'54 SeaKing 5hp recoil adjustment

JasonAych

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Aug 10, 2008
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274
Re: '54 SeaKing 5hp recoil adjustment

That plate you are refering to is fixed. Loosening the three screws does not do anything for adjustment. The adjustment is the 4th screw offset from the screw at abou 2 o'clock. There should be a little friction plate going from one of the outter screws to it. There is a slot with a tapper in it on the throttle valve inside the venturi. This screw acts as a stop on the tapper. It is used to adjust the fuel/air mixture at idle. A believe counter clockwise richens and clockwise leans. You are supposed to get it running right at higher speeds then make this adjustment at idle. Make sure you slightly open the throttle valve before you adjust the screw then close it or you may lock the throttle valve and wont be able to move the magneto lever past idle. This adjustment simply adjusts the throttle valve opening in the idle postion.
 

asdasc

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Aug 28, 2008
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680
Re: '54 SeaKing 5hp recoil adjustment

OK, thank you very much. I understand your explanation completely.

When I get back out to the cottage, I will take a closer look at it and see how the adjustments go.

So the big knob on the front of the carb is the high speed jet adjust? I need to go re-read your other post again.
 

tmcalavy

Rear Admiral
Joined
Aug 29, 2001
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4,005
Re: '54 SeaKing 5hp recoil adjustment

Correct, the jet behind the big knob is the high-speed setting...loosen the lock nut and turn it clockwise gently until it stops, then back it out about 3/4 of a turn counterclockwise. Start it up, let it warm up a bit, then throttle up...turn the high-speed slowly until it revs/runs best...Right is Lean, Left is Rich. Then idle it down and adjust the small screw on the right side until it runs decent at idle, then tighten those lock nuts. If your carb is still a bit cruddy, you may have trouble getting it to idle well...reclean it if necessary. Acmeoutboards.com has a manual/guide for that motor.
 

JasonAych

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274
Re: '54 SeaKing 5hp recoil adjustment

Turns out I think both my Sea Kings had the washers backwards. The thicker ones should be in the back and thinner up front. I actually measured it out on my third Sea King 5 hp. Otherwise, there will be a lot of wear to the prawls and gear. After I set it up this way, I can see that everthing lines up better (gaps between the side covers and tank). I can see that the other one I have to fix is not lined up.
 

asdasc

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Aug 28, 2008
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680
Re: '54 SeaKing 5hp recoil adjustment

Hi Jason,

OK, I am an idiot. I read this just before leaving the house for the cottage, just to be sure I had it right. Now looking back at it, by the time I got there i had it backwards. I put the thick washers up front. Oh well, that part of it worked AWESOME. I mixed up some new fuel. It already had new ignition and a fresh carb rebuild. I had pulled the plugs and squirted some seafoam in the cylinders. Then I pulled it over a couple times to figure out which setting was in gear and neutral, then I mounted it on the boat. I was stunned when it started and continued running on the FIRST PULL!!! It idled and ran quiet and smooth. The only problem is that the carb leaks fuel all over the place. The float sticks both up and down. When it is up gas leaks out the primer pin. When it is down, the motor stalls after about 2-5 minutes of running.

SOooooo, I need to pull things apart again. It also seemed to get pretty hot, so I need to pull apart the water pump and replace the impeller. I took that apart before, but didn't replace it as it was pretty flexible and are hard to find new parts (right? I read that some where)

The good news is that it runs!! I couldn't beleive how quiet and smooth it was. Any comments or advice would be appreciated.

Thanks,
 

JasonAych

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 10, 2008
Messages
274
Re: '54 SeaKing 5hp recoil adjustment

I like my Sea Kings. They run well and are very simplistic. One of mine leaked and all I did was pinch the needle shaft coming out if the bowl and turn/spin it a few times until it seamed to seal. Hasn't leaked since??? You could try purchasing valve lapping compound to clean up the seat and tapper on the valve. Take the cork off. Put the compound on the taper and seat then needle back in the bowl and put the cover back on to serve as a guide so every thing is lined up correctly. Then twirl the needle for a bit. How does the cork look? Does it float? Try sealing it with a product called Seal All (Ace Hardware), let the cork dry out then brush it on. If you need a new cork, I made one from a "cork stop" I bought at a hardware store.

As far the impellor goes, OMC # 434424, Sierra/NAPA Part Number 18-3001 should work. It did for me. This is a common impellor. I was told I would have to ream the hole out a little bigger but i didn't have to??

The ignition systems are very typical OMC parts. Most small Evinrude/Johnson and Gale outboards use the same ignition parts from like the early 50's to early 70's.

Haven't found any carb parts or gaskets new. Been improvising.
 

asdasc

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 28, 2008
Messages
680
Re: '54 SeaKing 5hp recoil adjustment

Thanks Jason, that is a great idea with the valve lapping compound. I have also heard that model airplane dope works well for sealing the floats. I will pick some up. It is designed for use with the fuels. It does seem to float, but it was sticking in the down position at times. I think the lapping compound will fix that.

I have already put in all new ignition parts, and that part works great.

Thanks for the tip on the Sierra part number for the impeller. I may even have that one. I need to check. I ended up with a bunch of parts from a garage sale. I will get it going good, that was too smooth NOT to keep going on.

Thanks again for the help and encouragement.
 

JasonAych

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 10, 2008
Messages
274
Re: '54 SeaKing 5hp recoil adjustment

Seal All supposedly works with ethanol as well. It's cheep to, like $3 for a big tube. I tested it for a week in a jar of fuel with 10% ethanol. Was still floating and the coating was still hard and in tact. BTW, did the same thing with JB weld and it crumbled (I needed to know for a carb repair for another project which ironically involved the float valve seat :) )

The model airplane stuff supposedly works good to.

The 3 53 Sea King 5hp outboards I have all purr. I can get them down to a really slow idle and they rev up to about 4lk nicely. They do run really smooth. I like the neutral as well (My other 2 small outbards are direct drives).
 
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