'72 evinrude 65hp winterization questions

[mike64]

Okay, got my fogging oil and I'm ready for the sad chore of winterization for the first time. I've read many threads on it and I have my service manual, but there's still some stuff I'm unclear on:

I have an "air silencer" covering the carb openings. It looks like I remove the air silencer cover to have access to spray the fogging oil into the carbs?

I'm supposed to spray the oil into the carbs until the motor stalls out, right? Do I spray a little of the oil at a time into each of the 3 carbs to get equal fogging oil in there before it stalls?

And I've been advised to drain the carbs. But that seems to involve a lot of disassembly, removing a bunch of stuff including the intake manifold. Which I will do if need be. But is that really necessary? Is it easier to drain the carbs than the manual makes it sound? Or can I just cut off the fuel and run the motor until it stops, and drain the carbs that way?

 

[Big Bubba]

Re: '72 evinrude 65hp winterization questions

MIKE64,
Good day to you. Yes, it is sad to have to put our boats to bed since winter is right around the corner again. I might be able to get out in my pontoon boat one last time this weekend since it is going to be in the low 80's close to St. Louis Missouri this Columbus Day weekend. Anyway, yes you literally spray fogging oil into each carb until it stalls out but make sure you put Fuel Stabilizer in your fuel/oil mixture before doing the fogging oil procedure so you fuel stabilizer gets into the carbs also. Also make sure you remove the spark plugs and spray foggimg oil into each hole really good and turn the flywheel a few turns to really work that fogging oil inside each cylinder really wheel to keep corrosion from building up. Also, change out your lower leg unit oil and make sure you put new fill/drain screw seals before reinstalling after putting the new gear lube in. Then grease your zerk grease fittings on the baot and your trailer and there you have it and cover her up but before that clean her up and then throw the top on her and you should be good to go for next year. TAke care and have a great weekend, Bob

 

[mike64]

Re: '72 evinrude 65hp winterization questions

Thanks, Bob.

So should I drain my carbs or not? if I use the fuel stabilizer, is just doing that ok instead? I've been told by a couple people I should drain them.

 

[Big Bubba]

Re: '72 evinrude 65hp winterization questions

Yes, I would go ahead and drain your carb bowls so the fuel doesn't dry up and gum on you even though the fuel stabilizer is not suppose to do that on you I have had a freind of mine today tell me he had to rebuild his carbs becuase the fuel gelled up on him. Hope this helps you out. Take care, Bob

 

[jay_merrill]

Re: '72 evinrude 65hp winterization questions

The 1972 JonnyRude 65hp motors have fixed high speed needle valves, with a screw plug in front of them. You do not have to remove the carbs to drain them.

Remove the front and back halves of the air silencer, being careful not to alter the setting on the low speed needle valves, which are llinked via an adjustment rod that passes through the front half of the silencer. Remove the screw plug on each of the three carbs and tilt the motor to drain the carbs.

 

[mike64]

Re: '72 evinrude 65hp winterization questions

Thanks Jay! I was hoping you'd stop by this thread, having the exact same motor as me.

 

[mike64]

Re: '72 evinrude 65hp winterization questions

It seems like I need to remove the low speed adjustment levers, at least the ones on top and bottom to remove the arm linkage that controls all three levers to get the back half of the silencer off. How do I remove those? I'm afraid to break them, since they're just plastic. The top and bottom levers seem to be broken anyway-- the middle lever actually turns the low speed needle, but the top and bottom ones are just turning loose around the needles. How to remove those levers, and how do they get secured back on? I have a pic showing one of the levers.

 

[jay_merrill]

Re: '72 evinrude 65hp winterization questions

They should come off easily by pulling them towards you, as you face the front of the motor.

BTW, you can remove the fixed jets too, but you need a special screwdriver to do it. Its basically a #3 straight-slot screwdriver, which has narrower shoulders to fit in the orifice that the jet sits in. If you make your own by grinding down an old screwdriver, be sure to maintain the thickness of the blade tip and keep the shoulders square. I mention removing the jets simply because the fuel will probably drain more easily and more completely with them out of the orifice.

By way of disclaimer, I have had my carbs apart (had some junk from fuel system), but I've never had to just drain them. Since I live in a year round boating area, winterizing is not an issue for me. I can tell you, however, that my OEM service manual indicates that the screw plugs that I mentioned are to be used for draining the carbs.

 

[mike64]

Re: '72 evinrude 65hp winterization questions

Thanks, Jay. Yeah, I was able to figure out how to get the low speed arms off, got brave enough to exert enough pressure from behind with some pliers and they popped off. The splines on the top and bottom low speed needles are worn down and that's why the arms (or levers, the manual seems to call them two different things) were just turning freely around them. So I added low speed needles to the parts list I'm going to order over the winter. Shame because I took one out and the needle itself is perfect, no sign of wear.

After that it was a piece of cake to get to the carb drain screws. Motor's all fogged and drained now.

My replacement parts list and fixup list for next spring just keeps on growing. The joys of boat ownership...

 

[jay_merrill]

Re: '72 evinrude 65hp winterization questions

When you order the needle valves, ask about the needle valve seats. I've not had to completely rebuild my carbs (had the shop do that when I bought the motor), so I am not exactly sure what the part looks like. The needle valves and the needle valve seats are supposedly a matched set, so that is something that you will need to consider.

 

[mike64]

Re: '72 evinrude 65hp winterization questions

Thanks again Jay, good tip on the needle valve seats.

 

[codester]

Re: '72 evinrude 65hp winterization questions

It seems like I need to remove the low speed adjustment levers, at least the ones on top and bottom to remove the arm linkage that controls all three levers to get the back half of the silencer off. How do I remove those? I'm afraid to break them, since they're just plastic. The top and bottom levers seem to be broken anyway-- the middle lever actually turns the low speed needle, but the top and bottom ones are just turning loose around the needles. How to remove those levers, and how do they get secured back on? I have a pic showing one of the levers.

THANK YOU!!! Very relieved to have finally found this post as it is exactly what I needed to read. I am in a similar process of not winterizing but carb cleaning and possibly re-build kit. I also was very scared to put the plastic and didn't want to break and thought it needed a special quick release tool. Oh I am happy. Finally confident to go ahead.

I have a 1980 Johnson 65 HP. Is there any links with a good step by step and pictures of carb re-builds that would be similar to my motor that would help me. If you could point me in yet again the right direction would be awesome! Cody