5.7 Vortec 2BBL to 350 Mag MPI Conversion

[thumpar]

Re: 5.7 Vortec 2BBL to 350 Mag MPI Conversion

On the remote filter I would recommend one that the filter hangs down from. My is like that. I can take a bag and put it around the filter so when I unscrew it any oil just goes into the bag. It is much cleaner.

 

[Bondo]

Re: 5.7 Vortec 2BBL to 350 Mag MPI Conversion

here are choices on remote filters http://www.summitracing.com/search/...SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=remote oil filter

the motor doesnt know a "marine" remote filter from an "automotive" remote filter from a "industrial motor" remote filter

Ayuh,... While all of that is true,...

I'd go for an adapter that uses the standard Chevy filter, like the Mercruiser units,...

 

[Swill008]

Re: 5.7 Vortec 2BBL to 350 Mag MPI Conversion

We'll I've sent my injectors off to be cleaned. A company named Injector Experts, 20 bucks a pop, after testing the injector coils 14.1 ohms each I sent them in. Should have, them back next week.

I have Gelcoat cracking in my bilge area, should I sand the gel down to the fiber and Gelcoat the entire area? or scratch it out and use a patch and fill? Should I start a new thread for the Gelcoat concerns in the appropriate forum?

This is a restore of a SeaRay 210 Sundeck, boat sat for 5-6 years. A New to me project Boat.

 

[Fun Times]

Re: 5.7 Vortec 2BBL to 350 Mag MPI Conversion

Should I start a new thread for the Gelcoat concerns in the appropriate forum?

Yes, please do in the restoration forum, lots of knowledgeable members in there to help guide you in the right direction.

Be sure to let us know how the injectors work out.

 

[Swill008]

Re: 5.7 Vortec 2BBL to 350 Mag MPI Conversion

Alright one step forward and two steps back.

Man Im pissed, I wont say what company I got my rebuilt long block, but its crap. 2000$ pice of it :facepalm: I will never ever order from them again! PM for Details - Still would like to keep my warranty - And NO im not going to contact the company because if this is their product, you can imagine the customer service and I wouldn't trust them with a weed eater!

Ill do it myself then, I know its done correct.

problems:

1. head bolts not sealed - removed and replaced with new and sealed and proper torque used per the manual. Found that at about 15 Mins on the stand - Milkshake valve in and under the valve covers!

2. automotive head gasket were used, I replaced with felpro marine gaskets.

3. drilled and tapped all accessories threads on port head - completely rotten - wouldn't hold 10lbs of torque! 6 x helicoiled

4. just went to re-torque exhaust manifold ( haven't since i put it back together) - pulled the threads out of the Port Head! Was at proper torque when I first installed - UGHHH! Same port head! Just drilled for helicoil but I need
.750 inch only have .50 - so have to wait and order or try to find them local - all auto parts stores that I have found only carry the .50, I need 3/8 x 16 x .750, guess ill get them on FleaBay. I guess I didnt think to look at them while I was doing it!

5. When pulling the exhaust manifolds I found water INSIDE! Port and Starboards! When First Installed I checked both manifolds with Acetone didn't find a leak. I cleaned them up well and used new gaskets to install them with. Used the graphite coated ones - shiny, I believe thats whats on em. Was installed in accordance with the Technical Bulletin issued for them.

Just Removed and thats what I found.


Here is my setup on my Manifolds
{ill post when website will allow - Wont post}


These manifolds came from a freeze busted block, tested them seemed to be ok, now im thinking maybe in the elbows? Any suggestions? Don't want to replace unless I can verify where the leak is coming from - the engine only had 97 hours on it when replaced - freshwater and clean, except for maybe the crack in them - lol - CRAP

Ok now that was my two (or more) Steps back, Here is my one step foward. Was having flex with the alternator bracked assy for the MANDO style brackets. Supposedly there was a recall until 2004 because of misalignment and flexing caused by the old design brackets.

So of course that's what I have - So I FIXED IT


Added flat plate steel to the previously open bracket design.


Added a brace to the rear to stop the torsion and flexing.


Braced the lower bracket and cut out enough for my raw water hose to heat exchanger

This thing is now a TANK - Can definitely say it will not flex any longer!

So now just need to kick my Engine Builders butt and figure out how to pressure test my manifolds-spacers-elbows. I do not want to purchase new ones.

Questions:

Do I loose anything by using a helicoil - meaning tension strength? Seriously all of my port head exaughst manifolds threads looks like paper. I want to replace all eight. Should that be ok?

BTW, yes im using a Torque wrench

Whats your thoughts on my leaking manifolds?


Anyone have a block off plate I could borrow? LOL

 

[Bondo]

Re: 5.7 Vortec 2BBL to 350 Mag MPI Conversion

Ayuh,... the alloy used in helicoils is considerably stronger than cast iron,... Go for it,....

The manifold looks dirty,... clean the old gasket off with a flat file,...
'n it's the Other end that leaks water,...

 

[Swill008]

Re: 5.7 Vortec 2BBL to 350 Mag MPI Conversion

LOL, yes it is the other end that leaks water, however where the water is, its going into the engine via the exhaust valves! I had bad lighting at the time I took the pic, just showing the water in the interior of the manifold - where it shouldn't be. When I first put it on, I cleaned them up well and used a flat file to clean them up. She's dirty because It was running rich from the MPI conversion - had a bad MAP, after geting her ready I shipped out the injectors to be cleaned, still waiting for them to return.

Unless I misunderstood you, Bondo. At this point I needed a chuckle.

Thanks!

 

[Bondo]

Re: 5.7 Vortec 2BBL to 350 Mag MPI Conversion

LOL, yes it is the other end that leaks water, however where the water is, its going into the engine via the exhaust valves! I had bad lighting at the time I took the pic, just showing the water in the interior of the manifold - where it shouldn't be. When I first put it on, I cleaned them up well and used a flat file to clean them up. She's dirty because It was running rich from the MPI conversion - had a bad MAP, after geting her ready I shipped out the injectors to be cleaned, still waiting for them to return.

Unless I misunderstood you, Bondo. At this point I needed a chuckle.

Thanks!

Ayuh,.... 'n my point is water flows downhill,.... in the picture I see rust tracks exitin' the manifold, but not the source,...

Is the water originatin' from the riser gasket area, or a crack down in the throat of the manifold, or is there a crack hidden in the shadow in the picture,..??

 

[Swill008]

Re: 5.7 Vortec 2BBL to 350 Mag MPI Conversion

I havent found the crack as of yet. I filled the manifold with Acetone and did not have a crack in the manifold, well at least I didn't see it. Im thinking its the 3inch spacer or the elbow, ill have to break it apart tomorrow and look for a rust trail.

I figured that was was you were meaning, couldn't resist sorry wasn't trying to toy with you! (A lot ) No disrespect.

I do a lot of reading here on the Forums every day, I know you know your stuff!

 

[Bondo]

Re: 5.7 Vortec 2BBL to 350 Mag MPI Conversion

I havent found the crack as of yet. I filled the manifold with Acetone and did not have a crack in the manifold, well at least I didn't see it. Im thinking its the 3inch spacer or the elbow, ill have to break it apart tomorrow and look for a rust trail.

I figured that was was you were meaning, couldn't resist sorry wasn't trying to toy with you! (A lot ) No disrespect.

I do a lot of reading here on the Forums every day, I know you know your stuff!

'ell, that's Ok,.. Glad ya found the humor,....

 

[Swill008]

Re: 5.7 Vortec 2BBL to 350 Mag MPI Conversion

Hey guys!

Finally got around to taking apart my manifolds. I can see where the water has sat in the lower. However upon inspecting my manifolds I can not find where the water is coming from. No rust stains from any joints and nothing entering the fire tube chamber. All smut and no water lines. So I dunno

I suspect it is coming from the center section, looking down the manifold, the lip between the center exhaust ports. Hopefully I have provided enough photos and video to show what Im seeing. Any suggestions are welcome!

EDIT: Guess I should ask a question, Does water flow through the center casting between the center ports? Or is it solid casting?

Also before installing these, I did do an acetone test. I did not have a leak then, left it for approx 1hr and checked, was bone dry. Was planing on taking these to the machine shop and have resurfaced, but If I have a crack, guess Ill need new.

Thanks!

Sorry did not realize that I was in portrait mode instead of landscape.

 

[Swill008]

Re: 5.7 Vortec 2BBL to 350 Mag MPI Conversion

OK, this will be the last one in portrat mode :doh:

Showing my Engine with rusted exhaust ports {notice the tapped helicoil?**

 

[Swill008]

Re: 5.7 Vortec 2BBL to 350 Mag MPI Conversion



This is the only spot I found a rust trail. These are my 3-inch extensions.

However the leak is not going into the fire ring. Just between water jackets.

I have completed a closed cooling system leak down test previously and it held pressure for well over an hour. I believe I'll do another pressure test on the system.

I'm wondering if it was residual from my leaking head bolts that I replaced and sealed, with the correct marine head gaskets.

I have re-Acetoned the exhaust manifolds. They were still dry after an hour, inspected elbows. Everything looks good. The trouble spots I was previously asking about I clean up and were not leaking. I had a few rust splatches, but I think it is the water being splashed up by the exhaust while running.

So either the crack opens when hot, or it's coming through the engine (head or intake), or it's residual.

Anyone have any suggestions? I'm really not wanting to replace both assemblies! :doh:

 

[Bondo]

Re: 5.7 Vortec 2BBL to 350 Mag MPI Conversion

Ayuh,.... The top castin' in that picture, there's a gasket breach all along the right side, most worse in the lower corner,...

The gasket seal in the top right corner is barely 1/2 the width of the rest of the seal,...

The gasket seal, should be full width, 'tween the water passage, 'n the exhaust passage,...

Those should be Flattened, either at a Machine Shop, or you could do it yerself with a beltsander, 'n care,...

 

[Swill008]

Re: 5.7 Vortec 2BBL to 350 Mag MPI Conversion

Bondo, would you suspect this is where I'm getting water penetration? Couldn't find anything else.

 

[Swill008]

Re: 5.7 Vortec 2BBL to 350 Mag MPI Conversion

Also I'm thinking about taking both manifold assemblies to the machine shop for a resurface. Elbows both sides of my extensions as well as the center manifold rise.

Could you guys let me know what I could expect as far as cost is concerned? Reasonable cost I hope

 

[Swill008]

Re: 5.7 Vortec 2BBL to 350 Mag MPI Conversion

I pressure tested the cooling system all night last night. This is what I got.




So my head gasket are leaking. When I replaced the automotive head gasket with fel pro marine ones, I did notice the block head surface was not resurfaced. (The heads had been) I figured it would be ok. I then replaced all head bolts and sealed them.

I followed merc manual #24 and did the proper degree torque with an torque angle gauge. I rechecked my head bolts at 65#'s and my short bolts along the bottom were loose. (1/2 turn perhaps) I then checked each one in sequence at 65#. Only my shorts were loose. So I have retorqued both heads as both were leaking. I have ran this engine Approx 1/2 hour after replacing head gaskets.

I hope somewhat this is where I was getting water into my manifolds. I did have a bit of milkshake under my valve covers but only in a localized area front of the valve covers, but none in the heads.

Would you guys think to be ok for the retorque and not worry? Possible out of limits head surface area, or am I just over thinking this?

Maybe claim my warranty and walk away from this rebuilders engine? lol

Any recommendations?

I'm pressure testing again now after the retorque. Hope it holds after all of this.

 

[Bondo]

Re: 5.7 Vortec 2BBL to 350 Mag MPI Conversion

and did the proper degree torque with an torque angle gauge. I rechecked my head bolts at 65#'s and my short bolts along the bottom were loose. (1/2 turn perhaps) I then checked each one in sequence at 65#. Only my shorts were loose. So I have retorqued both heads as both were leaking. I have ran this engine Approx 1/2 hour after replacing head gaskets.

Ayuh,.... Yer confusin' me with that quote,....

Are ya sayin' you went through the angle torque sequence, 'n the short outer bolts were 1/2 turn Loose,..??

You Did include ALL of the head bolts, includin' the short bolts, in the torque sequence, Right,..??

'n when ya retorqued,... Did you include ALL of the head bolts in the sequence, includin' the short bolts,..??

That head gasket leak ain't puttin' water in yer manifolds,...
The gasket surfaces of the parts(manifolds? risers? elbows? ) appear to be leakin' to Me,...

I don't remember the charge for deckin' my exhaust parts,... it weren't much,...
Standard shop rate, for maybe an hour,...
It's a pretty Fast operation,...

 

[Swill008]

Re: 5.7 Vortec 2BBL to 350 Mag MPI Conversion

Bondo,

Yes I included all bolts in the correct sequence on initial torque.

I did not want to loosen everything and retorque, so I shopped around and read eng rebuilders torquing to 65 instead of following the torque angle method. Also older merc manual had listed as 65, but that was prior to gen +.

When I retorqued the bolts this morning I included all bolts in correct sequence. Only the short bolts moved approx 1/2 turn.

So far I can barely see any water. Been on pressure since 0900.

 

[Swill008]

Re: 5.7 Vortec 2BBL to 350 Mag MPI Conversion



I have flat filed every joint. I used WD-40 to help the file cut. I was not trying to get a new machined surface, just trying to get it as flat as I could. Took about 4hrs today to get it as good as it is.

You can still notice some low spots, but I believe she's good for my purpose. It's ALOT better than what she was. Can't believe it was that far out of flat.

Thanks Bondo for the idea.