'72 Glastron GT160

[banshee owner]

AMD if i may suggest your bilge area you may want a little bigger and a removable cover that will rest on the stringers and your cross piece. Thats what ive decided to do with my bilge if serves two purposes one allows the gas tank to sit dead center and the removable hatch which is fairly big gives lots of room to work on the bilge pump or get the drain plug in and out. i hated trying to work on the bilge before i tore my boat apart. Just my opinion what ever you decide will be great cheers

 

[AMD Rules]

Today I filled in the strakes. Used a wood strip and thickened resin (chopped strand and cabosil). Once it cured I ground them down flat to the hull and will put a layer of 1708 over them. Turned out well, and much better/stronger than the factory strakes.

The transom knees are built, just waiting to glass them in.

Transom is visually ugly, but it appears to be very solid and flat. Should clean up nicely in the end.

 

[AMD Rules]

Decided against my original plan, and did not add knees to the bilge walls. Having the ability two place two portable fuel tanks back there seems like the appropriate thing to do. Can't change my mind now as I have already started to bed the stringers in today.
I added a center drain hole, that will be the -only- opening under the floor, for inspection purposes. I will add surface water drainage holes in the knees at the transom after I add the main flooring.

The floor the fuel tank is on is 3/4", the rest will be 1/2"

 

[AMD Rules]

Been great weather here today, and I made quite a bit of progress although the pics won't suggest I have. The stringers are all bedded in now, ready for final sanding and glassing. Picked up the 1/2" plywood for the flooring today. Hopefully this will be a productive 4-day weekend, goal being to have the cap temporarily placed on and the floor glassed in. We'll see.
Zooming out a bit, here's the boat today. My two loyal helpers inspecting my work as I progressed.

I am planning on adding cross members every four feet and likely under the area where the seats are, before the floor goes in.

 

[AMD Rules]

Well, must be time for an update. 4-day weekend (Canada Day), and needless to say I'm sunburnt and exhausted.
I was able to get the stringers tabbed in, a layer of CSM and 1708 for each, on both sides. I added two cross-members (they aren't touching the hull in these photos, until I get the cap back on. I'm not an expert at fiberglass, and there is quite a few areas where I could net get the air out, but it is way better than the factory and once it is foamed I'm sure it will be just fine.

I've used about 9 gallons of resin so far, running low. Used all my chip brushes, cabosil, and acetone. Needless to say supplies are dwindling. I have lots of cloth and matt left, which should more than do for the floor.
I was fortunate today that my father volunteered to be around to assist while we lowered the cap back on (temporarily until the floor is bedded into position).

Wasn't too hard, fit great. Every screw is in the original hole.

The rear spoilers lined up nicely, and should pull right back into place without a problem.

I'll have my work cut out for me to try and repair the splash well skin. It will be a while before I get to that point.

I have a few floor sections to cut, then I'll tab them into hold the hull and remove the cap again.

 

[banshee owner]

AMD if may say that's an awesome job. my boat being similar to yours how thick did you make your transom. judging from the pics you got your cap to fit alot better than i did. I installed mine last night as a test fit i think my transom is too thick.

Also did you cut the splash well so you could fit the transom without issues or just because it was damaged

great job again wish mine went together that easy

 

[AMD Rules]

Also did you cut the splash well so you could fit the transom without issues or just because it was damaged.....

Thanks, I'll take a look at your thread shortly. To answer your question above, for both reasons. The inner splash well skin needs to be securely bonded to the transom itself, keeping in mind the upper motor mounts are there. Any gap beneath the skin would cause a big issue with cracking or distorting the skin when you tighten the motor mounting bolts. Mine was damaged a lot, so cutting it out was an easy decision. I didn't cut the transom skin very far back at all, and I still ended up with a gap all the way around. The transom is two 3/4" ply with a layer of 1-1/2oz csm and 1708 in between. Another layer of csm on the back side if I recall, and a layer of csm and 1708 cover the exposed face. Tabbed all around the perimeter with the same combination. Is around 2" thick, but I haven't measured it.

Appreciate the feedback, good luck with your project.
Chris

 

[AMD Rules]

Well, a shorter weekend this weekend. I've been distracted with other tasks. My other project involves a mid 80's SeaRay which has 170hp 4cyl motor issues (ate a set of rings). Just got the motor back from the machine shop after 10 months. New rings, bearings, blah blah blah. Looks good. I re-assembled the manifolds, water, fuel, and electrical systems. It is ready to install once I get the boat ready.

Latest in the season I've ever uncovered my boat.... hopefully I get one the water soon.

I think I need another workshop...I'm running out of room!

.

 

[SDSeville]

Looking great Chris! Nice work. ...and the 470 looks beautiful too.

 

[AMD Rules]

Ok, today I successfully launched the SeaRay for the season with the rebuilt motor. 100% successful, ran great no issues at all.

 

[AMD Rules]

Now I can get back on the Glastron project!! I also assembled & fired up the 150hp Merc that's going on that project as well.

 

[AMD Rules]

I went to the dollar store looking for some bristol board to make some floor template, and was pleased to find 1/8" thk foam board instead. Much better than what I had planned for and dirt cheap. This must be craft material, or backing boards for posters I suspect. Makes a great material choice for quick templates, as it stays flat even better than cardboard and its easy to cut.

I've cut three 4ft sections, which will leave about 10" section up at the bow that I will cut to fit later once I remove the cap for the last time. That will be a good area to adequately vent when I foam the floor.

I have lots of csm remaining, so I have chosen to glass the underside of the flooring after adding a coat of resin.

That's it for today.

Also,

Anyone have a set, or know where to find 'em?

 

[Woodonglass]

the underside of All decks should always be sealed with resin and a layer of CSM unless you're using Epoxy.

 

[AMD Rules]

the underside of All decks should always be sealed with resin and a layer of CSM unless you're using Epoxy.

Thanks WOG,

Appreciate the feedback. I'm new to the process as you can tell

 

[AMD Rules]

Last couple of days I proceeded to put the floor down. I drilled 2" holes for pouring foam later. Near the edges it would have been too close to the hull to drill holes once its down. Still planning on not having any screws in the floor if I can avoid it. I have a few in there now temporarily. The bilge area turned out well.

Just need to add some glass in key areas, then I can pop the top to foam everything and complete the final glassing.

 

[Woodonglass]

How do your seats Mount?

 

[AMD Rules]

How do your seats Mount?

Good question. The rear seat is hinged to the top cap. Front seats are low profile pedestal mounted to a small raised plywood mounting surface. I haven't decided for certain yet what I will do, but I'll probably glass similar plywood mounts down with stainless bolts pre-installed facing upwards as studs so to speak.

 

[AMD Rules]

Zero progress on the hull, but I did pick up a motor cowling mounted trim switch (was missing) and a manual jack plate.

Reason for that specific jack plate is that it is convertible from 2-1/2" or 5" offset. I may not need offset, but not having to remove the bolts from the transom each time I remove the motor could extend the life of the transom over time (less risk of water intrusion). That's my theory and I'm sticking to it

I have quite a bit of slop between the exhaust housing steering swivel and the bushings. Because I mis-matched years of parts I either have worn bushings (possible) or Mercury changed the diameter or clearances of the bushings/swivel arm over the years and mixing the parts was not a wise choice. Not too sure yet, we'll see. Anyone have much experience rebuilding Merc transom swivel assemblies? I'd like to make it as solid as possible, and may even consider solid motor mounts. Bushing easy to remove & replace?

1985

Approx 1993

 

[AMD Rules]

No progress this weekend due to poor weather, and taking a break to go boating instead. I did however find a sweet deal on a used ski pylon. Being optimistic that someday I'll have this boat back on the water

My previous boat had a very similar setup.

Having a goal for ZERO holes in my new floor could prove challenging while I try to figure out how to mount that vertical post! Its designed to have a 1/2-turn to twist and lock into a 4" x 8" metal plate that is anchored to the floor.