55hp year

[skipperman]

I have this 55hp Evinrude. Can anyone tell me the exact year for this thing? model - trl-10r. Is there a unique parts list for my motor i can get with my serial number?

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: 55hp year

That's the number we need skipperman!<br />Johnson TR-10 (TRL-10 would be a longshaft version , 20" transom)<br />Year: 1968<br />HP: 55<br />WOT RPMS: 5000<br />Displacement: 49.7 cu.in. = 814.4 ccm<br />Cylinders: 3<br />Weight: 195 lbs. = 88.5 Kg<br />Gear ratio: 12:29<br />Fuel/Oil mix: 50:1 87 octane gas to TC-W3 rated outboard oil.<br />Lower unit oil: Since it's a hydro-electric shift lower unit, use only OMC/BRP "Premium Blend" (old Type C) lower unit oil.<br />Spark plugs: Champion L76V Surface Gap or Champion L77JC4 gapped at .030"<br /> Picture<br />From the Old OMC Site<br /><br />Blown up diagrams and part numbers of every part of the engine are in the parts manual. The service manual tells you how to fix it, and is the more valuable of the two manuals.<br />Manuals:<br />TheOutboardWizard<br />Mastertech<br />Marine Engine<br />Ken Cook <br /> Evinrude Parts manual, cheap (Same as the Johnson except for trim)

 

[skipperman]

Re: 55hp year

Sweet, thanks.

 

[Buckstr]

Re: 55hp year

I too have a trl-10r ( 55 Hp johnson). I was just given to me and I am trying to get it running. So far I think it has a fuel/carb problem as I can get it to start by sparying in some starter fluid but wont run. Plan to try to rebuild the carbs once I get a manual, In any case, I have a question about the lower unit gear lube. The previous post mentioned a type C oil. Is this the same gear lube that is used for most modern motors that I can by jsut about anywhere or is this something special? I thought the hydro-electric shift models used the newer type of lube ( think I read it somehwere) but don't know for sure. Any clarificaiton would be greatly appreciated. This is my first boat motor and I am learning alot.<br /><br />Thanks

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: 55hp year

No it is not the same. Many lower unit oils claim to be for use where 'Type C' is recommended, but your engine cannot use it. The standard lower unit oils are far too viscous for the oil pump. So use OMC/BRP (Bombardier Recreational Products) 'Premium Blend' only. It's the consistancy of ATF, so it's very different from normal lube.<br />PS - starting fluid is very hard on 2-stroke engines unless the fluid contains a lubricant. If you need something, try putting a little fuel premix in a windex type bottle. The starting fluid washes away any residual lube in the engine, and provides no lubrication itself. Running an engine without oil is bad.

 

[Buckstr]

Re: 55hp year

Ok, thanks, will be sure to add the correct type. I will also quit using the starter fluid.<br /><br />Just FYI, I found out where I got the incorrect info for the hydroelectric shift ( what I have) the following came from:<br /> http://www.brownsmarina.com/tech-winter-outboard.html <br /><br />Which gear oil to use?<br />If you have an electric shift gearcase (common in the sixties), you need a special oil called OMC Premium Blend (used to be called ‘Type C'). Failure to use this oil will result in a failure of the electromagnetic shift system this system utilizes.<br /><br />All other gearcases (including hydro-electric shifts) will operate on a hypoid 90 weight oil. OMC's Hi-Vis brand fits the bill nicely, and if you really want to extend gear life and protect if the unit is contaminated with water, I strongly recommend OMC's HPF synthetic gear oil. When in doubt, follow your engine manufacturers recommendations.<br /><br />Re-filling the gearcase (do NOT leave it empty for the storage period):<br />To start with, let's install new gaskets or o-rings on our fill screws (cheap insurance to save grief down the road). Next, many manufacturers supply their oil in soft squeezable bottles, or optional hand pumps can be purchases for larger containers. Whatever method you choose, fill from the bottom hole until it comes out the top hole. Install the top screw, then remove filler from the bottom and quickly install the screw there as well. Torque the screws and wipe off the excess oil. Speaking of excess oil, please make sure you dispose of the old oil in an environmentally responsible manner.

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: 55hp year

What can I say?<br />Search this board for 'Hydro Electric oil' and read till you're heart is content...

 

[Buckstr]

Re: 55hp year

Sorry, did not mean to imply that I thought you were incorrect. I am sure you recommended the correct fluid. Since you seem knowledgeable about this type of engine, I do have one more question. Because the gear fluid is leaking out around the propellor, I need to replace the propeller seals. I found a local dealer who has the seals instock but they also told me I need an O ring in addition to the two seals. They did not have a part number for the O ring and asked that I bring it in with me after taking the seals out and they would match it up for me. I took out the seals but did not see an O ring. When I look at the seal kits one can buy at Iboats, I do not see an O ring. Do you know if there is supposed to be an O ring somewhere associated with the seals? I am wondering if they are mistaken about an O ring being required. I ordered a manual for the engine but it has not arrived yet so I can't check there yet. <br /><br />BTW, I took your advice and used a spray bottle with the gas/oil mixture. After a few attempts, I was able to get the engine started and running fine by priming the carbs with the spary bottle. At least I wont be having to rebuild the carbs<br /><br /><br />Thanks again for the help

 

[Buckstr]

Re: 55hp year

Ok, still having some trouble, I think I may need to replace the fuel pump for this motor. I looked on Iboats but do not see one of the sierra fuel pump kits for this motor year and size. Anyone have a part number?; as it would help me track down the right replacement fuel pump.<br /><br />Thanks for all the help so far.