'61 Johnson 40hp ... moving on to control cables

[knehdn]

It's a 1961 model RDS-023.
OK... lost the mufflers and dropped it into a barrel. Checked compression first - 120 in each cylinder after several tests - a good start I'd say. Got it all hooked up to power and fuel. Took a few cranks, but it eventually started up but only ran if I moved the choke to open. I initially left it on automatic, but that didn't work. Once running, if I moved the choke back to automatic, it died. Why?
How does the automatic choke thing work?
Now that I know that the motor does indeed work, somewhat, I'll get to the task of cleaning the carb, and getting a kit for it, and then try to pick up a service manual (on the cheap side) so I can replace the coils, and points, and condensor, and impeller, and so on and so on.
But right now I would like some information on this automatic choke and how or when it kicks in or whatever.
Please and thank you.

 

[tx1961whaler]

Re: '61 Johnson 40hp working... somewhat?

Re: '61 Johnson 40hp working... somewhat?

The automatic choke didn't work real well even when it was new. Is the choke plate closing all of the way when it is set to Auto? Could be that the spring is gone that is supposed to keep it open when it's in Auto.
I have mine ('69) adjusted so it stays open all of the time, and use the electric solenoid to work it. I don't think the 1961 had the solenoid yet.....

 

[knehdn]

Re: '61 Johnson 40hp working... somewhat?

Re: '61 Johnson 40hp working... somewhat?

Yes, the choke plate is closed when set to automatic... and no, this one doesn't have the solenoid to control the choke. I guess when I take it apart I'll see about that spring you mention. I also guess I can leave the choke in the open position all the time. It only seemed to start and then run when it was open, or off to some folk; and this motor hasn't been run for a couple of years or so.
I'll update as I get deeper into it.
Thanks for the input Tx.

 

[tx1961whaler]

Re: '61 Johnson 40hp working... somewhat?

Re: '61 Johnson 40hp working... somewhat?

Yes, the choke plate is closed when set to automatic... and no, this one doesn't have the solenoid to control the choke. I guess when I take it apart I'll see about that spring you mention. I also guess I can leave the choke in the open position all the time. It only seemed to start and then run when it was open, or off to some folk; and this motor hasn't been run for a couple of years or so.
I'll update as I get deeper into it.
Thanks for the input Tx.

I've never really had to use the choke before, except for about 10 seconds to start it up the first time in the day, but you may need something better up there in the cold country....there is a diagram of the choke here (pg 10):
http://www.marineengine.com/parts/v...ntage-evinrude-johnson/378462/37846200001.htm

 

[knehdn]

Re: '61 Johnson 40hp working... somewhat?

Re: '61 Johnson 40hp working... somewhat?

In the cold country??? It's 10pm, and it's 26C (79F) feeling like 33C (91F). Finally warm enough to lose my touque and mitts...hehehe

Appreciate the link to the parts catalogue. I'll print it off tomorrow and have a look at what's what.
Thanks again.

 

[bktheking]

Re: '61 Johnson 40hp working... somewhat?

Re: '61 Johnson 40hp working... somewhat?

My igloo melted last month

 

[knehdn]

Re: '61 Johnson 40hp working... somewhat?

Re: '61 Johnson 40hp working... somewhat?

..... and by the time I get this running right, I'll need to get on the snowthrower fix'em-up site.

 

[knehdn]

Re: '61 Johnson 40hp working... somewhat?

Re: '61 Johnson 40hp working... somewhat?

Now back to the motor... need info on how the automatic choke operates. There is a vertical spring on the lever on the right side of the carb. Presently the spring is forward of the brass stud on the cam of the butterfly valve mechanism...is this its correct position? Or should it be aft of the brass stud... cuz when I place it aft, and the lever is in automatic, the butterfly valve opens (choke off)? I've posted a picture hoping the spring and stud is visible. I can't tell by the parts diagram how the spring is to be located.
As alway, advice is greatly appreciate.
Thank you

 

[bktheking]

Re: '61 Johnson 40hp working... somewhat?

Re: '61 Johnson 40hp working... somewhat?

Take a clearer pic, I've got a small pdf that explains the 2 different choke setups if you want it.

 

[knehdn]

Re: '61 Johnson 40hp ... carb question?

Re: '61 Johnson 40hp ... carb question?

See if this one's any better. If not, I'll try again tomorrow; but I'll have a look at the PFD. Will send PM.

 

[tx1961whaler]

Re: '61 Johnson 40hp ... carb question?

Re: '61 Johnson 40hp ... carb question?

I'd get out to the boat and look, but it's pouring down rain here. On mine, the spring is such that it is always trying to keep the choke butterfly open

 

[bktheking]

Re: '61 Johnson 40hp ... carb question?

Re: '61 Johnson 40hp ... carb question?

See if this one's any better. If not, I'll try again tomorrow; but I'll have a look at the PFD. Will send PM.

From memory, that spring goes on the other side of the stud, (right side of the stud and locks in place into the slot).

 

[knehdn]

Re: '61 Johnson 40hp ... carb question?

Re: '61 Johnson 40hp ... carb question?

Thanks BK. Makes sense to me that it should be where you say, to the right of the brass stud. Be interesting to see where TX's spring is placed. I think he's got a helluva storm coming his way.
Next week, I'll start in earnest in locating a local Johnson parts source that's not a stealership.

 

[tx1961whaler]

Re: '61 Johnson 40hp ... carb question?

Re: '61 Johnson 40hp ... carb question?

Here's a pic (between thunderstorms)

 

[bktheking]

Re: '61 Johnson 40hp ... carb question?

Re: '61 Johnson 40hp ... carb question?

There ya go, the other right side

 

[knehdn]

Re: '61 Johnson 40hp ... carb question?

Re: '61 Johnson 40hp ... carb question?

Thanks for the photo TX. Well, that's where mine is, but my auto choke doesn't seem to want to work. I'll take the whole carb and choke assembly apart and clean it up... once I find a carb kit that is.

Now about dropping the lower unit to check/replace the impeller... once both inspection plates (outer and inner) have been removed and moved, and you can see the link with the two bolts between the upper and lower rods.... does it matter which bolt you remove? In a video I watched, it appeared that the upper bolt was removed. Is there a specific reason that the upper bolt was removed, i.e. ease of re-assembly?
Please and thank you.

 

[lindy46]

Re: '61 Johnson 40hp ... carb questions answered - moving onto lower unit removal?

Re: '61 Johnson 40hp ... carb questions answered - moving onto lower unit removal?

You can remove either one - I always remove the bottom one. Seems easier to me to get at and easier to get the lower shift rod back in the coupler than to get the coupler back over the upper shift rod.

 

[knehdn]

Re: '61 Johnson 40hp ... lower unit removed. Bad impeller!

Re: '61 Johnson 40hp ... lower unit removed. Bad impeller!

OK, dropped the lower unit ... had that extra bolt under the rear housing (glad I paid attention).
The impeller is really pooched. The end of one vane had broken off and adhered to the end of another. Glad I decided to have a look. The rest seems alright, but what do I know? It's the first time I've had any hands-on experience... with outboards. Please have a look at the pictures and offer opinions... cuz we all luv pictures and I need the advise.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: '61 Johnson 40hp ... lower unit removed. Bad impeller!

Re: '61 Johnson 40hp ... lower unit removed. Bad impeller!

I have the manual for that motor. Send me a private message with your email address and I will send you a copy.

 

[F_R]

Re: '61 Johnson 40hp ... lower unit removed. Bad impeller!

Re: '61 Johnson 40hp ... lower unit removed. Bad impeller!

Tx's photo is correct, the spring goes forward of the stud. The spring is what closes the choke when the lever is in the "choke on" position. It is a spring so that it can be opened by the vacuum diaphragm. Keep reading.

Here's how it works (or is supposed to):

With the manual lever in the automatic position, the choke shaft is free to rotate full closed to full open without being influenced by the manual lever. There is a bi-metal spring inside the red housing. That bi-metal spring will be holding the choke closed when the motor is cool. When you start the motor, a vacuum is applied to the square diaphragm housing below the red housing. That vacuum diaphragm pulls the choke part way open, against the tension of the bi-metal spring. That is so the motor can kep running without being over-choked during warm-up. But the bi-metal spring is still partially choking it to keep if from stalling from not enough fuel for the cold engine.

Now, the bi-metal spring: That is temperature sensitive and relaxes its tension as it heats up. Water from the cooling system flows through the red housing, heating it up, and as it does it heats the bi-metal spring. So, when the motor is fully warmed up, the red housing is warmed up, the bi-metal spring is warmed up, and the choke opens fully. Yeah, right. Keep reading.

Note that the bi-metal spring will never reach operating temperature if the motor's thermostat isn't working.

As somebody has already said, the whole scheme didn't work well even when new. I would go even further and say they are garbage. Almost every owner soon learned to open the door, put the manual lever in automatic and cold-start the motor. Then push it back to "choke off" position, close the door and be on their way. When the motor is warm, simply turn the key and go.