59 Johnson Lighttwin 3hp Lower unit&pump

[Dizz]

I have a motor I bought last week from Craig`s list from Idaho.This motor arrived with the front cast alum. handle broke off,bet that`s a bugger to find.Might get it welded back.It was packed poorly.
Anyway,I was told the impellor was replaced,thought I`d check it.I let the drive shaft come out of lower unit,something is loose down there&dosen`t seem to want to line up.Did I really mess up?Also,the water stream looked weak coming out of those little vent holes half way up lower unit on front,it may be normal,don`t know what kinda water flow is normal on these.Impellor is still soft rubber,but it`s a little rough looking on bottom where it rubs that little seal,or O ring that goes in the top of plate that impellor rides on.That seal,or o-rind looks rough&hard.Does this all need replaced?Any need for RTVsilicone anywhere around plate or cover?That rubber seal that copper pipe goes in is also hard as a rock,this is really the reason I thought water flow was weak,it`s as hard as a rock&egg shaped.Also had some water in lower unit,found lotta fish line around prop shaft&am replacing drain plug seals.
Lastly,I know I need new coils,they are all cracked&yellow fire,and really weak fire on top.It did start the 1st pull though.How much compression does this little motor need to run right?
I know this was the right place to go,any advice appreciated

 

[Dizz]

Re: 59 Johnson Lighttwin 3hp Lower unit&pump

Took the prop shaft out,it went back together fine.

 

[wbeaton]

Re: 59 Johnson Lighttwin 3hp Lower unit&pump

The carry handle is attached to the lower cowl by screws. Is yours broken off or just not attached? Yes, it can be a tough to find that piece, but any outboard boneyard should have it. If the impeller looks worn, replace it. Its only $20 and worth every penny. Some people use RTV on the impeller housing, wear plate and screws while others don't. Leaky seals are pretty standard. You can buy a seal kit for it. Yes, you need coils and it wouldn't hurt to install new points and condensers (another $20). I've seen those little machines run with as little as 60 psi per cylinder.

 

[F_R]

Re: 59 Johnson Lighttwin 3hp Lower unit&pump

Next time, and for the benefit of others reading this, you didn't have to take the prop shaft out. If you hold the gearcase in a certain position, the drive shaft will go in with a little bit of jiggleing. I believe the "certain" position is with the prop shaft pointing up. I could have the wrong position though.

The water should spray out those holes at all speeds. There isn't supposed to be any o-ring between the impeller and plate. There is supposed to be an o-ring in the groove at the top of the drive shaft. Replace the water tube grommet. Make sure the water tube isn't bent so that it rubs on the drive shaft. You probably should replace the impeller as long as you have it out. Is the housing worn? Wonder why some clown put that o-ring in there.

Adjust the new coils so that the ends of the laminated cores are aligned flush with the machined edges of the posts they sit on. That will provide proper clearance with the flywheel magnets.

 

[Dizz]

Re: 59 Johnson Lighttwin 3hp Lower unit&pump

My carry handle is broke on both sides,couple inches in front of where it mounts to cowl,and another almost break.I took it off to try to have it welded. Where to look for bone yards?
I lost my internet last night.But,after looking at the plate below my impellor again,I don`t think it is a o-ring,It is a perfect ring of rubber that came or burned off my impellor bottom.Maybe it has been started dry a few times?


I have 75lbs compression top,70 on bottom.The fella I bought it from told me it had over 90#,the lower unit didn`t leak,had good strong fire,then packed it poorly so the handle broke.He sounded so honest ,to.He`s a air traffic controller from Spirit Lake Idaho.He has more stuff to sell.Beware,or e-mail before buying from that town.He had it listed on Craig`s List.

 

[wbeaton]

Re: 59 Johnson Lighttwin 3hp Lower unit&pump

Water in the lower unit means there was/is a leak. Compression testers vary. Maybe his read high or yours low. 75-70 psi is fine. Bad coils may still fire well when tested, but fail under load. Its been my experience that when they say it has a new impeller they mean "it was new at one time". Sounds like you've probably paid more than you would have otherwise. Perhaps you should call/email the guy and tell him what you've found. Maybe he'll make it right, maybe not.

 

[Dizz]

Re: 59 Johnson Lighttwin 3hp Lower unit&pump

Where can I find bone yards for these old motors?

 

[F_R]

Re: 59 Johnson Lighttwin 3hp Lower unit&pump

go to the antique outboard motor club's website aomci.org and place a free want ad on their Webvertize pages. Works for me.

 

[wbeaton]

Re: 59 Johnson Lighttwin 3hp Lower unit&pump

The AOMCI website is a good resource. As is Twin City outboard and I've got another good US site bookmarked, but that's all at home. I'll post later if nobody else does.

 

[Scaaty]

Re: 59 Johnson Lighttwin 3hp Lower unit&pump

Parts show up on Ebay..

 

[Dizz]

Re: 59 Johnson Lighttwin 3hp Lower unit&pump

I`ll give those places a try.Have someone trying to weld it now,don`t expect it will hold.
I put on coils&point`s kit today.still didn`t idle&run quite right.Their was quite a bit of solid grayish junk around high speed jet,and pretty nasty in general.I cleaned the carb,I wasen`t able to find a kit local.I`ll be all right unless their is a little junk behind that little welsh plug on the low speed jet,or if modern gas eats up the float.If it still dosen`t run good in the lake,I might have to get a kit.I haven`t had it in anything but a barrel so far.
On that large plate on the side of block,all the screws were very loose and it had been seeping a lotta oil&junk.I tightened up the screws.It may need a new gasket.How important is that plate to the engine running correctly?Would a little leak hurt it?I may have it sealed by tighting screws,not sure.