'67 Starchief hull question

[pxlxr]

I just picked up a battle-weary but fully functional Starchief. She waited until I told her I loved her before she showed me how much water she takes on. About a gallon every few hours. :facepalm:

I would love to do a full resto. Been reading over lots of those threads here and it is enticing, but at the moment, I don't have a very good space to work in, and spring chinook season is just starting, so......

To find where my hull is compromised- I know to fill the hull with water and look for leaks, but how much h2o is necessary, and is it possible to do this without removing the motor/outdrive?

-To rremove the deck, how much other stuff must be removed?
How exactly do you tighten a rivet?
What are the most suspect areas for leakage?
When I do find leaks, is there anything besides coat-it or gluvit to use?
There are 2 small concavities/gouges in the hull. Do these need to be pounded from the inside or is there something I can fill from the outside with?

This is great forum. Thank you for your help.

 

[Starman8]

Re: '67 Starchief hull question

Do an initial water test flooding the bilge just high enough without affecting the engine, and color the water with green food coloring. Start with the boat level, then lower the trailer wheel jack to sink the bow tip.

I would consider an auto float bilge, secondary with an on/off switch. This model is OFF unless you turn the switch ON, and only runs when the float senses water.

Other leak areas are transom via holes drilled, rivets that attach strakes, then rivets that attach ribs. The worst leakes are at the chine line, and the easiest at the belly.

My opinion.

 

[CheapboatKev]

Re: '67 Starchief hull question

Welcome aboard!
Is this an I/O boat? Bellows can be leaking as well as any of the through hull fittings.
If it is an I/O..and the above water tests don't show you where she's leaking, run her in the water with a buddy to watch the motor with the doghouse off the motor to inspect if any water is seeping in back there. Double check exhaust manifolds, towards the rear riser and the blocking plate. My blocking plate on the back of the exhaust manifold rusted out and I was shooting water out of it. Also check all hoses to the water pump, T-stat ectera.
I would appreciate some pics of your rig as well.

See, I can ask for pics nicely...lol

 

[pxlxr]

Re: '67 Starchief hull question

It is an I/O. Have not had time for any tests yet; hopefully tomorrow....if we get more than 5 consecutive minutes without rain. Thanks for your insight, and I will post some pics ASAP. I may pull up the floor for a look-see (frightened at what I may find). Does the cabin wall need to come out for that? Also where would you guys suggest I look for a cabin door window, as it has no door now?

 

[barato2]

Re: '67 Starchief hull question

yes, my understanding is that the cabin wall needs to come out to pull the floor. for cabin window, are you looking for a porthole, an opening window, or what? Great Lakes Skipper is a big liquidator of boat parts that probably has some windows/portholes. me, unless it needed to open, i'd just make one from a piece of safety glass and cut rabbets in the trim around it so it sits flush.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: '67 Starchief hull question

There's also a ton of RV windows on ebay that might work for your cabin door.

 

[Huron Angler]

Re: '67 Starchief hull question

Welcome to the site pxlxr, this is a great place for info on tin boats.

Gluvit is best, but I've heard that coat-it is not bad either. Reubucking the rivets involves a person on the outside of the boat hitting the rivet with a hammer or small sledge, while the other person holds a heavy piece of metal against the inside of the rivet.

Looking forward to seeing the photos, I'm sure you will be able to stop the leaking with a little work.