73 115hp starting problems

[wmgraphics]

Re: 73 115hp starting problems

Well I got the LU up and flush. Started her up and vooom.. good. I shifted it into gear and prop spun. Now, the pee hole is either just barely squirting water out on the right side (looking at the motor from the front) and a constant dribbling out on the left. I increased the engine throttle while in gear by hand and it didn't really change much. Although, once I shut off the motor it started peeing just fine and eventually ran out. Did I put the impeller on backwards? I thought I put it on right. The original impeller was badly damaged and was missing chunks and wings. Do you think that some of these bits of impeller are lodged up in the cooling system somewhere? Or maybe that last 1/4 inch on the LU to flush install damaged one of the water tubes?

Thanks for all your help by the way!

 

[ezeke]

Re: 73 115hp starting problems

Be sure that you can keep your fingers on both cylinder heads for a full three second count whenever the engine is running. The thermostat (vernatherm) is only a 105 degree open and you only have one.

If you want real insurance, add a real tell-tale and you will not have to keep running back to check; even better, add a gauge as well:

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=222677

I think the parts for a OEM tell-tale will still run less than $20. US.

 

[wmgraphics]

Re: 73 115hp starting problems

OK, this is the other situation...

I can shift the motor into forward and reverse no problem from the remote. Once it is in gear I cannot push the throttle control clevis (remote) full throttle, so the motor stays basically at idle speed. I can however increase the motor speed or throttle by manually (by hand) moving the spark advance lever on the throttle assembly forward with a bit of pressure. It does however feel a bit stiff or slow like molasses, like a bunch of old bond up grease is in there.
So I know it moves, I just cannot do it using the controls and cables, most likely do to the stiffness. As for the remote itself, it works fine. The remote goes into forward and reverse fully along with the cables. Why is this thing so stiff or slow? Should it be normally very responsive? Do you think it is compacted with old grease or the spring in dislodged or jammed? Should I take it apart (throttle assembly)? If I do, will the spring jump out and/or will it be difficult to put back together?

My wife is jealous of my motor!

 

[wmgraphics]

Re: 73 115hp starting problems

Ezeke,

First, great post you sent me, most definitely on my list of things to do. Thanks and great idea!

Next, Yes I can leave my fingers on the heads for 3 seconds. My manual says that water less than 130 deg returns back to the pump while water 130+ deg goes through the "water discharge"? Where does the water from the discharge come out of the engine? Does this water come out the pee holes or does the recirculated water come out the pee holes or maybe both? If the 130 deg + water which goes through the therm only comes out the pee holes, than maybe I didn't let my motor get hot enough for the therm to open up and create a full stream (pee hole). Now if this is not the issue, than I may have the impeller on backwards not pushing enough water for a full stream (pee). Looking down at the impeller in the water pump on the shaft, which way do the blades bend... to the left or to the right? In my manual there is a drawing shows the blades bend to the right. If this is so I have mine to the left... oops.

One thing to note: When the motor is running I see water dripping from the left hose where it connects to the head (aft view/ back of motor). My question is... is this where the water enters the heads and returns to the lower end from the other hose on the right head?

 

[ezeke]

Re: 73 115hp starting problems

Ideally, you push the water pump housing down while you turn the drive shaft clockwise and the impeller blades just have to go along in the right direction.

It does not matter where you put them, as soon as you run the motor hard the drive shaft is going to turn clockwise, dragging the impeller in only one direction and the impeller blades will be left hanging back in a counterclockwise direction. Your only concern is to be absolutely sure that the water is over the pump whenever you run the engine.

The cooling water comes through the engine first, then is cut on and off as it passes out by the thermostat. That is why it is important to actually feel the heads; if the water were not moving, it would be boiling, the temp switch would sound the alarm, and you would find your fingers uncomfortable.

If you have leaks in the hoses from the cylinder heads, you will need to use gasket sealer on the nipples and put better clamps on.