If it is any consolation, I have seen worst...much worst.
Before you get too involved, you seriously need to take a lot of measurements NOW! I used a graph paper system for that. Measure across the hull (beam if you will) from the very back (transom) and measure at some intervals all the way to the front (bow) and layout those measurements on some sketched diagram of your boat. I measured about every foot to capture the arch of the sides. Because it would be really sad (and you wouldn't be the first) to find out after all the work, that your cap won't fit back in place anymore.
Any side splaying out will stop the cap from fitting back in place. So your cradle really needs to keep the sides in check for that reason.
As you start grinding the old fiberglass out in prep for new transom and stringers, you will start to see how flimsy the sides actually are. That is why you build the cradle to hold them in their original place as you rebuild the internals.
As to your question about how to do the rebuild of the structure, I personally would gut the entire hull including the transom and stringers first. Then grind the hull in prep to replace them. I put the new transom back and then the stringers. And depending how your boat was made, the stringer probably tie into the transom. So a new transom will make the stringer replacement solid as a rock.
Keep up the great work and questions. And make sure you post updated picture for us to see and offer ideas and help. :thumb:
Allright GM, thanks for the tips, I went ahead and made a quick sketch with measurements at least for the cross dimensions at each 1 ft. I have the cap sitting right behind the boat and will double check the measurements to the inside of the cap lip. I added some side bracing to the trailer at least for the back half where the boat flattens out to prevent side splay before i removed the cap. the plan at this point is to lower the trailer as much as possible and level the boat on the trailer according to the current stringers or really the theoretical deck. Im hoping that the upper lip of the hull where it meets the cap will also be level between port and starboard at each ft increment. that will give me two points of measurement to keep straight when i start putting junk back in.
I debated the cradle idea, but honestly i dont have space for a trailer, cap, and hull/cradle. I opted for a half-a** trailer-cradle, partly to save space, partly to keep it mobile, and partly because i had the material on hand to weld up the side supports.
I have no intention of making this a high end, high quality, craftsmanship exhibition like most of you fine fellows have done. I'm shooting for a strong, safe fishing boat, with a new coat of paint. Should I manage to complete this project, ill have the experience to take on a better boat, maybe and I/O or nice fish n ski.
I did manage to remove the remaining deck wood from under the bow section, it came out complete enough to use as a template assuming i don't warp the dog snot out the thing during decon/recon. i also peeled off the inner skin of the transom. The inner section of the wood seemed fairly complete albeit very dark with mold and water was soon oozing out. the outer half of the transom is nearly completely decomposed.
Does anyone know if there is a correlation between transom thickness and size of outboard you can hang off the boat. My transom is 1.5" thick inner glass to outer gel coat. I think the sticker says its rated for 60 hp and 900lbs. Im just wondering if i make the transom thicker and modify the splash well if i could put on a bigger motor say an 80-90hp. Ill get to looking for that later, i was just hoping someone would know off hand.
