71 and 72 - 18hp Evinrude Prop and other things...

[samo_ott]

Re: 71 and 72 - 18hp Evinrude Prop and other things...

No idea what the green thing is and no idea what the black thing is. Those engines are too darn new to me. And I don't see anything the solenoid is wired too other than the neutral safety switch behind the shift lever which only allows the solenoid to be energized in neutral.

 

[cprince]

Re: 71 and 72 - 18hp Evinrude Prop and other things...

Thanks samo! I would imagine that the neutral safety needs to be hooked up to something else to work!

@ 6hpboat - I have been looking at my two motors... and the more I look at them the more I think that the parts motor *looks* like it is in better condition. Not certain what I need to do to establish what motor to get going. I think that I am leaning towards the parts motor.

Any one suggest what to look for on the parts motor that would potentially exclude it?

Thanks!

PS
I erroneously said that the parts motor was also @120psi... I never tested it!!!! The recoil is not on it to turn it over! OOpps!

Craig

 

[samo_ott]

Re: 71 and 72 - 18hp Evinrude Prop and other things...

I'd swap the recoil over and test the compression on the other engine. That will be a good starting point. Check to see if one has new coils although they are swappable. As is pretty much everything. That's why compression is the most impt.

 

[Chinewalker]

Re: 71 and 72 - 18hp Evinrude Prop and other things...

One thing I would NOT do is run the motor with that brass prop. As nice as they look all shined up, they put a lot of strain on the gears and shift dog. More mass to get moving when you shift, etc. I would get an aluminum prop for it and save the brass one as a get-me-home.

The high performance Michigan props of the day had the prefix AJ (for AquaJet) in the number. They were generally 2-blades...

- Scott

 

[F_R]

Re: 71 and 72 - 18hp Evinrude Prop and other things...

OK, a few comments:

1. Judging by the wear on the brass prop, the guy probably was running it a lot in shallow water and destroying aluminum props as fast as he could replace them. So, he put on a brass one for durability. Just my best guess, mind you. Agreed, they are hard on clutch dogs if you don't shift correctly. "Correctly" is at slowest possible idle speed and "snap" it into gear with a fast decisive movement. That goes for aluminum props too.

2. The green thing is a cam that operates the black "stopper" lever. All together it is a recoil starter lockout that prevents you from pulling the rope if the throttle control is set too high. It was not found on older motors.

3. One of the small terminals on the solenoid is wired to the safety switch. The safety switch completes the circuit to ground when the interlock bar pushes the little switch button in. The purpose is to prevent you from starting it in gear.

 

[cprince]

Re: 71 and 72 - 18hp Evinrude Prop and other things...

Here is the bill and list of parts and the part numbers. This is for any one who wants to take this same project on in the future. It should give them a good idea about how much it will cost and save them hunting down part numbers. Keep in mind that I purchased these from a Canadian on line parts source and the $ is in Canadian $. One Canadian $ is currently worth 0.987557 U.S. dollars.

All part are manufactured by Sierra.

[FONT=&quot]SKU:[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Product[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Quantity[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]Price[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]Ext. Price[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]18-7222[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Carburetor Kit[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]1[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]$20.25[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]$20.25[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]18-5002[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Tune Up Kit[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]1[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]$21.29[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]$21.29[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]18-3377[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Water Pump Kit[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]1[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]$23.06[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]$23.06[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]18-2684[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Lower Unit Seal Kit[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]1[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]$18.05[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]$18.05[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]18-5181[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Ignition Coil[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]2[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]$22.38[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]$44.76[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]18-7823[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Fuel Pump Kit[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]1[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]$11.24[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]$11.24[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]Order Notes:[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]None[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]SubTotal:[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]$138.65[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]Shipping:[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]We use Purolator, Canada Post, UPS or DHL Depending on your Location[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]$16.95[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]Tax:[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]$7.77[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]Total:[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]$163.37[/FONT]​

----------------------------------

I don't know what policy there may or may not be on this board posting competitors prices... but I just wont mention who the retailer is... if any one wants to know they just have to PM me.

I also bought:" [FONT=&quot]EVINRUDE 1971 18 HP FASTWIN SERVICE MANUAL OMC [/FONT]" from eBay. $20.00 CAN shipping included.

Craig

 

[cprince]

Re: 71 and 72 - 18hp Evinrude Prop and other things...

I forgot that I also bought a 1 gallon (4litres) of carb cleaner to soak the carb when the time comes... that cost a whole lot more than I expected... But I admit I did not shop around much. I went to Princess Auto (Like Harbor Freight in The U.S.) and they did not have any, the next auto parts store did.

$47.18 total with tax.

OUCH!

Craig

 

[samo_ott]

Re: 71 and 72 - 18hp Evinrude Prop and other things...

$20 for an OMC service manual for the 18hp is a great price.

 

[cprince]

Re: 71 and 72 - 18hp Evinrude Prop and other things...

LOL! I just rechecked the paypal bill... it was actually $15.00!!!!

(http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270330586036&ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:CA:1123)

Craig

 

[samo_ott]

Re: 71 and 72 - 18hp Evinrude Prop and other things...

Dont turn the engine too far backwards as you'll flip the impeller vanes and stress them.

 

[cprince]

Re: 71 and 72 - 18hp Evinrude Prop and other things...

Haven't got much done at this point, too much fishing going on with my old set up!

I did, however, get to re-run a compression check on both units trying to help me decide what motor to rebuild. All four cylinders are the same @ 115psi +/- 2 or 3 psi... the play in both are the same on the fly wheel...

What I did find was the "parts" motor still has the drive shaft sticking out of the exhaust column with the LU off... not certain why it is not coming out. I only pulled a little... no vise grips or anything... it is in there good!

Executive decision: Leave the parts motor as the parts motor.

I changed the impeller on the runner... just to get my self started in the frame of mind of getting this job going. That was mostly easy. I am just not sure where the O ring is supposed to go on the drive shaft. When I took it apart, there was an old broken O ring sitting in the tube that has the drive shaft going through the water pump. In the manual it is called a "Drive Shaft O Ring". I took an O ring from an adapter on my compression checker that I don't think I will ever use... exact match!! I saw a recessed grove at the top of the shaft and figured that was where it went. The diagram in the service manual was no real help. Where it had it positioned in the drawing was not possible (in my mind) to stay there. They showed it on the shaft at outside the water pump housing. I can't see it sealing much there.

I also tested the starter. Wow!! It spins!!! The only thing is that either I did not hook up the wiring correctly to the solenoid or it is broken. The two "Hot" poles are easy to figure out... but there are two smaller poles that I am not certain what they are for. One goes to the neutral safety switch and the other pole has nothing attached. The wiring diagram in my service manual shows no neutral safety switch.... instead it has one small pole going to a "switch cable" and the other to ground.

I will post some video and pics in a bit (I am reinstalling my Blackberry).

Shifting

Shifting the motor from F to N to R is not easy. It seems like there is very little movement on the shift leaver to get it into these positions. It just doesn't seem right. I don't have much to compare it to... the parts motor shifts the way I would expect it to... but it has no LU on it!! My Eska is... well.... an Eska. You cant compare that to anything other than another Eska... even then... all bets are off. While I was putting the LU back on, I noticed that if I turn the prop a little (in neutral) then I shift, it seems more the way it should be. There is that satisfying click and the shifter seems to be well seated. Is this normal? When I had the LU off, the shift rod (into the LU) could be actuated the same way the other LU from the parts motor does.

Any suggestions would be quite welcomed!

Last question for this post;

What order should these things be done in?

Carb rebuild
LU seals
*Water pump rebuild* Done!
Condensers
Coils
Points
*Prop rebuild* Bought a new one!
New fuel lines all around
Pull Cord
Fuel pump rebuild
Install the electric start and the solenoid from the parts motor.

I would imagine that there should be *some* order to doing these. Doing one thing could be easier while doing another... I guess?

Thanks for any and all help!!!

Craig

 

[cprince]

Re: 71 and 72 - 18hp Evinrude Prop and other things...

The video did not turn out so well... but all it does is show the starter working when the solinoid is bypassed and not when hooked behind it.

Here is a pic of it working;

This is what I assume to be the proper wiring... but I do not know where one of them go...

Any one?

Craig

 

[cprince]

Re: 71 and 72 - 18hp Evinrude Prop and other things...

Most people are probably out boating and not answering posts on the internet!!!

TTT!

Craig

 

[cprince]

Re: 71 and 72 - 18hp Evinrude Prop and other things...

I suppose I will make this easier for anyone to help me out if I condense my questions in point form:

1) Where does the "Drive Shaft O Ring" go in relation to the water pump?

2) How should the solenoid hook up? (See pictures above)

3) How would I adjust the shifting?

4) In what order should these things be done?

Carb rebuild
LU seals
*Water pump rebuild* Done!
Condensers
Coils
Points
*Prop rebuild* Bought a new one!
New fuel lines all around
Pull Cord
Fuel pump rebuild
Install the electric start and the solenoid from the parts motor.


More details are given in relation to these questions in posts above.
Thanks for any and all suggestions or comments.

Craig

 

[Chinewalker]

Re: 71 and 72 - 18hp Evinrude Prop and other things...

I'll give it a shot...

1- The o-ring goes in the groove at the top of the driveshaft shaft.

2- If you're using a momentary-on starter switch (pushbutton) then you have one switch wire going to the large post on the battery side and the other wire going to the small post next to it (yours appears to have an interrupt, but same idea). You'll also have a wire going from the other small post to ground. The other large post goes to the starter motor post.

3- If the shift rods are assembled correctly in the coupling (both bolts centered in the detents in their respective shafts), then the adjustments are made at the shift handle. There are TWO screws holding the handle to the shift shaft. Loosen both. Remove the cover on the motor leg to access the shift rods with a pair of needle nose pliers. Hold the shaft steady while moving the shift handle fore/aft as needed. Re-tighten the shift handle screws once it is set where you want it.

4- Electric start items should be last. Lower unit seals second to last. Carb (including hoses), waterpump, and ignition are the big three and should be done first. Then you'll be able to find out if the motor runs. Once you've determined that, then you can move on to the seals and electric start.