7.5 hp merc leakin lower unit oil.

gty2k2000

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Mar 13, 2005
Messages
32
i have a 1974 merc 7.5 hp i just had it serviced and was running great then i took it out brought it back and it started leaking a yellowish oil im pretty sure it might be lower unit oil. what is happening to my baby someone please help me
 

pz742q

Cadet
Joined
Mar 20, 2005
Messages
8
Re: 7.5 hp merc leakin lower unit oil.

Pull the lower unit drain plug without removing the upper vent plug. If the lower unit oil comes out yellow or cream colored your seals are gone or your housing is cracked. Ouch!
 

gty2k2000

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Mar 13, 2005
Messages
32
Re: 7.5 hp merc leakin lower unit oil.

housing what do you meen the housing<br />it makes a squeling skreaching noise when it idels.<br /><br />also there are some cracks in the metting point between midsection and the lower unit. when it idles bubble come out of them
 

pz742q

Cadet
Joined
Mar 20, 2005
Messages
8
Re: 7.5 hp merc leakin lower unit oil.

I would not use this motor until you check the lower unit oil. If it is milky or cream colored I would suggest having it serviced.
 

funnyboy

Cadet
Joined
Mar 25, 2005
Messages
14
Re: 7.5 hp merc leakin lower unit oil.

I have several of these old Mercs so I have come across this problem before. Mercury used steel driveshafts in their outboards until the late 1970's when they changed to a stainless steel shaft. What happens is the the driveshaft becomes pitted from corrosion around the lower unit driveshaft seals. Your 7.5 uses the water pump base to seal around the driveshaft and an o-ring to seal around the pump base-to-housing. Water is probably seeping into your lower gear housing around the driveshaft seal due to the pitting in the shaft. The fix is relatively inexpensive (if you DIY) but requires disassembling of the gear housing to remove the driveshaft. I've taken my driveshaft to a shop that can do welding and machining. The shop uses a lathe to turn down the area that is pitted and then they "spray weld" the area. This is powdery substance heated so that it adheres to the driveshaft to make a permanent repair. They the use a lathe again to turn the repaired area down to the proper factory thickness (in you case prbably 1/2"). I've had a few motors done this way and it costs about $45 (I removed/replaced the shaft myself). You will more then likely need to replace the cover nut that hold the bearing carrier in place ($17), pump base (about $40 or so) and 0-rings ($1-2). The cover nut will need to be drilled/broken in order to remove it. Just be careful you don't drill into the bearing carrier like I did the first time I did this job. Get a Merc shop manual to assist you. Disassembly/reassembly time shouldn't take more than an hour and a half for an experienced tech. But before you do any of this take the lower unit to your shop so they can pressure test the leak to pinpoint its location...just to be sure.
 
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