65 40hp superseahorse conversion

[foxman623]

It may be a long one so strap in. I have several Questions for you guy's but will start with this. I found a 65 40hp Electric shift for 100.00 dollars that actually runs good. I am putting this motor on a 16ft Monark wide bottom flat.I made a console from a old filing cabinet and will bolt it down to the deck. The controls I have has the red switch for Idle and it is broke at were the knob would be on top. Will i have to replace the whole unit or could I get just the red item.I tried to make a side peice and screw it to the red peice inside but the way it is configured in side the controls is to tight.

 

[surlyjoe]

Re: 65 40hp superseahorse conversion

do you mean the sdjustment screw for the idle speed on the controls??

 

[DJ]

Re: 65 40hp superseahorse conversion

These guys will probably have what you are looking for.<br /><br />www.twincityoutboard.com

 

[foxman623]

Re: 65 40hp superseahorse conversion

The adjustment screw is black and underneath. I men the red handle on the controls.

 

[foxman623]

Re: 65 40hp superseahorse conversion

Thanx DJ, I sent them an e-mail, now for # 2.The stering system I got is a Morse rack system. The cable is about 9-12in too long. Can I cut the end that connects to the steering link to fit or will I have to replace the whole cable.And #3,can someone direct me to a web sight to get some or diagrams advise for the mounting the cables for the steering. #4 is concerning the key switch. I can crank with the key but when I turn the key off the motor still runs?

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: 65 40hp superseahorse conversion

Can't help you with the steering, but with the shutoff thing - that's controlled by the two magneto lines. These are the two black wires that ultimately come down from up underneath the flywheel. One connects into the vaccum cutout switch and then jumps into the wiring harness. The other should go straight into the wiring harness. These run up to the keyswitch where each should connect to one of the "M" labled terminals. When the switch is shut off, these two terminals are connected together, killing spark. <br />Trace through those wires and you should find the problem. You could even try shorting them together at the keyswitch to see if that stops the outboard. Watch out though, they bite.

 

[surlyjoe]

Re: 65 40hp superseahorse conversion

If its a Morse brand, there is no cutting it, cant you just pull the slack back in the boat somewhere?

 

[foxman623]

Re: 65 40hp superseahorse conversion

Thanx Paul M, I will try it this weekend. And thanx Scrumbler, but if I had that much slack I would'nt be asking about cutting, lolololol. Thanx tho.

 

[surlyjoe]

Re: 65 40hp superseahorse conversion

I may have the red arm if you shoot me a pic, I have a couple newer (well newer than 1960) controls I can part out.<br /><br />surlyjoe@aoaforums.com

 

[foxman623]

Re: 65 40hp superseahorse conversion

I sent you the pics today. Thanx SCRUMBLER.

 

[foxman623]

Re: 65 40hp superseahorse conversion

Surleyjoe did you get my pics of the red arm for electricshift or do I need to send them again?

 

[surlyjoe]

Re: 65 40hp superseahorse conversion

ya, its newer than the ones I have.. sry

 

[foxman623]

Re: 65 40hp superseahorse conversion

Paul moir, I looked and don't see 2 black wires coming out from the fly wheel. The wires that are on my key ignition are 1 black and one black w/ white stripe. I tried them but it didn't work . Anyother ideas! Also can someone tell me how hard it would be to put a TNTrim on this old motor? And will a push button eletric shift work for this motor.65 40hp electrimatic.Thanx guy's

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: 65 40hp superseahorse conversion

That sounds right at the key end. Sometimes they were both black but somtimes one had a white stripe. There really ought to be some wires that originate between the flywheel and the block, take a close look. One ought to run to the vaccum cutout switch which I think is mounted to the block pretty close to centre on the starboard side. The wire that attaches to the middle of that ought to be one of them.<br /><br />As for the controls, make sure they're for a "Selelectric" rather than "Hydroelectric" setup. The Hydroelectric setup appeared on late 60s triples (first triples) and made it's way on to V4s in the 70s. Those ones work a little different, and if you use them when you put the engine in neutral, it'll put your engine into forward and reverse at the same time. Which ain't great!