your pump, vent, fuel line and everything else in the fuel system is good and operating normally.

You were lied to, I was too. I would recommend that you assume the engine overheated, which means that you need to look at the raw water pump. If that's badly melted, look up into the cavity above the lower gear case and make sure the plastic part that normally holds the copper tube isn't melted, too. If it is, you'll need to replace it- this is called the 'waster pocket cover'. Also, you have (or had) a piece called a 'shutter' in the exhaust system- make sure it's intact or missing. If it's gone or in bad condition, replace it- any parts or service info requests will require knowing the serial number for the engine, gimbel and outdrive- these should be visible on the stickers on each, or on the flame arrestor cover.

If you don't have a parts list, look here and access it by searching with your serial numbers-

https://public-mercurymarine.sysonl...=GuestNA_KEY=NA_KEY_VALUElangIF=englangDB=eng
 

woodguy81

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 30, 2019
Messages
100
Heads were cracked on the cylinders that had the deformed intake valves. Nearly all the intake valves were leaking when vacuum tested. I am getting another set of heads with the same casting number from a local yard to have the shop test and rebuild with the stainless valves and if they test out ok. Im not really wanting to try the other set of used heads without having them tested and thats going to be an issue as the current owner of them since we do not know each other and he says they were tested already and wont just let me take them to be tested before I pay him. Not sure I blame him either but thats where im at. The cooling system all seems to be in good shape and intact. I assume the shutters you are referring to are the ones in the exhaust y pipe. They are missing. Not lodged somewhere, just missing. I gotta get those. What diagnostics do you recommend? I should be able to get that done at the local marina if I can convince them to sneak me in for just a test. Thanks again.
 
Top