'60 Oxford Question

[keelbolts]

Hi,
I've been lurking about here for a few years now. I've been a sailor for 25 years, but, some years ago, I started thinking a classic fiberglass runabout was in my future. Well, the future's now as I just picked up a 1960 MFG Oxford. Really it's an Oxford hull as everything else is gone. It's been sitting in the back of a local yard for years & I brought it home yesterday.

Here's where I need some help from the MFG owners in the forum. For some reason, one of the previous owners removed the aluminum C channel "stringers." I'd really appreciate it if somebody would take some measurements on theirs for me so that I can put them back in. Thanks up front.

 

[sphelps]

Re: '60 Oxford Question

Welcome Keelbolts ! Sorry I cant help with the stringers but I'm sure the Oxford guys will chime in. How about some pics
Good luck with the restore!
S.P.

 

[keelbolts]

Re: '60 Oxford Question

Thanks for the welcome aboard. I'll try to post photos as it moves along. Perhaps I can get some before photos up before I start in on it. It should help most of you feel better about your projects.

As for my question about the stringer dimensions, it appears I'll also need dimensions and material info on the piece, on the outside of the hull, that it's attached to.

 

[SteveMFG_Oxford]

Re: '60 Oxford Question

I'd like to help but I have not removed my floors, so I have no idea about that aspect of the boat.

You may find some other interesting Oxford info and photos on my thread shown below.

Welcome to the group!

 

[bhammatt]

Re: '60 Oxford Question

I replaced my center stringer with a 12 foot 3" X 1 3/8" X 1/4 " aluminum c channel. The side stringers with 7'1 1/4" X 1 1/2" X 1/8" rectangular tube. These were bolted through holes in the hull to the wood skegs. This was how they were on my boat when I got her and I assumed it was original but I continue to be baffled as to why anyone would purposely put as many as 24 holes in the bottom of a fiberglass hull. Does anyone know for sure if this was original?

 

[keelbolts]

Re: '60 Oxford Question

Thanks bhammatt. I've seen a number of photos showing 3 metal pieces running fore & aft. I've assumed, based on the Aluminun C channel keelson that's still in my boat, that the other 2 were also C channels, but you now have tubes.

While I'm asking for info? How much were they? Where did you get them? How big are your wooden skegs? I've noticed, in photos, that there is some kind of piece, on the outside of the hull, where the fasteners pass thru for the stringers. I was afraid they were some kind of aluminum pieces like the shoe under the keelson. I'm relieved to hear they're wood. That's easier for me to fabricate.

Thanks for the reply Steve. I've watched your progress in the thread you referrenced. I'll try to get some photos up as soon as I figure out how.

 

[Jon Sob]

Re: '60 Oxford Question

Here's where I need some help from the MFG owners in the forum. For some reason, one of the previous owners removed the aluminum C channel "stringers." I'd really appreciate it if somebody would take some measurements on theirs for me so that I can put them back in. Thanks up front.

Hi Keelbolts ..... are you talking about these?

Is this what your hull looks like?

The center one originally went all the way to the transom just the way the other ones do but I added the bilge box so I cut the center one a little shorter. I didn't measure the length of them and I have already installed the sole so I am unable to measure them now.

The stringers are bolted thru the wooden keel and thru the hull.

This is the head of the bolt that was in the rotted keel.

Only the main stringer is bolted thru the hull into the keel. The others are attached to the main stringer and bolted thru the transom.

 

[keelbolts]

Re: '60 Oxford Question

Thanks Jon Sob,
That's what mine is supposed to look like, but a PO removed the two stringers, leaving only the main center one. I saw, perhaps in your thread, the rotten wood on the bottom. I didn't know there was wood there - oh boy! Mine's been sitting in the dirt at a boat yard for who knows how many years so I imagine mine is bad as well. I might just go wood on the stringers when I replace the wood on the bottom...

 

[Jon Sob]

Re: '60 Oxford Question

The reason that my keel was rotted was because someone put a patch on the keel that failed. In this pic you can see the patch or an attempt to patch what was a crack or hole:

I would think that if your keel is in good shape and not cracked then there would be no way for water to get to the wood in your keel to cause rot. I am by far no expert on boats so someone else may chime in and give you better advise.

If you already have the main stringer then you may be able to pick up some tubing or channel to use for the other two stringers. They are not as long and are not bolted to the hull. If you can see in the pic there is a piece of flat bar bolted to the main stringer and then bolted to the two shorter stringers at one end and then all three are bolted to the transom.

I know that they are pretty light in weight and I don't know what the weight difference is by using wood. I guess it all depends on what size and thickness wood that you use.

 

[SteveMFG_Oxford]

Re: '60 Oxford Question

If your are going wood instead of metal for the stringers you might consider pressure treated yellow pine. I was going to put in my transom until I decided plywood would be easier ( but far less rot resistant).

YP is pretty tough, rot resistant, hold screws pretty well and can me machined to shape. It would be nice if you could find some that wasn't so wet (like Home Depots usually is). I heard there is kiln dried pressure treated wood available.

Cedar is softer but rot resistant and easier to work.

Just a thought ...

 

[Jon Sob]

Re: '60 Oxford Question

If your are going wood instead of metal for the stringers you might consider pressure treated yellow pine. I was going to put in my transom until I decided plywood would be easier ( but far less rot resistant).

YP is pretty tough, rot resistant, hold screws pretty well and can me machined to shape. It would be nice if you could find some that wasn't so wet (like Home Depots usually is). I heard there is kiln dried pressure treated wood available.

Cedar is softer but rot resistant and easier to work.

Just a thought ...

When I was doing my transom I was told by people in the resto forum not to use pine because of the sap or whatever is in the pine because it will keep the resin from sticking to the wood. I was told to use an exterior grade fir. Not knowing a lot about wood or resins I went out and picked up a sheet of fir from the lumber yard. I also picked up a piece of fir for the keel as well. I think a 4x8 sheet was $29. My brother is a contractor and he told me the same about pine that's why they use fir for a sub floor for flooring because the adhesive doesn't bond to the pine. Also, from what I was told and read ... pressure treated wood has to be really dry before you seal it with a resin. Some guys were letting it sit for months to allow it to dry. Again, I am no expert but I am just passing along the info that was given to me during my resto.

 

[bhammatt]

Re: '60 Oxford Question

I was able to find the invoices for the aluminum stringers. After searching on line and unable to find stock in the dimensions that would replicate the originals I finally was able to get them from a local fabrication and welding shop (Walther Fabrication and Welding in Orleans, MA). He was able to get the larger, 12 ft center C channel. In 2006 I paid $9.75/foot for this. He was unable to get the 1 1/2 by 1 1/2 side pieces in a C channel so we ended up using the square tube. It was $7.78/foot for two eight foot lengths. I also bought some aluminum for the seats from Brunner Enterprises, Inc. of West Seneca, NY. While I didn't find any records I remember getting some stuff from McMaster-Carr. They are an amazing resource.
The side stringers, being smaller, don't come to the lever of the center stringer. To make the floor (that sits on the stringers) level the are caped with wood that tapers from 1" at the transom to about 3/8" at forward end under the front seat. I think I just cut this out of a 2X4.
The three bottom skegs on my boat looked like pressure treated yellow pine. I replaced them with oak; the side ones are 3/4 X 3/4 while the center one is 3/4 wide by 1" high.
While the open side of the C channel stock provided easy access to tighten down nuts on the bolts that go through the skeg, hull and stinger the square tube is a different matter. I ended up drilling holes in the side of the "tube" to get the nut on the bolt and then another through the top to be able to get a wrench to the nut. Where each bolt came through the bottom I built up a fiberglass pad between the ribs so that there was solid hull between the wood skeg and the aluminum stringer.
Hope this helps.

 

[keelbolts]

Re: '60 Oxford Question

That certainly did help. Thank you for your time & effort.

 

[Mark_VTfisherman]

Re: '60 Oxford Question

If your are going wood instead of metal for the stringers you might consider pressure treated yellow pine...

the old "CCA" would be ok BUT the new "ACQ" is very corrosive to aluminum