'69 55hp Rude carb rebuild question

[kauboy]

Well guys, I made a booboo.
I was rebuilding my carbs. I had never done it but the manual was very descriptive, so I gave it a shot.
My problem now is, after I removed the low-speed needle and retainer, I didn't realize that it was good practice to remove the bearing way down in the hole. Well, I dropped the first carb into the cleaner with the bearing still in it. I then started on the second one and thats when I decided to take out the bearing. It was a pain, but by using the paper clip method, I was able to do it.
So I decided to pull the other one out of the cleaner and remove the bearing. For whatever reason, that stupid thing just wouldn't come out. So, I left it in and redunked it while I took the third one apart.

So, I get home an hour later and decide to put the first one back together and drop the second one into the cleaner.
I start the reassembly and completely forgot that I didn't remove the bearing, and I ended up shoving the new one all the way down into the hole before I remembered it.
STUPID, I KNOW!!!

So here I am, a broken man, asking for help.
Is it possible to get this thing out with a more productive method?
Is it even possible to run the engine with two bearings in one carb?
I know that sounds dumb, but I don't know what to do.
Thanks for any help guys. Its always greatly appreciated.

Oh yeah, and why do I have so many other parts in the carb kit than the manual talks about???

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: '69 55hp Rude carb rebuild question

I use a small tap (Tap & Die Set), one just big enough to grab that small nylon bearing to pull it out, BUT not big enough to grab anything else. Works for me.

 

[kauboy]

Re: '69 55hp Rude carb rebuild question

Well, I kinda took your advice.
I wasn't able to get the tap to grip it enough to pull it out. Best I can figure, the extraction is only possible when the bearing has been worn down from usage.
So I used a slightly bigger tap and was able to completely groove the bearing out. Then I flushed it clean and blew the whole mess out. I inserted a new one, and reinstalled the needle valve.
I think that will do it.
Thanks for the idea. I hadn't even thought about using a tap.


Does anyone recommend changing the little silver discs that came with the kit?
and what does the gasket in the middle go on:

 

[kauboy]

Re: '69 55hp Rude carb rebuild question

Does anybody know???

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: '69 55hp Rude carb rebuild question

The kit contains various items which will fit other carbutretors. That middle gasket is one of them. The exact carburetor/horsepower however excapes me.

 

[samo_ott]

Re: '69 55hp Rude carb rebuild question

If the little silver discs are the same as my smaller engines, they need to be removed, then the lil holes behind them cleaned with carb cleaner and then replaced and sealed up if need be. To remove, punch a tiny hole in the disc and the put a screw or something in it to remove. Dont drop any debris in the hole. And tap the top of the new ones to flatten them out and tighten em up in the hole.

 

[kauboy]

Re: '69 55hp Rude carb rebuild question

How essential is it to remove the discs and clean behind them?
Should it be done everytime?
My carbs weren't varnished at all due to a rebuild about a year ago, but a gasket was broken around the valve in the middle of the float bowl.
So should I worry about the discs?

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: '69 55hp Rude carb rebuild question

I remove the core plugs only if it obvious that something is jammed in there OR if air won't flow thru that passageway properly.

 

[kauboy]

Re: '69 55hp Rude carb rebuild question

Thanks Joe. The blown air was going through the passages just fine, so I won't worry about it.

I love this site. So informative and so quick.