'66 Woodson Restoration with pics

tashasdaddy

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Re: What am I about to get myself into?

Re: What am I about to get myself into?

what type of restoration does it need. if the deck needs to be replaced the rigging for the motor is a piece of cake. you get all your lines run before the new deck goes in. if not then they have to be snaked thru. when you get it get some pictures up, and we will get you thru it. i've done many restorations, it's addictive.

posting pictures: http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=224951
 

drewpster

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Re: What am I about to get myself into?

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The control arm you are referring to is known as a tiller. The console control is commonly known as a helm.
I think once you get into it you will find that the helm controls are not all that complicated. Normally a helm controlled boat uses a steering wheel connected to a gear box that uses a simple push/pull cable to provide steering. The gear box is normally located directly behind the steering wheel inside the console. The cable is hidden in areas under the sides or in the bottom of the boat back to the engine. Complete steering systems are commonly available including here on the iboats site.

http://www.iboats.com/Boat_Steering_Systems/dm/*******.239775104--**********.494171082--category_id.217122--view_id.217122--search_type.category

Most helm controlled outboards have all of the electrical connection points located under the engine cover. Some older outboards have all these connections labled so you know whats what. (start, ignition, battery ect.) Other outboards use a specific wire harness (group of wires bundled together) that must be used. If you have to do any extensive wiring or if you are going to use a different outboard it is a good idea to get a manual for that engine. It is also a good idea to buy a book on marine electrical systems so you have a clearer view of things. It not all that complicated, however marine electrics have thier own set of challenges. Here is a good starter book.
http://www.iboats.com/12_Volt_Bible_for_Boats_2nd_ed_/dm/keywords.electrical%20book--**********.494171082--*******.239775104--list_time.1195485043--view_id.11202
 

SgtMaj

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wildmaninal

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Re: What am I about to get myself into?

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I'm not to sure that you'll be able to find a small 10hp to 15hp in a helm controlled style, most of them are going to be tiller steered types. Not to say that you can't convert it to a helm controlled. A small motor like you mentioned will only be a kicker motor (back up motor) for that boat if it's as big as I'm thinking it is. What size boat is it? This will give us a better idea on what kind of HP you'll need to push it. Check this link out for an idea of the prices, Note that some of these motors are newer and some are 4 strokes they will have it distinguished on what is what.

'http://www.boatmotors.com/rebuilt_outboard_motors/[/url]

Another place to try would be Smalloutboards.com
 

SgtMaj

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tashasdaddy

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Re: What am I about to get myself into?

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do it right, even if you spend more, the pride of doing it yourself, is worth it.
 

SgtMaj

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wildmaninal

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SgtMaj I don't think Tashasdaddy was referring to the motor as much as he was referring to the restoration part of the boat. If you do the restoration do it right, don't put a band aid on it, take and get all of the rotten wood out of it and replace it with new, so on so on. I think there are allot of us that would go for a used motor here on Iboats. The link I showed in an earlier post doesn't just show new it also shows used motors.
 

tashasdaddy

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Re: What am I about to get myself into?

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fiberglass boats have wooded skeletons, stringers, transom, deck. i ment to do the boat restoration right. i haven't bought a new motor or boat since 1969. let the other guy eat the showroom depreciation, is my moto.
 

Fish n Geer

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Re: What am I about to get myself into?

Re: What am I about to get myself into?

Why cant they make the stringers and transom out of some other material than the wood that is going to rot?Seems that with all of the technology today it wouldnt be a problem.
 

tashasdaddy

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some manufacturers are. my Chris Craft deck boat, is a no wood boat. they also pass the extra cost on the the purchaser. you pay for what you get. a wooden core boat, is fine as long as it is properly maintained, and covered.
 

wildmaninal

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Another problem I realized that I will have, I had planned on stripping it down, then flipping it upside down to sand and repaint the hull. However, the boat is MUCH heavier than I had originally thought, so I won't be able to flip it over with only 2-3 people. Anybody have any ideas on how to do that?

On flipping the boat, do you have a hoist stand or stands that you may able to use. Something like an A frame to hang your hoist on some people use these to pull motors out of cars.

Check this posting out it may give you some ideas of how to build a structure to hoist the boat.​

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=227810
 

Nandy

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Re: What am I about to get myself into?

Re: What am I about to get myself into?

What am I about to get myself into?
After reading the information that you have provided I’m guessing that you have gotten in much more than what you thought you were getting into. Hopefully I am wrong.

I have made 5 restorations so far and repair 3 motors, not a master but have some experience. This place is the best place for information, before, during and after the purchase of a boat. You should have come before buying a boat that sounds like a lot of work and money if you are going to do it right. I would have advised to use them $1500 to buy a boat that was running and you have had the chance to see if it performed as you wanted in the condition that you will frequently face. Too late now for that...

You need to find all that is wrong in this boat, inspect every corner, deck, hull, transom, etc… Take photos and post them here. You will not run out of advice, good advice. Then sit down and calculate how much will it take to fix the boat properly, then add the price of an used motor (35 to 50 hp sound about right for that size), get an idea of the time it will take to fix it then make the commitment if you think it is worth it.

If you decide to go with it you will learn a lot from the boat construction. It will help you greatly in your next purchase and you will have a huge satisfaction every time you use the boat. Also, don’t expect to be able to sell the boat to recoup your expenses. Generally, that never happens.

The forum will help you in any way possible, these are great folks!
 

Nandy

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Re: What am I about to get myself into?

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It sound like you have made up your mind with this boat. I can better answer your title question now; you got into a lot of work. Also, I don’t see the center console you talked about in you op. Is this a different boat? The boat I see in the pictures looks to me to be an open bow tri-hull, not a runabout, but I might be wrong.
Try to find the coast guard plate. It will tell you how big the vessel is, maximum horse power, maximum load in amount of people and weight, and the total load weight adding motor, people and all the other stuff you put in the boat (anchor, seats, ice chest, etc…). There are formulas to calculate the above numbers if that plate is missing. That plate is generally riveted in a visible area inside the boat. I did a search for your boat maker and did not find much info so I cannot tell you precisely but by the photos I saw I got the feeling that the plate will be in the left side of the helm. If you can’t find it, (some old boats don’t have it) then look for he HIN. With the HIN you can go to a website and find some of that information. I can’t find the link now but I'm sure someone will chime in with it. The HIN is located in the starboard side of the transom, outside of the boat. Woodson use WDN as the first 3 letters of the number. This HIN should be in your bill of sales and probably in your registration papers if you live in a registration state. That will give you and us some references.

Let me give you a few pointers and some of the other members will surely follow.

Gunwale crack – Never seen a boat that a gunwale will crack like that under a person weight. If anyone has seen this before please keep me straight. Possible something really heavy was put there or something struck it. You should be able to fix the crack and replace the wood. Also, I would call that the upper deck, not gunwale.

Deck – you will probably have to replace the entire deck and the stringers. Usually when one is gone the other one is also, you will have to use a circular saw to cut the deck out, fiberglass and wood at the same time. After you get that out you should be able to see if the stringers are good or not and the state of your floatation foam. IF the foam is soaked in water it will make your boat very heavy and will promote rot in your deck and stringers. If your foam is soaked it needs out.

Transom – If there is a crack, there is a chance the water got into the wood. If the stringers are rotted there is another reason to take a close look at the transom. One way to check for rot is to hit the transom with a rubber mallet. For me is hard to explain but good wood and rotted wood don’t sound the same. Good wood will sound crisp while rotted wood will sound muffled, thud instead of tad… Man, did I confuse you now! LOL! The only definite way to know if you have rot in the transom will be to cut the fiberglass layer of the inside of the transom, remove it and do an ocular inspection. This is not a light decision. If anyone has more or better advice there I will appreciate it. I have the feeling that having a motor and a transducer “professionally” installed will cost you more than $200, if anyone has done this please chime in, I done all my work myself. If you are capable of doing this restoration there is no reason why mounting the motor should be a problem for you and I would advise you to do it yourself.

Bottom paint – Before you do any painting below the water line you need to decide if the boat will be hauled by trailer to the boating area or will it stay in water most of the time if not all the time. If the boat will stay in the water for the most time you will have to use paint designed for boats that stay in the water all the time, regular paint will not work. If the boat will be in and out the water then your options for paint are wider and the prices will be more forgiving.

If you want to roll your boat you might want to do that after taking the upper deck off. That way it will be a bit lighter. Also if you have to do any repairs, like the one in your “gunwale” (upper deck) is better to do them from the inside (fiberglass) of the boat instead of the outside (gel coat). To take your upper deck off you will have to remove the rub rail and any nail-screw-staple-rivet keeping the upper deck attached to the hull then pull it apart from the hull.

I also see that you are planning to have somewhere around 4 adults and 2 kids or 5 adults in the boat. That might be a bit too much weight for that boat. Actually, it might even be illegal. I have a similar boat. The max capacity is 4 adults or 800 pounds. I have a 50 hp motor on it and the max hp I can have is a 85hp. When I have 2 adults on it I can go as fast as 27 mph when WOT (wide open throttle) when I have 2 adults and 2 teens on it, less than 600 pounds the boat crawls to 10 miles an hour at wot. Both setups include the ice chest with food and the other common things I take on a trip. What I am trying to say is, just because you have space to sit so many people it does not means you can do that. In average, to have that many people in a boat you might have to be looking at 18 footers and larger boats with 120 hp min.

It will be good to share where are you located and where do you intend to use the boat and what type of use (fishing, cruising, skiing, etc…) as these might have an effect on how will you go around your restoration. I'm afraid you will be close to 1K in just repairing everything I have gone over. Add the price of the motor and you will surely be very close, if not over the 1.5 k. However, like tashadaddy said, the sense of accomplishment that you will get after done is impossible to describe. Also, if you do the repairs right you will have a boat for years to come.

Good luck, we will be here to help.
 

wildmaninal

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Re: What am I about to get myself into?

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wildmaninal, that's a good idea, I already have one hook in the ceiling that used to hold a punching bag, but it's reinforced enough in the attic that it could easily hold 500+ lbs, so maybe I could use that. One thing I don't understand though, is once the belt is around the boat, how is it hoisted?.


Get you a winch (chain hoist), one big enough to accommodate the weight of the boat hull. You could use 2" straps (like a truck driver uses on strapping a load on a flat bed trailer) use the 2" straps to make a cradle for lifting the hull. You got to make sure that the sealing supports will hold the weight of the boat where the weight wont bring down the roof and all. :) I can't be held responsible for that LOL. But it sounds like you will need 2 hoists, and 2 anchor spots on the overhead beams to hook the hoists to, one to lift one end of the hull and the other to lift the other end of the hull. I have no earthly idea how willing he would be to help but QC the man that started that thread I mentioned earlier in this post, I would say e-mail him through his aviator and ask for more details. Or bump/start your own post in that thread "what size beam" up under non boating technical topics and see if these guys can give you some advice. Or start you a new thread all together in that area of the forum to get some help from the guys.
 
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