68 AristoCraft 8-teen off and running

greenbush future

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Re: 68 AristoCraft 8-teen off and running

Will exiting the boat in an emergency situation still work? There really isn't much "open" air room in this style boat to begin with, but moving the hardtop back will mean even less. Just another thing to consider when you have 3-4 people running along and heaven forbid you need a quick evacuation.
 

Lt. Dan

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Re: 68 AristoCraft 8-teen off and running

Pictures of course, Michoud not so much I'm afraid... If you know of Michoud you realize why.
Here is the final result, I can live with this...
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Lt. Dan

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Re: 68 AristoCraft 8-teen off and running

Will exiting the boat in an emergency situation still work? There really isn't much "open" air room in this style boat to begin with, but moving the hardtop back will mean even less. Just another thing to consider when you have 3-4 people running along and heaven forbid you need a quick evacuation.

We absolutely practice safe fun coming from serious "go fast" toys. While the unthinkable can and does happen there will always be a safety briefing prior to loading up and going, while many think this silly, I can assure my fellow boaters that in an emergency situation the individuals in my boat will a) not be consuming alcohol b) will wear flotation vests and know exactly when & where to exit the boat. With the top back there will be sufficient room to bail out if necessary from the front or back. Otherwise unless Rhonda wants to run with the A/C on, the windows will be stowed allowing egress through those portal openings. Think we will be ok, but thanks for the questions, safety considerations are always important.
 

Lt. Dan

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Re: 68 AristoCraft 8-teen off and running

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My lovely wife said I should sell this version to a Hong Kong Harbor taxi driver:facepalm:
 

Lt. Dan

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Re: 68 AristoCraft 8-teen off and running

No respect, none whatsoever
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 68 AristoCraft 8-teen off and running

It just gets funkier and funkier!!! Check your PM!!!
 

sphelps

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Re: 68 AristoCraft 8-teen off and running

I like it ! Kinda looks like the Bat Boat . All it needs is that big single fin on top ! :cool:
 

greenbush future

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Re: 68 AristoCraft 8-teen off and running

I like it ! Kinda looks like the Bat Boat . All it needs is that big single fin on top ! :cool:
That would make it a Jimmy Buffet boat IMO. Still the choices are endless, as Lt Dan has already shown. Rhonda will keep him in check, at least to some degree.
 

Lt. Dan

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Re: 68 AristoCraft 8-teen off and running

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7429/13454390814_c0daadbea2_h.jpg

Well the transom center pad is out, there was rot as seen by the stain, my apologies to those that said be certain, I should have looked further; oddly enough there was plastic filler in the mix (about as far in as a plastic tip will reach, and silicone sealant too). I have decided to remove both wing panels in the photo, they are balsa as well, dry down to about 3 inches from the bottom but I want a solid piece with the built up center pad. I holed the transom skin, a little too exuberant, and the last 4x4 square to come out, guess I will learn to repair that damage as well, should be non-visible after the new gel coat.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 68 AristoCraft 8-teen off and running

The way that transom's designed with the two individual curvatures coming together at the center pad really makes that pad VERY strong on both Axis! When you get it the pad epoxied and tabbed in, I'm betting the wings will only need strength to carry the load of the Tow Eyes and not much else. I'm starting to understand the logic of the end grain balsa construction now that I see it all torn down. I'm liking this boat more and more as I see it coming apart. Thanks for sharing the pics!!!!
 

jbcurt00

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Re: 68 AristoCraft 8-teen off and running

As WOG's signature suggests:
"Denial...Ain't just a River in Egypt!"---Mark Twain
I figure you've been much more through in the inspections then most, by a fairly large margin, esp using sonic testing. Alas, many a thread get to this point, some much further along in the project, so that the added transom work is the project's death nail.

Good that you continued to dig & found it's not as solid & rot free as expected.

Continue w the through attention & inspections and you'll get this resto-mod hotrod finished & re-launched soon enough.


 

Lt. Dan

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Re: 68 AristoCraft 8-teen off and running

Thank you gentlemen for your observations and comments. So I have a couple more questions;

1) How do I repair the skin breach I created.

2) Should the transom replacement be a single piece with a built up center pad or should this be repaired as it was originally laid up with 1/2" wings & 2"center pad?

3) Preferred material for the transom reconstruction, I reviewed Coosa, don't want to spend that much, not prepared to use composite on this project.

4) Should I make the transom replacement go all the way to the bottom hull for the stringers to be attached which will box the motor mounts, fuel cell and support the soon to be flat floor?

Hope I'm not wearing you guys out, I appreciate your knowledge & help!
WOW! What a learning experience....I like it!

Doug
 
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Woodonglass

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Re: 68 AristoCraft 8-teen off and running

Marine Grade Plywood is the best but not needed. For this build I'd recommend you look into MDO plywood. Using epoxy to laminate it together would make the center piece a tank!!! I'd make a 3 piece just like the factory cuz as I stated the design is such that the center section IS the Transom. If you don't use MDO, then Arauco Ext. Grade plywood, if you can find it is some really good, almost void free plywood. I would take it all the way down and attach the stringer/motor mounts to it.
 

greenbush future

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Re: 68 AristoCraft 8-teen off and running

Thank you gentlemen for your observations and comments. So I have a couple more questions;

1) How do I repair the skin breach I created. Standard stuff and most boat restores have a accident or two, rapair it as you would any glass repair.

2) Should the transom replacement be a single piece with a built up center pad or should this be repaired as it was originally laid up with 1/2" wings & 2"center pad? With the increase in power, your guess is as good as ours, time for some engineering thoughts, that V-8 will be a different bird with much much more tourque.

3) Preferred material for the transom reconstruction, I reviewed Coosa, don't want to spend that much, not prepared to use composite on this project. Be prepared to spend quite a bit to make this new style work and remain safe. You're in uncharted waters so to speak.

4) Should I make the transom replacement go all the way to the bottom hull for the stringers to be attached which will box the motor mounts, fuel cell and support the soon to be flat floor?
I would be tying it all together, I would be double careful with all the extra weight, power, and new profile of the top. How much does the top weigh? I have a feeling the boat will be stern heavy with the changes you are making. These boats are heavy to begin with right?

Hope I'm not wearing you guys out, I appreciate your knowledge & help!
WOW! What a learning experience....I like it!

Heck no, it's fun to watch the idea come to life, but it's your boat, we just get to ask questions and give opinions. Opinions are like butt's, everyone has one!



Doug
Have fun Lt. Dan
 

Lt. Dan

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Re: 68 AristoCraft 8-teen off and running

Remaining concerned about the weight and the new waterline too, I re-visited the weights of the components coming out (1335) and those going back in (555 engine & Bravo 1 only @ this point). That is a 700 lb. favorable difference in weight after the removal of the "Iron Duke" & MC-1, battery and steel fuel tank allowing good leeway in new component installation. Of course the new transom & stringer/engine box will use some difference but I don't know how much yet. After speaking with a few friends, the last component location to be decided will be the fuel cells & the battery (2) so that fine tuning c/g can be effected. Not sure what the stringers will add since I'm not sure what material to use for them and the engine box. After speaking with "Wood" the transom will be replaced as the factory built it although not with balsa but MDO, he explained 2 procedures for filling the deck void properly after relocation of the windshield rearward which will add more to the front than came out.
I am in a discussion with another boating buddy about installing rear motor mounts to remove any undue stress from the transom as a mating point, I'm told Mercruiser has a provision for this with certain inboard bell housings like on ski boats. If useable, the rear mounts will be modified to use Mercedes fluid filled engine mounts like the front set up basically negating the increased torque stress on the transom; I believe the motor mount box can be made sufficiently strong to preclude any twisting problems while still be light weight in particular with 4 motor mounts securing the engine instead of the usual 2 + the transom.
Anyway it's certainly a work in progress, I ordered a LS1 plastic motor with heads from a racecar company since the location of the stringers and motor mount fabrication are IMO the key to success and strength. Because these mock motors are threaded for a all components used on a motor the exhaust manifolds will be next to measure needed clearance for the 1 piece engine hatch.
I decided to complete all fiberglass work and modifications before I begin the ugly job of paint preparation. I also decided to use several different products (heat & sound deadening coatings) inside the hull when all wood work is complete prior to painting the interior. Duhe said building a rotisserie is not a problem, we have one for cars that can be modified, we can weld it up in a day to rotate the hull upside down where I have noticed what appear to be the beginning of blisters or the failure of the original 40 yr. old gel-coat.
So I have a 3 month gig in Oklahoma to get to so work has basically stopped for now. I will still be educating myself on the upcoming work and I'll be on the website as I think of solutions to potential problems.

Regards,

Doug
 

jbcurt00

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Re: 68 AristoCraft 8-teen off and running

You may need an outdrive compatible engine to mock up the motor mounts & etc.

I haven't run an I/O, but judging from the work being done w/ motor swaps @iboats, I think you need to be able to mock the whole driveline up & attached thru the transom to get the I/O alignment really close to being 100% aligned before you finalize the motor mount stringer heights so you fall w/in the actual mount's height adjustments. I don't know much about the mounts you plan to use, but they aren't ferro-fluid filled mounts that can be electronically energized to dampen vibration? It's early, so I might be thinking of ferro fluid shocks/struts, not motor mounts....

Plus ensure that the inner & outer transom layers are parallel & flat AND perpendicular to the centerline of the boat.

I suspect much of that ^^^ you may already know, but better to have & not need rather then need & not have.

'See' you in 3 months.
 

Lt. Dan

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Re: 68 AristoCraft 8-teen off and running

These "mock up motors" were derived for fitting the LS series motors into all manor of concoctions', they have the capability to mount any and all transmissions, accessories & mounts which could be used to fit it into a project properly & certify component clearance issues. I have seen them used on experimental aircraft builds, hotrod builds and boat builds. My primary purpose in acquiring one was to accurately measure stringer distance, motor mount placement, spacing for the outdrive bell housing, trim pump, drive belt setup and positioning of the closed coolant system components. The fact that with the cylinder heads attached it weighs 60 lbs. certainly helps in the one man movement department too.

The motor mounts I am using are stock Mercedes V8, fluid filled type generally good for vibration free performance for years. They are very effective in controlling vibration & when worn out the leakage of the fluid is easily visible.

I have read that the alignment issues of many of these components is critical as you have stated and believe me I wish to do this only one time per boat, so I'll be cautious ask many questions, proceed with many photos and questions as they arrive; Thanks again for the involvement in this project, your inputs create thought and guidance for me & that alone helps to solve problems resulting from my inexperience in boat modification.
 
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Lt. Dan

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Re: 68 AristoCraft 8-teen off and running

Since I don't have to be in Tulsa until Monday, I stayed home an fiddled with the boat finding a few rookie mistakes that will require attention; good thing fiberglass is your friend in repairing things that are fiberglass. I cut the hatch opening angles backwards, meaning the deck would open forward before the hatch ever opened rearwards. While looking at the cuts I made, had I gone in an additional 3" from the deck towards the center of the boat, it would have avoided 4 other cuts I made to get it out. Then while measuring the upper deck to shorten the length running aft to accommodate the rearward movement of the windshield 4' the assembly shifted starboard
3" pulling the port cut 3"off , I did not catch it before I made the cut, when I cut the starboard side by measuring the port side I could not square the two sides to the hatch and keep the windshield centered. When I slid both sides to the engine hatch, got out to look at the job the windshield was 3 " to starboard not centered. :smash:

Live and learn, I do believe that by the time I am finished with this project, I will be an expert fiberglass repair guy looks like I'm going to get lots of practice.

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sphelps

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Re: 68 AristoCraft 8-teen off and running

Don't sweat it .. Those things happen sometimes . Can you glass it back together and re-cut it ?
 
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