50's Johnson 10 HP

[O'Riley]

In a pinch can a person use some Lawn Boy two cycle oil. He's just gonna take a quick spin to see if the motor works okay. I've read he needs a 24:1 mix. Once he gets up north I'll give him a gallon of TCW-3.

His wife went to a hardware store and they sold her some Opti-2 oil in a pouch, never heard of it. Will that work?

Thanks very much.

 

[Daviet]

Re: 50's Johnson 10 HP

I might run it for a few minutes in neutral, but I wouldn't run it under load for any amount of time.
That oil is for air cooled engines, not water cooled. I have had people do it before without any damage.

 

[O'Riley]

Re: 50's Johnson 10 HP

Thanks, never thought of that. He wants to check out his two line tank, the mechanic that fixed his motor used his own tank.

 

[O'Riley]

Re: 50's Johnson 10 HP

A, I'd go with the Opti 2 stuff but just not too far. Just test out your tank and call it good enough.

 

[1946Zephyr]

Re: 50's Johnson 10 HP

Well, I think air cooled two stroke oil should be safe to run in an outboard. Just make sure you mix per manufacturers recemendations.
Air cooled two stroke oil is made to run in an engine that runs hotter and under more extreme conditions. You just wouldn't want to run outboard oil in a weed whacker or chainsaw. A 1950's QD runs pretty darned cool, compared to chainsaws, weed whackers, lawnmowers and dirt bikes, so I can't see what the harm is. Stay away from synthetic though. A friend of mine here just blew up a nice running little 1954 CD with synthetic oil and it was a nice tight little running engine. Stay with dino oil only. A lot of good name brand two stroke oil is made to run in either outboards or air cooled engines. I usually run Valvoline.

 

[F_R]

Re: 50's Johnson 10 HP

The difference in two stroke oil and TC-W3 is the detergents. Air cooled motors run hotter and are able to burn off the detergents required to stand the heat. Water cooled motors need the ashless detergents found in the TC-W3. The Lawn Boy oil is ok for a short trip, but long term use will build up detergent ash. I don't know what that other stuff is.

Sorry to disagree with a friend, but I disagree on the Synthetic. That's all I have used for the last 5 years or so, both in my outboards and chainsaw etc. I highly favor it. Better take a second look at why that CD blew up. Or was it Synthetic car oil????

 

[HighTrim]

Re: 50's Johnson 10 HP

I disagree on the Synthetic as well, all I use in my motors.

 

[O'Riley]

Re: 50's Johnson 10 HP

I have Cabela's semi-synthetic TCW-3 so I guess he'll use that if he gets this far.

Thanks

 

[Texasmark]

Re: 50's Johnson 10 HP

Ditto on using Syn and find out what really caused friends OB to tank.

 

[1946Zephyr]

Re: 50's Johnson 10 HP

Yea, I'm kinda curious too. I suggested that he ran 16:1 mix since it was an early motor with no needles and like me, he believes in following the rules of good lubrication, when it comes to mixing fuel. It's odd that he said he used synthetic oil, when he told me it blew.
It's possible that a rod bolt may have worked loose and raised hell in the crank case, like my little Fisherman below. The locking plates on a lot of these old smaller engines were not that great. I had a bunch of my own cut out of better material, so I wouldn't have to face that issue again, if I ever do an overhaul.

Anyhow, I figured dino was all that was available when these 1950's outboards were built, so I figure why not stay with something that is proven for many years longer. I know...I know...all they used back then was 30 weight "mobile oil" but TCW-3 is still so much better. I've used Valvoline for years and like it.