6hp Chrysler Model 64HD

[oldboat1]

Re: 6hp Chrysler Model 64HD

To adjust, loosen the follower arm and place the roller on the mark or juuuust slightly to the right of the mark, then tighten it down. I'm thinking your idle speed screw is going to have to be reset too. How about the points? Set at .020? Tuned properly, the motor will idle smoothly (low idle) before the throttle is advanced to the point where the carb plate starts to open (i.e., where the roller touches the carb plate mark, and the motor starts to throttle up).

 

[MickLovin]

Re: 6hp Chrysler Model 64HD

I'll try your advice anbd go back to .030 now I have it running and probably retune as it is easier to run now. The only thing with this motor is the old throttle pull type which if I put in too much it takes it back too far and stalls, I suppose least I don't have to choke it to stop, is this right oldboat1?

 

[oldboat1]

Re: 6hp Chrysler Model 64HD

Running again then – that’s good. I haven’t worked on that 6 Special that you have (has the throttle lever rather than the twist grip throttle, right – also a magneto ignition rather than CDI on the regular 6.?) Anyway, points should be set at .020 and plugs at .030, and you should find a throttle stop screw or something similar for that throttle lever. As long as it doesn’t vibrate down to the point where she stalls, though, you should be fine. As part of the carb setting process, you normally set the throttle stop along with adjusting the low speed carb needle -- object is to get the motor to idle as low as possible, and the throttle stop would be set at that point. The usual process is to lean out the carb screw (increases rpms) then throttle down – repeat process until it runs at a low idle without stalling, and set throttle stop so it doesn’t go lower than that (and stall, like you are seeing). But like you suggest, you can shut it down with the throttle lever (current setting) or choking. Your choice.

 

[MickLovin]

Re: 6hp Chrysler Model 64HD

Just bringing this old chestnut up for one more question, my 6hp outboard has the old lever system for the throttle, I set it's idle at a mark under the flywheel, it is running fine and seems to go full throttle in my large esky. But it has a second larger mark and away from where it is getting to, is the second mark where it should be obtaining, the carbie is fully opened the way it is now?
Also oldboat i was reading your post, and my engine doesn't seem to have a throttle stop screw?

 

[MickLovin]

Re: 6hp Chrysler Model 64HD

I took some pictures of the marks I mentioned, also I can't seem to see a stop screw on my motor nor the parts listing.
The first picture is where i set idle at the first mark, the second picture is of the second mark which I am not getting to, the third pic is the throttle full out with the carbie fully open but not reaching the big mark under the flywheel.

 

[MickLovin]

Re: 6hp Chrysler Model 64HD

OK since last post I did some looking at why it wasn't reaching the second mark and going back way too far on the first causing it to stall.
I was able to put the rod link in the third picture above to a hole back from the original hole it was in under the flywheel next to the spark plug cable exit, this now allows it to go to the second mark and not let it go as far past the first mark to let it stall, it now also lines up with 2 dots that are on the throttle lever. I will test run it tomorrow and let you know how it goes, even though it may have ran alright before, I have a feeling it will run even better now as it will have more advance than it did before. I also adjusted the points to .020 as advised by oldboat1. Just waiting on my pull start cog, fuel pump and fuel pump gaskets/diaphragm and this baby is ready to go I hope. :faint2:

 

[oldboat1]

Re: 6hp Chrysler Model 64HD

well, not quite following your description of adjustments, but agree there does not seem to be an idle stop screw on that model -- don't see one in the service manual supplement that addresses the 6 Special, either. The regular 6s with the twist grip throttle (some, anyway) had an idle stop screw on the handle. (I may have incorrectly described that as a throttle stop screw.)

You should be able to adjust for friction by tightening or loosening the pivot bolt holding the throttle lever to the exhaust cover (shared bolt, apparently). That would at least help prevent throttle movement from vibration -- no reference to that in the manual, so just guessing. In that push-pull throttle system, fully pulled out is apparently open throttle, and pushed in is closed throttle. Chances are, fully pushing it in will kill the motor.** Otherwise, there is the choke.

btw, I don't see an expansion plug on the top of the carb above the adjustment needle -- may just be the lighting. Don't think the motor would run without a plug in place, but maybe -- never tried it.

**(Maybe that adj. you describe to keep it from stalling when throttled down functions the same as an idle stop screw. Not sure.)

 

[MickLovin]

Re: 6hp Chrysler Model 64HD

Hey thanks again young fella, I now have it set to the two marks, I did adjust the nut you were talking about for the extra friction and it now stays where it is unless I move it. I haven't test run it yet as it is only 5 in the morning here, but as soon as it is about 9 I will run it and let you know how it went. I now have the pull start ready just waiting on the new cog which broke in half. Also I have a pump and gasket kit coming. It ran fine with the old pump, but I snapped one of the barbs off when try to pull a stiff fuel line off.

The link I am talking about, which I moved to a different hole part no 34 (Link, throttle cam)in diagram if you can see it
which attaches to part no 10 ( throttle cam plate. of the below diagram

 

[oldboat1]

Re: 6hp Chrysler Model 64HD

OK, as I understand -- you put the throttle cam link back where it was in the first place (unclear what happened there -- you moved it earlier? may have missed that.) Anyway, I think you are saying the marks line up and it appears the linkage is correct. I assume the throttle cam/mag plate rotates freely both clockwise and counterclockwise, and that the cam and plate are in the WOT position when the throttle lever and throttle rod are at WOT. Like Pikefisherman's motor, the beginning point for linkage adjustments has to be the postion of the mag plate (stator, I guess, in his case) and attached throttle cam. If the mag plate is rotated fully counterclockwise to set the engine at WOT, it sounds like you have worked backwards to properly set the linkage. I guess the ringer would be if the throttle cam in the wrong position on the mag plate, but I don't think it can bolt up wrong. In the same sense, I don't THINK the mag plate can be put on in the wrong position -- but not sure of that.

 

[oldboat1]

Re: 6hp Chrysler Model 64HD

and when done fixing the rest of the stuff you busted, you can see if it actually runs!!

(btw, don't forget to put the motor in gear if setting the throttle wide open. Shift lever working OK? -- looks like a simplification over other models. I don't get why Chrysler did that push-pull thing on the throttle, rather than adapting similar linkage used with the twist grip for operation of a lever.)

 

[MickLovin]

Re: 6hp Chrysler Model 64HD

BTW it wasn't me who changed the throttle cam link MR! LOL I have only had this little baby for 3 months, and when I got it, it didn't even have a fuel pump . Haven't broken anything yet either (not yet )Actaully thats not quite true my cable on the spark plug has a cut in it now and I am sure it is shorting. I will change it out for one off my 12.9hp.
The throttle cam link I changed, only has two places it can go on the cam, as there is only 2 holes in the cam. It was obvious to me it wasn't making the last amrk which I half knew, was WOT and as I said earlier I could push past the first mark to make it stall.
Now I have set the throttle cam link, it sits just before the first mark and makes it to the second mark (but can go past the 2nd mark?)

 

[oldboat1]

Re: 6hp Chrysler Model 64HD

sure. blame the other guy. The wire should be the 7mm solid core variety that might be available to you at an auto store. I'm familiar with a single mark on a cam for sync. (evinrude, although mess with Chryslers too). The service manual I have shows only the single mark, so not sure what you are dealing with. Got a manual showing a cam with the two marks? What you've done sounds right to me -- motor doesn't sound like it had the best care (PO), and that makes it tough -- don't know what was jiggered before. Only hope is to try and set it all back to specs and start from there. It was running for you though -- can't be too bad.

 

[MickLovin]

Re: 6hp Chrysler Model 64HD

sure. blame the other guy. The wire should be the 7mm solid core variety that might be available to you at an auto store. I'm familiar with a single mark on a cam for sync. (evinrude, although mess with Chryslers too). The service manual I have shows only the single mark, so not sure what you are dealing with. Got a manual showing a cam with the two marks? What you've done sounds right to me -- motor doesn't sound like it had the best care (PO), and that makes it tough -- don't know what was jiggered before. Only hope is to try and set it all back to specs and start from there. It was running for you though -- can't be too bad.

It wasn't me . Haven't said that, I don't think I can change wires Oldy as it is straight out of the coil sealed. As for the two marks, one is a tiny one which is the first as there is not much cam plate there and the other is a longer mark near the end of travel, which would be the WOT mark.

 

[oldboat1]

Re: 6hp Chrysler Model 64HD

ah. thought the little special 6 had the coils under the flywheel -- so switching out coil assemblies with the 12.9, then. sounds like a good move. and syncing the WOT mark beginning with the cam plate/throttle cam in the appropriate WOT position. sounds right.