68 55hp hydro-electric shift

frosty42

Cadet
Joined
Mar 12, 2009
Messages
8
Hi Guys,
Got this motor this year, have used it a couple of hunded miles, but kept getting water in lower unit. First replaced upper seals. bearing ok, but looked like it had been hot, order one, but still use (and impeller, just because) still water in lower unit...but no problems with shift. took to shop to get prop shaft seal done, without removing from powerhead. then went 300 miles up north, motor stuck in neutral.(shouldn't happen) luckily I have a 4.5 kicker we used for our 4 day vacation.
Removed lower unit and shift cover...found my water leak! crap gasket. anyway plunger stuck down, poped up right away, but top of solenoid and plunger corroded and slightly pitted. Cleaned it up a bit and reinstalled. Test in driveway finefor a couple of shifts, then stuckin reverse. took apart again, shift rod stuck down lightly...pops up a soon as solenoid wiggles. Also replaced bearing and upper seals again.
Cleaned it up better, can't figure how to totally remove plunger. notices shift rod was bent in a few places, straightened, reinstalled. Worked a couple of times then stuck in reverse again. water problem solved though.
Removed lower unit again and still confused as to why the solenoid plunger sticks.
Other things I have noticed is my green solenoid is the bottom one, book says it should be top, I didn't change, cant figure how to get apart. and it was working fine.
no adjusting nut on the top of solenoid plunger as book shows.
book shows common lower unit but simply notes that 68 & 69 shift rods are different, they go directly into the pump. just doesnt show a drawing of the differences, and there are some. also don't know who else has played in here in the last 40 years.
Has anyone seen this type? how do you seperate plunger and solenoid? any other ideas why it would be sticking?
I only want to reinstall 1 more time.
Thanx
 

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F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,226
Re: 68 55hp hydro-electric shift

Hi Guys,
Got this motor this year, have used it a couple of hunded miles, but kept getting water in lower unit. First replaced upper seals. bearing ok, but looked like it had been hot, order one, but still use (and impeller, just because) still water in lower unit...but no problems with shift. took to shop to get prop shaft seal done, without removing from powerhead. then went 300 miles up north, motor stuck in neutral.(shouldn't happen) luckily I have a 4.5 kicker we used for our 4 day vacation.
Removed lower unit and shift cover...found my water leak! crap gasket. anyway plunger stuck down, poped up right away, but top of solenoid and plunger corroded and slightly pitted. Cleaned it up a bit and reinstalled. Test in driveway finefor a couple of shifts, then stuckin reverse. took apart again, shift rod stuck down lightly...pops up a soon as solenoid wiggles. Also replaced bearing and upper seals again.
Cleaned it up better, can't figure how to totally remove plunger. notices shift rod was bent in a few places, straightened, reinstalled. Worked a couple of times then stuck in reverse again. water problem solved though.
Removed lower unit again and still confused as to why the solenoid plunger sticks.
Other things I have noticed is my green solenoid is the bottom one, book says it should be top, I didn't change, cant figure how to get apart. and it was working fine.
no adjusting nut on the top of solenoid plunger as book shows.
book shows common lower unit but simply notes that 68 & 69 shift rods are different, they go directly into the pump. just doesnt show a drawing of the differences, and there are some. also don't know who else has played in here in the last 40 years.
Has anyone seen this type? how do you seperate plunger and solenoid? any other ideas why it would be sticking?
I only want to reinstall 1 more time.
Thanx

What book do you have? My factory manual doesn't specify which color goes on the bottom and it has been over 30 years since I've been in one so I don't remember. BUT, if it ever was working, and works now except if it gets stuck, it is correct, so no need to change it around.

I would assume the valve spool at the lower end of the plungers rod is sticking in the oil pump. It is a very close fit in there and might have some dirt or grit in the hole. If it were not such a close fit, oil would bypass it and it wouldn't shift.

You are correct, the 1970-up has a different type of valve arrangement consisting of balls and levers. And adjustments on the solenoid rods.
 

frosty42

Cadet
Joined
Mar 12, 2009
Messages
8
Re: 68 55hp hydro-electric shift

I will check the port tonight, It does seem to bind somewhere. I see a few other questions today about the same year monster. interesting.
 
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