'69 Evinrude 55HP w/ Selectric switch will not reverse

[F_R]

Re: '69 Evinrude 55HP w/ Selectric switch will not reverse

Can't get this off my mind. You DO know that the voltage tests I am speaking of are done with the voltmeter's + lead to the wire terminal and the - lead to ground.....don't you?

 

[kauboy]

Re: '69 Evinrude 55HP w/ Selectric switch will not reverse

Yes, I do. Per the instructions in my manual, I disconnected the green and blue wires at the powerhead where they go down into the lower end. I tested both ends of the wire. To clarify, with the switch in the forward position, I tested the disconnected wire back at the power head and grounded off the other lead. I got no voltage(good) and tested the blue with the same results. I then switched the box to Neutral and tested again. Green showed 12 and blue showed 0. So, finally I switched to Reverse and tested both wires. Both had 12V. So, according to the manual, that eliminates the switch and all wiring leading to it as being the problem. I then turned my attention to the continuation of those wires that lead to the solenoids. I tested the OHMs of the blue wire/blue solenoid and grounded the other lead and got 5.8OHMs. That is within the 5-7 range that the manual specifies. I then tested the green one and grounded the other lead. And guess what? No reading could be displayed. I tested multiple times and confirmed a good ground, and still got nothing from the lower end green wire.

The reason my initial test was flawed was because the green wire's circuit was interupted (cuz the solenoid/wires leading to it was bad) and no current could be pulled through the switch. So no reading would show on the green spade connector in the switch. As you know, unless a circuit is grounded or complete, electricity will not pass through it. So that was my problem here. The switch is fine, the solenoid, or wire leading to it, is bad.

Next question. Were is the solenoid grounded out at? Is it simply touching the metal inside the lower end, or is there a wire coming from it? Obviously checking the wiring first is the best option instead of replacing the solenoid.
Could this still be caused by bad oil? Since water could cause a short, could I still be looking at a problem other than the solenoid itself? I will be draining and changing the oil tonight to check for water(which I understand will show up white).

 

[F_R]

Re: '69 Evinrude 55HP w/ Selectric switch will not reverse

The solenoids are grounded by virtue of sitting in the gearcase cavity. No separate ground wire. No ohms certainly means either a broken wire or open solenoid winding. Obvioulsy it can't work if if either is the case. And obviously, even with good clean oil it still won't work if the solenoid doesn't actuate to close the valve in the oil pump.

 

[kauboy]

Re: '69 Evinrude 55HP w/ Selectric switch will not reverse

Ok, if I don't ever have to go backwards, is it okay to run the unit? I definately don't want to risk damaging anything else, but if the lower end removal is not for amatuers or those with little time, then I may not want try it before this weekend. I have a friend who is a certified mechanic that said he would be happy to help me, but admits he knows very little about outboards. He knows the basics of the motor, gears, and driveshafts, so his knowledge is helpful. How much work actually has to be done to reach the solenoids? can I just drain the unit and drop it, or do I have to move things to get to them? If I remember correctly, the water pump is sitting above them and may have to be removed first. Is that right?

BTW, I really appreciate this help. It's giving me more confidence in the understanding of how it all works. Thank you very much. I realize that you probably have much better things to do than waste your time helping an ignorant stranger, but I greatly appreciate the effort.

 

[F_R]

Re: '69 Evinrude 55HP w/ Selectric switch will not reverse

The comment about not for amatuers was meant to apply to gearcase overhaul where the whole thing has to come apart. You can replace solenoids without a special degree in brain surgery. They are under the cover just forward of the water pump, the WP does not have to come apart, but while you are right there it would make sense to slap in a new impeller. Your manual should explain how to get the lower unit off and back on. Don't miss the plastic water tube guides which will most likely have worked their way up the tubes. They are used to facilitate hitting the holes when reassembling the gearcase to the upper housing.

Running it with a bad solenoid won't hurt anything other than no-shift as long as you don't run over somebody or the pier. But make sure that oil is OK.

 

[kauboy]

Re: '69 Evinrude 55HP w/ Selectric switch will not reverse

Oh, I understand. When reading through the manual, I was getting a weak feeling when it started going into removal of the gears and all, so I knew I would want to avoid that at all costs. The gentelman I bought the boat from told me that the impeller had just been replaced in the past two years. How long do they last? It should still be in proper working order, right?

Anyways, plan of action now is to change the oil and run without the solenoid. After this weekend, I may drop the unit and test the wires and solenoid directly to confirm the exact location of the problem.

 

[F_R]

Re: '69 Evinrude 55HP w/ Selectric switch will not reverse

I can tell you from experience that we had a lot of trouble with impellers shearing loose from their center hub and causing cooked engines in those days. And OMC did not have a good explanation why it was happening. It does appear that we had a lot more trouble in our salt water area than around the rest of the country. Hopefully the problem has been cured by now, but I got out of the business in 1978 so am not up on it. It did seem to get better when they changed the pump housing to plastic with stainless liners. That would hold with one OMC theory that it might be an electrolysis problem (which raised a lot of eyebrows). Anyway, If it were mine it would be due for a new one. And also, if it were mine it would get a whole new pump kit which includes the better plastic/stainless housing....if it hasn't already been updated. If it has been updated to the plastic housing, you only need change the impeller. You can't tell if it has the plastic one without actually looking.

Is it OK for this weekend??? How the heck would I know? It's still cloudy here from the storm and I can't see the stars and the light is out on my crystal ball. Yuk Yuk.

 

[kauboy]

Re: '69 Evinrude 55HP w/ Selectric switch will not reverse

Sorry to hear that. Its a nice sunny 94 degrees here and is supposed to cool down a little by the weekend. Excellent boating weather I think.8)

 

[kauboy]

Re: '69 Evinrude 55HP w/ Selectric switch will not reverse

VERY BAD NEWS!!!

I drained the oil and it came out a milky cream color. :% Dun dun duh......

So, I know that this presents a very bad situation and could be the cause for my solenoid or wiring to go out. I refilled the gearcase with the correct oil and will be dropping the lower end out to investigate it next week. I really don't know what I'm looking for though. Where are the most important spots to check? Where is the water most likely coming in from?

 

[F_R]

Re: '69 Evinrude 55HP w/ Selectric switch will not reverse

So how long has it been since you changed it? Don't panic. A little bit over a very long time is not cause for alarm, but a sign you need to do more maint. That's one reason why they specify regular oil changes. I'm no better than you....Mine is overdue too.

Most likely leak cause is fish line around propeller shaft. If it gets wound into the seal figure on a leak.

The drive shaft seals are pretty easy to change once you get the water pump off.

 

[kauboy]

Re: '69 Evinrude 55HP w/ Selectric switch will not reverse

Yeah its kinda my fault for not checking it when I bought the boat. I have only had it for 3-4 months and the seller said he had changed it. But of course he was selling it, and probably wanted the picture to be painted as pretty as possible.

Do I get some kind of a kit when removing the lower end that will have all the necessary seals? And what would you recommend in terms of gasket compound. I am in unfamiliar territory when it comes to this stuff.