70’s Mercury 850 Thunderbolt - Distributor Wires

[BB63QM]

I have an 850…works fine (although the rpm’s are a bit high), but I am concerned about the 3 wires from the distributor to the Switch Box Assembly. The wires are worn at the point where they enter the Distributor Body. I soldered one that was sheared off flush and supported others to prevent them from being pulled, but it seems to be a failure waiting to happen.

After the wires enter the Distributor Body, they disappear under what appears to be black wax or plastic.

Question: is the black stuff meltable, such that the wires could be accessed and spliced, then the black stuff put back? The alternative is to either wait, or buy a $650 part (neither of these give me a warm fuzzy), so I’m all ears.

As always…thanks

 

[1960 Starflite]

There was a post several years ago about exactly the same problem. He carefully ground out the filler material (Dremel maybe) down to contacts and was able to solder new wires on . I don't remember what he used as a replacement filler.
Mercurys of that era had terrible insulation on wiring, better check

 

[1960 Starflite]

Post in thread '74 mercury 850' https://forums.iboats.com/threads/74-mercury-850.761292/post-5807290

 

[BB63QM]

Thank you for the answer.
Follow-up: I spare motor that I steal parts from now and again. I was thinking to pull the distributor out of the spare, since its wires loom to be in good shape and the wires on my motor are patched together (on wire is sheared off flush to the housing, so I have a Brad-nail imbedded the wire that pokes into the wire stop that is sheared of. It works but slips out every once in a while when I stick my fat hands to adjust carbs (or more often to pickup drops nuts).
1. Can I test the spare distributor to find out if it works before stripping it out?
2. Am I better off waiting for the installed one to die rather than tempting fate with a swap?
3. How hard a job am I looking at if I swap. I saw a video on disassembly and reassembly, but there it was with a brand new ($650) distributor, bearings etc.
4. Use existing parts or replace bearings and plates while it’s out? (Want to do right, but every added step is a variable to chase of something isn’t right later…as too often is the case)

 

[BB63QM]

Maybe dumb add: Is it possible to just drop the trigger (since that’s all I really need) and replace it without disturbing the distributor main body (other than removing the cap and rotor)?

 

[Nordin]

Check out youtube and search Mercson.
He has alot of videos about Mercury 4 and 6 cyl.
There are some how to check the 4-inline and 6-inline switchboxes and distributors (battery system not the ADI).
You can power the switchbox and connect the distributor to see if they works.

 

[racerone]

Rotor may be part of the shaft , and it does not come off.

 

[1960 Starflite]

Rotor IS PART OF THE SHAFT. Do not attempt to remove it. Bearings are replaceable in that distributor. I may have the numbers if needed.
CDI may have a test procedure