66' Fastwin - How to Remove Crankcase Cover

rickycobble

Cadet
Joined
Sep 13, 2016
Messages
28
To split the crankcase, does the head and reed plate cover have to come off and remove (6) main bearing bolts? Manual says to do it, just wanted make sure before I have to pull the head off.
 

F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,226
Yep, there are bolts behind the reed plate. Cylinder head does not have to come off unless for some other reason. Powerhead does have to come off the midsection housing.

Knock the taper pins out of the crankcase flange before trying to get it apart. They are tapered, so you have to tap them out in the right direction.
 

rickycobble

Cadet
Joined
Sep 13, 2016
Messages
28
No Title

I split the crankcase on the Fastwin because, after rebuilding the carb, putting on a new fuel pump, and doing the link and sync, I could not get the motor to idle correctly and noticed a lot of gas/oil build up on the side of the crankcase and bottom of the housing. To me it looks pretty suspect. I can't say that I see any sealant was used on the crankcase. When I pulled it apart, the mating surface had gas/oil wet spots all around it. It easily wiped off clean with a paper towel, with no evidence of gummy, rubber or otherwise any kind of sealant. I have the Scotch-weld 847 on order to seal it, as well as new upper and lower seals and bearings. A few questions/observations:

1) I wanted to post some pictures to see what you guys had say from having split crankcase halves apart and what you'd expect them to look like with a normal seal.
2) I notice the top section of the crankshaft/rod area has carbon deposits, where as the lower area is clean. Would this be normal or would that tell you to look for something?
3) If you see anything else in these pics I should investigate, I'd really appreciate it.
 

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racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
38,437
That looks very typical of one of those motors.------You are not supposed to see a thick film of sealer either !----It is a metal to metal joint and it must be metal to metal to properly clamp the bearings.-----Use the proper sealer on re-assembly.---That would be factory gel seal or loctite 518 in this case.--Surfaces must be absolutely clean and free of bumps and burrs.
 

cals4200

Cadet
Joined
Sep 18, 2016
Messages
21
I have a 68 Fastwin and I hope I dont have to take it down that far. I just got mine from my neighbor it has been sitting at least 10 years. The motor is hard to pull with starter rope. First thing I did was take out plugs and put some oil in both cylinders let set and it is still hard to pull any advise would be appreciated. I have read since it has been run in saltwater you should let it set for a while, Is that true?
 
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