60 degree looper150 HP rebuild thread

SparkieBoat

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Re: 60 degree looper150 HP rebuild thread

ok finally found out that my block is not a 1991. the crank case bottom seal part # 340559 was used on 1994 and up motors. that is good news. I would still like to know the year of my block. the only numbers I could find on the block is 438419. welsh plug number is 34094131

I still do not know exactly what motor I have. I want to thank everyone for all of your help and input, you have all been invaluable.
 

j_k_bisson

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Re: 60 degree looper150 HP rebuild thread

Down here where I live I spoke with a machine shop and they quoted me a price of 45 bucks a hole (FYI) to bore my GT 150. I have mine all apart but I have not been able to get it to the shop...they are closed on the weekends...must be nice. As far as the sleeves being turned....I do not have a clue.

I was not advocating resleeving the block. I was just referencing the fact that a Machine shop has to be pretty good to have the recomendation to replace sleeves in block, espoecially marine blind hole blocks. Takes special equipment and know how to get it done right.

Also up here in Michigan, again at the machine shop I was talking about, the cost is $40/hole honing, $40/hole for boring. You need both if you bore, one honing if that is all you are doing. The place up here is Chip's head and hole shop. He works on everything. From Briggs racing motors to marine to automotive. Even all the dealers recommend him.
 

j_k_bisson

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Re: 60 degree looper150 HP rebuild thread

As to the identifying numbers on my block they where on the top stamped into the casting up under the flywheel, also on the bottom where it would mount to the mid. Any stampings in the block anywhere?
 

SparkieBoat

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Re: 60 degree looper150 HP rebuild thread

no numbers stamped on top of block anywhere, also no stamped numbers on bottom of block.
 

SparkieBoat

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Re: 60 degree looper150 HP rebuild thread

Ok..I have to go to walmart...day 3 on the motor is now over. waiting on some instruction on exactly what to do from here.
 

boobie

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Re: 60 degree looper150 HP rebuild thread

Sparkie, Call Flagship Marine in Punta Gorda Fl. 1-888-282-2840 and ask for Jeff Brown. They do all kinds of machine work and rebuilding. I know the guy and he won't give you any BS. Don't forget to mention the turned sleeves.
 

SparkieBoat

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Re: 60 degree looper150 HP rebuild thread

since I have found that the block is at least a 1994, I will probably be keeping this motor for a long time. I would be willing to ship the block to a machine shop if they would be able to do things to it that regular shops can not do, like special port work and such. but at the same time I am on a budget so I do have limited funds that I can afford to put into this motor. I have been to Englewood before and will probably be going back there this fall, hopefully with my top notch running motor and boat. Punta is another hour past Englewood, so a 9 hour one way road trip is out of the question just to get a block bored..so shipping would be the only way, probably cost me about $200 just for that. but I could do that if it would really be that much better. Thanks Boobie
 

Faztbullet

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Re: 60 degree looper150 HP rebuild thread

Throw it in a box and send it to MarFab for machining and testing and tell Kirt that Alan from Pappys told ya to send it.
Pressure testing block $110
Boring $50 per cylinder and includes: port chamfering, hone to finish size,chamfering top of cylinder
http://www.mar-fab.com/MarFab_Tech_Bulletins_D9579.pdf
 

SparkieBoat

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Re: 60 degree looper150 HP rebuild thread

should I send anything other than the stripped block??? I will call them monday.
 

Faztbullet

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Re: 60 degree looper150 HP rebuild thread

Remove all nuts ,bolts,brackets,motor mounts,wiring looms & clamps. Just send block only as they dont need front half. Ask Kirt or Larry for special deal on parts since they will be doing machining...usually 10% off list. I also can supply items if needed...
 

SparkieBoat

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Re: 60 degree looper150 HP rebuild thread

thanks Faz. It looks like I need the upper crank seal, the gasket between the block and mid section, new head seals, and will need new pistons and rings. the intake and carb gaskets/seals all look to be in good shape. there was no gasket on the crank cover, I do not know if one goes there or if just sealant is used. anything else you would suggest that I replace with new parts? Also would you recommend plugging the idle relief port?? If so should I request that to be done by MarFab?
 

SparkieBoat

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Re: 60 degree looper150 HP rebuild thread

Ok it is day 5, I am about to call marfab and talk to kirt. I will ship off the block tomorrow, I am going to go ahead and sink the money in this engine, as I will probably keep it for a while. New pistons, rings, head seals, top crank seal, power head base gasket, anything else I should replace??
 

Faztbullet

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Re: 60 degree looper150 HP rebuild thread

I only plug the idle relief if a fellow wants to go fast,side effect is you need to run 89 octane due to compression increase. If its just a fishing boatI dont suggest it. You will need some Loctite 518, primer for the 518(block) black sensor safe RTV (heads) Suggested is list of items I myself would replace/repair:
Upper seal
Lower seal
Lower seal housing o-ring
Head o-rings
Rodbolts
Tan or red intake gaskets(black are no good)
New t-stats
Piston rings (check to see if you have the pressure back rings in case Frank swapped pistons)
New pistons if skirts are below wear spec's
 

SparkieBoat

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Re: 60 degree looper150 HP rebuild thread

if cylinder #5 has been bored 020, should I not bore all cylinders to match? which would mean all new pistons, except #5, I could reuse it since it is new, I guess. Also will I need to replace the main jets? and is there a gasket for the crank shaft cover? if not what sealer do I use there?

Kirt was out, I spoke with Larry, He was very helpful.
 

j_k_bisson

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Re: 60 degree looper150 HP rebuild thread

Um seeing you need a complete rebuild gasket kit, why not look for one on ebay. The kit would be cheaper than individual pieces. That is where I got mine form.
 
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Re: 60 degree looper150 HP rebuild thread

I only plug the idle relief if a fellow wants to go fast,side effect is you need to run 89 octane due to compression increase. If its just a fishing boatI dont suggest it.

I've got a question about that. It's been my understanding that the idle relief is there to improve idle quality, right? It's also been my understanding that the idle relief is so small that it basically has the effect of changing the exhaust port timing at idle, and that at higher speeds it flows such a small amount that it basically does nothing. Is that correct? How much top end is actually gained by plugging the idle reliefs?

Hope I'm not hijacking this thread too bad, I figured a lot of guys reading this might gain some knowledge from Fazt's experience.
 

SparkieBoat

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Re: 60 degree looper150 HP rebuild thread

I am not sure what it does exactly. Faz said it would boost your compression by %10, which will defiantly help on mid and top end. the lower compression engines will idle better. but I had a 1996 150 GL model looper that had 115 PSI on all cylinders and it idled wonderfully. my though would be anything under 120-130 psi should idle fine on the V-6s.

Metric, I am not sure if the rod bolts were torqued correctly or not, but when I look at the cost to do this rebuild, I would say just run your motor like it is, if it is running fine. I have been counting up the cost, and actually may consider just putting my engine back together and running it. I was going to ship off my block today for machining, but after adding up all the cost, I am having second thoughts. I was thinking I could get this thing done for under $1K..but as it sits, I am looking at around $700 just for machine shop work and shipping and I am looking at around $600 in parts...getting to be more than I can spend right now..$700-800 was pushing my current budget.
 

BigBassin78

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Re: 60 degree looper150 HP rebuild thread

I was thinking of taking on this project as I have basically the same motor. I could throw $1500 at it but I would like to do it much cheaper, in fact I dont even know if it is necessary. All cylinders have between 93-103 and it idles and runs pretty quick. I just have other diagnostic issues to deal with first.
 

SparkieBoat

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Re: 60 degree looper150 HP rebuild thread

if compression is good what reason would you have for a rebuild? you can pop those heads off and verify cylinder condition. look for water intrusion, especially in the #1 and #3 cylinders. if you have one or two clean or partially clean pistons, then you have water intrusion..gonna cost you $650 + shipping per leaky hole + whatever other machine work needs to be done. So hope you do not have this problem, as it would be cheaper to buy another motor. I think the late 90s and 2000 motors did not have this problem as much as the early and mid 90s models.
 

SparkieBoat

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Re: 60 degree looper150 HP rebuild thread

I have order new crank seals and head seals. I am seriously considering just slapping this thing back together and running with it. the compression was not really that bad. the number 3 cylinder dropped only after I removed the heads and resealed them. the even side hit a smooth 90 PSI and the odd side was hitting right at 100 except for #3 which dropped from 95 to 85 after the head replace. must have been a head seal issue. cylinders look ok, the hone job could have been done better. I am going to check for out of round, I have a friend with a cylinder gauge. the bearings look new, crank looks ok, I will mic it. I may invest $200 in a quality hone. the rings are new. I just do not like the idea of having only #5 hole bored 020. but that is not a huge deal. I will call Faz in the morning so I can make a firm decision. It just comes down to money, I pay cash for all my toys, so if I dont have the money they just sit there till I do. Wife and I going to Freeport for 4 days week after Easter for our Anniversary, so all my cash is gone for a while. as long as I dont throw a rod, I can always come back to it in the fall or late summer.
 
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