60 degree v4, no spark

[fast_c_class]

So here is the problem
last year my 1997 v4 60 degree engine started to intermittently loose power and would eventually die and not restart. Turns out it would lose spark. Took it to a dealer, they replaced the power pack. I took it out again it died again. Being out of town I brought it to another dealer, they took it on a long test drive, it worked perfect of course. Now this spring months later, it won't spark. Today I tore into it hoping to see brown goo all over the stator, nope it visually looks new. However, I broke the trigger wheel taking it off, but did notice the wheel had a Crack where it is said to commonly breakout (not sure what break out means) I am not sure if the Crack would cause the problems or not.

Are there any tests with an ohm meter for a stator when the flywheel is off?

Are there tests for the rectifier and regulator with an ohm meter?

I replaced the ignition swich, lanyard and checked fuses last year.

 

[SparkieBoat]

follow the instructions below in my sig.

 

[Faztbullet]

Test the power coil........

 

[SparkieBoat]

those wheels do break easily and can mess up your timing/spark. but you should also DVA test your stator and rectifier and powerpack.

 

[fast_c_class]

I was hoping for a test that i could do without putting everything back together. I did a test on the power coil, the volt meter read 30 volts, i think the manual said it should be 50-60 or something (cant remember exactly) the stator was not shorted out. I was hoping to pull the stator and see some brown goo, or burnt stuff, but everything looked brand new.

I am pretty sure the powerpack is ok, it was replaced last year by a dealer. So assuming the new one isnt bad, that leaves the regulator and stator, and the wheel which is already on order since it was cracked (not sure if i did it prying it off)

so there is nothing to test else with an ohm meter as far as ther rectifier / regulator goes? I really hate to assemble and disasemble things.

 

[SparkieBoat]

just cause its new does mean its not the problem. always remember that. DVA test is the only way to confirm. put it back together and test it till you find the problem. they crack easy when you pry them off. order you an extra from ebay and keep them laying around for extras. they are cheap if you wait on them to come around. I picked some up for $10

 

[boobie]

It could also be a bad osi sensor.

 

[SparkieBoat]

yep it could. I got an extra one of those too. I think it came with a wheel and the whole top, everything that was plastic. I got it all together cheap off ebay.
I also made my own OIS sensor tester. Been so long ago I forgot how I did it, but it should be archived in the forums.

 

[woody66912]

Always replace the pack and sensor as a pair. If the replacement pack was OEM it would have come as a pair. the after market came as a stand alone part. After market would have blue secondary boots on them.

 

[SparkieBoat]

CDI also recommends replacing the stock plug wires, it seems like there was some kind of problem with the original ones having RF interference at high RPMs.
They sell a kit for $273 on ebay. part number [h=1]213-6292K 1[/h]