5.7L Vortec Part Recommendations

Scott06

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Apr 20, 2014
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Well color me with sticker shock.. I know it has been a while since I had heads done.. The shop I just went to quoted me about $1,000 to do the heads.... I think I will back off a bit on this and go back to a budget approach... Probably buy the tool and cut down for the springs myself or just get the Comp Cams beehives... Then have a shop just do a 3 angle grind..

A stock marine 5.7 is rated at 295 hp so a basic rebuild and 4 bbl carb will get you close to 300.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Well color me with sticker shock.. I know it has been a while since I had heads done.. The shop I just went to quoted me about $1,000 to do the heads.... I think I will back off a bit on this and go back to a budget approach... Probably buy the tool and cut down for the springs myself or just get the Comp Cams beehives... Then have a shop just do a 3 angle grind..

you need a new machine shop. you can buy new heads from GM with the modifications done (link I provided prior) and a set of gaskets from GM and a set of head bolts, valve covers and assembly lube for $1000

your machine shop you went to is run by crooks
 

76SeaRay

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I think you are right... Going to try somewhere else or buy the tools and do it myself... It will be a tradeoff between the cost of the tools and my labor versus just going with the Comp Cams Beehives...

So, a follow on question... If I do the machining for higher lift, should I do that before having a valve grind done or have the heads stock reconditioned and then do the machining myself? I am thinking have them reconditioned first so I get a magna flux to check for cracks before doing the machining myself...
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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you have to shim any way...... however my suggestion would be as follows

blend the chambers
blend the bowls
port match the heads
machine the rocker stud boss for thread-in studs
machine the seal area
then the valves
then the spring seat cutter

FYI, Freebetony did a write up.....see post #7

However personally I would call machine shops in the midwest near race tracks and simply spend $400 or less on a set of heads ready to run and be done. call around Wisconsin (Green Bay and Milwaukee), Ohio (Near mid-ohio), and Minnesota. As I stated, racing rules changed, and many shops need to dump inventory.
 

76SeaRay

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I am in the Pacific Northwest... So, only a couple of smaller race tracks around here...
 

76SeaRay

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Ok, got out of the Seattle area to my small home town. Found a shop that will do both heads including the machining for lift and improved seals for $400 plus parts. So, going to go with that and the
Comp Cams XM264HR. Now I need to determine the best roller lifters (probably go with a packaged set with the cam) and the best roller tip rockers.

Looking at this kit right now....


https://www.compcams.com/xtreme-marine-212-218-hydraulic-roller-sk-kit-for-oe-roller-sbc.html
 
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76SeaRay

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Yeah, I figured that out earlier... The block is date coded March of 1995 and had non-roller in it. However, it is machined for the roller guides and it does have the threaded bosses both for the valley pan guide retainer and the threaded bosses for the cam shaft retainer underneath the timing chain and gear....
 

Scott Danforth

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define low octane?

87, yes, however you will need to read the plugs, and watch your base timing
89, no problem

it will work ok with the scrap (stock + crap = scrap) 4-relief pistons, it will also work with the LCQ style.

I ran 91 octane in my motor, however I had the base timing about 14 BTDC and didnt want to every have a detonation issue.
 

76SeaRay

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Thanks, low octane as in 87 pump gas since I will trailer to the boat to lakes as opposed to filling up at marinas all the time so looking for lower cost and best mileage. I am in Washington State and we have pretty high gas taxes... Around here 91 or 92 octane is in the neighborhood of just under $4.00 a gallon... Haven't even priced marina gas...

My question on pistons was relative to both octane and valve clearance with the higher lift. Just didn't know if the valves would clear the stock pistons.. The current pistons are standard stock as near as I can tell and tight. Will wait to see what the machine shop says but leaning toward new pistons. I have been researching pistons but haven't found any that refer to them as being LCQ with the possible exception of KB135 (a bit spendy).
 
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