71 Johnson 50 spark from wiring?? What's your thought?

[jbuote]

Wow,​

Some know I've been struggling a bit, but I got my outboard started today!
Ran pretty well since I haven't adjusted idle mixtures or anything else yet.

I let it run for a few minutes to warm up, hoping the next start would be easier so I could use timing light and get it all set!
I went and grabbed my phone to take a quick vid of it running to THANK F_R and others for help getting me this far!! It was a GREAT feeling!!!

Well, it wasn't.

It wouldn't start again..

After reviewing the video, I noticed something that has me concerned and would LOVE advice... Wish I saw it as it happened...
It sparked.. Looks like from wiring harness to the outer shell, but I'll leave it up to you experienced folks.

Sorry it's poor quality, but It's from my phone..
I edited it for normal speed, slow speed (2 sec) then really slow...


Feeling a bit discouraged, but I'll get this... With your help!!

LINK ISN'T WORKING...
Can't seem to delete it..
I'll post another link to it shortly.. ​

 

[jbuote]

Maybe this link will work to the vid??

 

[F_R]

It sort of works. Image is all schrunched up sideways. But I see the flash you are talking about. That is awesome. Either a short circuit or a loose cable connection, or a missing ground. Don't know without better view and exactly what the spark is between.

 

[jbuote]

Thanks F_R!

Yeah, the vid was from my phone, so it was wacky..

Well, Still haven't found any evidence of where it sparked from..
​I had a problem with the purple/white wire for the choke solenoid, so I fixed that.
The only noticeable effect that had, was now my choke works off the switch too. That's a positive! LOL :laugh:

It actually started right up and ran pretty good today right out of the gate, but when I shut it down, no luck starting for a 2nd time..

How many squeezes on average to get the primer bulb firm? How firm should it really get?
I noticed it gets firm, but then after I shut down, I can still pump away at it. It gets a little harder to squeeze, but can still comfortably do so with thumb and index finger. I stopped at about 50 squeezes. Didn't see any leaking from carbs or venturi area either..

Also,
I've ordered a new ignition switch and it should be here Thursday. I ordered it because of high/unpredictable resistance when in the "Run" position.

That switch wouldn't affect spark would it? My understanding is the switch only grounds the magneto when "Off" and that's all it has to do with "Spark".
Anyway, switch will be replaced by Friday so I'll see if it makes a difference, but I don't think so as far as spark....

 

[F_R]

Squeeze bulbs are crap. All of them. Some are worse crap than others. Don't get all hung up on that.

Your theory about the ignition switch grounding the ignition system in the "off" position is correct. But that isn't the whole story. Because of the high voltage in the kill wire, the voltage can arc across the contacts within the switch, if defective or dirty or wet inside.

 

[racerone]

The primer bulb is not magic.---Primer bulb is a manual fuel pump.---It is used to fill the carburetors and saves your arms and shoulders using the recoil starter and pump on the motor.---On bigger motor it saves having to use the electric starter to fill the carburetors.----If you can keep pumping the bulb there is something wrong.----Bad float valves , bad valves in the bulb , ruptured fuel pump diaphragm or leaks in hoses / pick up tube in the tank.

 

[jbuote]

Thanks!

​So with a "Known" intermittent issue in the switch, it is possible that it COULD be killing the engine when released to the "Run" position. Sometimes it gets a good connection therefore it runs. Sometimes....

Well for the first time in my life, a delivery was early! The new ignition switch showed up about 1/2 hour ago. Wasn't supposed to be here till tomorrow.,
I'll put it in and see if it makes a difference.

As for the squeeze bulb, I won't worry too much about that. I know it's getting fuel into the carb bowls.
I did rebuild the carbs a couple weeks ago with new kits including floats, so I doubt the needles or seats are the issue and I do not suspect improper float adjustment as I spent a LOT of time making sure the float was set right with level and drop..

My hope is the new ignition switch makes for easier starting so I can tune it properly for reliable starting...

Will let you know!!

Thanks again!!!!

 

[jbuote]

So I installed the new ignition and new shifting switch setup.
​Haven't tried to run it yet though because when I was checking out everything with my meter after install, seems I broke the shift switch. It now will do Fwd, or Rev. No neutral. Original switch was broken, so I made my own solution which I'll share in another post but it'll work!

Anyway,
I'm done for tonight as it's getting dark, but the next good day I'll be putting the toggle switch back in for neutral and try to start..

I'll keep you posted!!

Thanks again F_R and racerone!!

 

[jbuote]

Just to close this out, long overdue..
I did end up replacing the shift switch, but with my own creation.

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/eng...c-shift-switch-solution-hope-it-helps-someone

The ignition switch was bad so that helped, but again..
Ultimately it was a sheared flywheel key that was the main issue in getting it to run reliably..

I apologize it took so long.. Just going through any posts I started that don't have an "End", and fixing that..

Thanks again for all the help!!