'66 Woodson Restoration with pics

SgtMaj

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I can't imagine doing this in a day... :eek:

Would be fun trying though. :D

I still have more prep to do in other areas though... like most of the rest of the boat... so I guess it'll be slow going for a while yet. Oh well, that's ok, this little victory is enough to be a pick me up for the rest of it.

I started to sand it, but it got pretty gummy and I was going through sandpaper pretty fast, so I left it for today and warmed it up to 75 to get the cure going faster. We'll see a little later tonight if it's ready. Maybe right after the airplane on a treadmill mythbusters episode.
 

oops!

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my discovery channel is showing repeats so im gonna miss it....

it wont fly...needs air movement over the wings to create lift....doesnt matter how fast the ground speed is.....

if the plane was going 100 mph with a 100 mph tail wind it would not fly.

any hoo. im going to start a crucial step on my resto on thurs....got it ground down right to the hull...every things out.

now lets see if all the planning ive done is correct....ill post picks
 

SgtMaj

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But the propeller should be pulling it through the air instead of over the ground... so if you have a 100mph tailwind, the plane will be travelling at 200mph... which is the same as 100mph airspeed.

I havn't seen the setup yet, are they doing the experiment the same way it was posted in the forum, or are they keeping the plane stationary on a small treadmill?
 

SgtMaj

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AAA4.jpg


Fun with paint...

The cargo hold is comming along nicely I think... finish this coat, and add one more, and it'll be done... maybe by Wednesday.

SgtMaj
 

oops!

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atta go bud

i just stalled on mine

oops
 

drewmitch44

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what kinda paint is that?
 

SgtMaj

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That's oil based exterior primer... $10 at home depot. The top coat will also be an oil based exterior paint. I know that's not ideal for a boat, but I think it will be ok since it is only going in the enclosed cargo hold area and under the deck (I don't really know why I want to paint under the deck, I just do) which I won't be able to see.

Anyway, I'm glad I went with that, because Just the cargo hold took 1/3 quart for one coat... So I'll end up using 2 quarts just on those areas. For the rest of it I'll most likely use interlux brightsides.
 

SgtMaj

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Well I thought I was almost done here, when good ole Murphy showed up again. I totally forgot about the drains from the bow upper deck. So last night I sanded down through the paint and drilled the holes, threaded some tubing and cemented them in place with some bondo. Only problem is bondo doesn't bond at all with the tubing, so naturally the tubing just came right out. I'll have to wait 'til I get some more poly resin to finish it up.
 

salamonieryan

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wow that is a full blown restro. I am realy hoping my boat does not need that much work. the floor is solid and it has spent its life stored inside so my fingers are crossed. We have a 1978 sea sprite tri haul with a 4 cyl i/o that ran great last yr. I want to make several upgrades to it tho and that involves getting under the floor.
Your project looks great!! and you will have a awesome boat when you are finished

Ryan
 

SgtMaj

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wow that is a full blown restro. I am realy hoping my boat does not need that much work. the floor is solid and it has spent its life stored inside so my fingers are crossed. We have a 1978 sea sprite tri haul with a 4 cyl i/o that ran great last yr. I want to make several upgrades to it tho and that involves getting under the floor.
Your project looks great!! and you will have a awesome boat when you are finished

Ryan

Ryan,
Yours probably won't be so bad, since it stayed indoors. Mine was left outside, uncovered for several years before I bought it. The deck was so rotten that I had to be careful where I stepped, otherwise my foot would go straight through (which was of major concern originally as rodent inhabitants hadn't been ruled out as a possibility yet). :eek:
Still, I have plenty more work to do... I havn't even finished off the cargo hold yet. Once I do though, My thoughts will have to shift back to the upper deck, as there won't be much stopping me from putting that back on (well, once I finish the transom project that is... and that should be complete around the beginning of next month.

SgtMaj
 

oops!

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how is that transom comin srg?

what ya on now?

oops
 

SgtMaj

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how is that transom comin srg?

what ya on now?

oops

Transom's still sitting there unfinished for another week... 2 more and I should have the materials to finish it.

I've just been plugging away at some finishing work in the "cargo hold" area. I think I'm nearing the end of the work I need to do there, but I'll need to put down at least one more bit of bondo to make it perfect.

After that, I'm going to look into trying to sand and add a layer of glass to the inside hull under the cargo hold. This should prove... interresting at best. The more I think about it, the more I think I should have cut away the glass on the bottom of the cargo hold to expose the full hull so that I could work on it properly, then replace the glass on the cargo hold deck. I could still do that with a dremel and a lot of patience... but I REALLY don't want to. The other option is to contort my body in such ways that I will surely be scarred for life to get up under there and sand, and clean, and glass. That, is not going to be fun. The good news though, is that once that's done, I can work on getting the upper deck back in shape to put it back on. Speaking of which...

Working on the cargo hold gave me a better idea for shoring up the upper deck bow area strength. Originally I was going to replace this piece of half-inch ply with 3/4 inch, but after doing the cargo hold, and going from something that couldn't hold a 10lb weight to something I can stand on (all 300 lbs of me) without giving at all, with only 4 layers of roven woving and one layer of mat. So I'm thinking, why not do the same thing for the upper deck? I know fiberglass is heavier than the wood, but it wouldn't be as thick, so I think it would still come out lighter in the end. What do you think I should do?
 

oops!

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ok sarg.......couple of things.......


#1 why do u feel u need to strenghten the hull?
glass is strongest on a curve. and a tri has lots.

if u really feel u need to.....then open the puppy up and get'er done..!
a dremmel is i fine tool for.... fine work.....but would you build a highway with a spoon?..... grab a grinder and go for it...

as far as strengthenig the deck with thicker ply.....:D:D:D...i like doing one better than the manufacturers think...:D
ok so you add 75 lbs of glass and resin...100 lbs?....who cares?
(sorry for my spelling...im stoned on glass fuimes...again...:eek:)

btw....you..me..drew.... john...and a few others are all in this togeather....one guy hurts cause of a hard day grinding....we all do!
go for it!

btw...isnt it time for more pics?
man i wish ...in the spring we could all have a beer togeather when were done.....mabe we could all open one at the same time ...on line...that would be cool...
cheers
oops
 

SgtMaj

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ok sarg.......couple of things.......


#1 why do u feel u need to strenghten the hull?
glass is strongest on a curve. and a tri has lots.

if u really feel u need to.....then open the puppy up and get'er done..!
a dremmel is i fine tool for.... fine work.....but would you build a highway with a spoon?..... grab a grinder and go for it...

as far as strengthenig the deck with thicker ply.....:D:D:D...i like doing one better than the manufacturers think...:D
ok so you add 75 lbs of glass and resin...100 lbs?....who cares?
(sorry for my spelling...im stoned on glass fuimes...again...:eek:)

btw....you..me..drew.... john...and a few others are all in this togeather....one guy hurts cause of a hard day grinding....we all do!
go for it!

btw...isnt it time for more pics?
man i wish ...in the spring we could all have a beer togeather when were done.....mabe we could all open one at the same time ...on line...that would be cool...
cheers
oops


I should have some more pics by monday... hopefully.

I want to strengthen the hull (mostly the keel) because I like to bash into rocks (not really, but I do like to fish around them, and when the wrong wake hits, that has meant hitting the rocks in the past). I'm not planning to do a whole lot to it, but a 6 or 8 inch wide strip of woven roving running down the keel will definately make me feel better about it anyway. Sure, I still plan to add a keel guard to the outside too, but nothing beats a nice thick layer of glass in my opinion.

I also need to do it to solve another problem I'm facing down there. I decided to create the tank for the livewell entirely out of glass instead of ordering the aluminum one and mounting it. That'll save me about $100 and it'll be a lot easier and neater since 4 of the 5 walls are already there by structural design. for the 5th wall however, I need to seal in front and behind it. The best way for me to do that I think, is to make a crease in a layer of glass that I can seal it to. That doesn't make sense saying it, but I know what it looks like in my mind... I'll post some pics as I work on it so you'll get the idea too.

I was thinking of the dremel for cutting out that cargo hold deck because it wouldn't make a wide cut through the glass deck, so I could re-attach the same deck with less work once finished... but the more I think about it, the more I just want to contort myself in a painful position. :D I'm too close to being finished with that cargo hold to mess it up now.

Oh, you'll get a kick out of my next set of pics with the drain tubes that'll go from the upper deck out the side... I'm durn proud of this bit myself. Maybe I'll post some tomorrow.
 

jcsercsa

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We all want to see !!!! John
 

Robj

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I just had a quick scroll through your posts will read them when I have more time. Just one observation, before you glass, you should grind down all the gellcoat, to the old glass or you will not get a good bond. This is really important with structural areas. Use a 24 or 36 grit disc on your grinder, they work great. You need to enjoy the fibreglass dust like the rest of us have. Make sure you wear a mask.

Have a great day,

Rob.
 

jcsercsa

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btw....you..me..drew.... john...and a few others are all in this togeather....one guy hurts cause of a hard day grinding....we all do!
go for it!

btw...isnt it time for more pics?
man i wish ...in the spring we could all have a beer togeather when were done.....mabe we could all open one at the same time ...on line...that would be cool...
cheers
oops[/QUOTE]
Go for it Sarg, I agree with ooos, time to get ichy with the rest of us !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! lol
I agree and I am in for that beer, wouldnt it be cool if we could do it in our boats !!!!!! john
 

SgtMaj

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Boat2.jpg


Here's that drain tube I was telling you about. First I built up a layer of bondo around where it ends at the fiberglass, then glued it to that bondo with some 5200. The tube itself is just some clear flexible tubing from home depot. Next I'll just thread the other end that's hanging over the edge through the upper deck, and glue and bondo the inside edge, then cut off the excess. I'm proud of it anyway.

Boat1.jpg


Here's the cargo hold, finished at last. you can see that space under the finished area? That's where I'm going to grind and work on... and you can see why I'm going to have to contort myself to work on it... but I don't want to mess up that cargo hold that I worked so hard on, plus, opening it would create other problems.

Anyway... next up I think is going to be finishing that transom, then finishing the gunwales, that way I can work on the upper deck and re-attach it so that it's out of my way in the shop. THEN I'll work under that spot and on the rest of it.

I know there's not much difference between these pics and the last... that bad bondo mix really sapped me of a lot of time.

Anyway, that's it. That's all the photos I have at the moment. I'll get more tomorrow as I do some more work... might even buy me one of those 4 1/2 inch grinders tomorrow.
 

SgtMaj

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Well I ordered the rest of the seacast I'll need to finish the transom (and then some). With the extra, I want to fill the metal tube on the trailer that holds the winch. It's hollow and open at the top, so it fills with water and rusts, so if I can get that filled in, then it will look better, and won't rust. Hopefully the seacast will arrive by Thursday as I'll be gone Friday, and would love to have this finished before next weekend.

On the transom, as I'm sure you're all aware, I had made the mistake of not properly bracing the transom when pouring the seacast, which made it bulge out and threw off my seacast amount calculations. I honestly would have been better off not trying to brace it at all, but since I half-assed it, there are some areas on the outer transom that are a bit uneven, by about a milimeter or two. It's enough that it'll be noticable once the paint job is done, so I want to smooth it all out. I don't think I can get them all smoothed out with this second seacast pour in which I'm not going to use any bracing at all, so I'm wondering what my options are to smooth it all out. The unevenness is just deep enough that I'm afraid to just try to sand it smooth, as I would be wearing the glass in the raised areas down a bit too thin for my liking. Does that pretty much leave me with having to do a layup on the outside just so I can sand it smooth? Or is this a job for peanut butter?
 

jcsercsa

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Hay Sarg, I would go for the peanut butter , unless you really ground the glass right out of them spots.... what i was thinking of doing on mine was the marine-tex on the outer hull !!! I just ground out the transom area on mine and had them dimples on mine also I kind of hit them with the grinder not all that hard , when I put the new transom in i am going to have so much epoxy in there it will fill any gaps , so the outer hull the marie tex , John
 
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