73 Johnson 6hp Flywheel Off

[htr2133]

Thanks to all who contribute on this site; I was able to get the flywheel off easily and visually inspect the ignition system.

I am impressed how clean and "not old" the parts appear. This motor has been in my family for 20+ years and to my knowledge the ignition has never been checked. I am trying to post a pic and just wondering if these are original to the motor? Also, the points look good based on Ramblings and What I've read on this site. I will definitely clean them really good and gap them.

Several have diagnosed on another post that my motor is likely running on only one cylinder. I also could not get spark on the bottom cylinder so that makes sense. What would you guys suggest at this point? Should I replace the coils and plug wires at least in addition to cleaning and gapping the points?

Also, what is the easiest way to turn the crank when setting/gapping the points? I don't want to mess the threads up on the shaft.

 

[htr2133]

No Title

 

[hardwater fisherman]

When turning the crank I just thread the nut on the crank and turn with a socket and long breaker bar. Only turn the crank clockwise. My manual states that you can damage the water pump impeller by turning it the wrong way. Those coils look ok but you cant go by looks alone.

 

[racerone]

Those coils appear to be replacements.------Clean the points and see if you get spark that will jump a gap of 1/4" or more.-----It might be a good idea to inspect / replace pump impeller.

 

[htr2133]

Will start w the cleaning gapping points then. I assume I can check w spark by placing the flywheel on and just hand tightening the nut and turn by hand?

 

[AlTn]

both plugs out, motor in neutral...a corded or cordless drill < not an impact drill > chucked with a socket to fit the f/w nut should spin it easily you can try other means as well and it doesn't hurt to have another set of eyes and hands helping...if the points cleaning alone doesn't restore the spark to that lower cylinder...pull the boot off the lower wire, remove the terminal end, cut about 1/4" off the wire, push the terminal end back on and reinstall into the boot < may need a little wd to lube the boot >, test for spark...seems that lower cylinder wire/terminal end are more prone to corrosion than the upper one

 

[racerone]

??/------Why use a drill.-------The recoil is right there to use.-------Good spark will easily jump a gap of 1/4"

 

[AlTn]

true...if the recoil is still installed

 

[htr2133]

Great stuff. Recoil is indeed still installed.

 

[htr2133]

Thanks so much guys! I did have a point that was loose. I gapped the points, cleaned the hell out of the point contacts. Put flywheel back on hand tight and checked for spark. Was still having trouble getting spark on bottom cylinder. Pulled the boot off and cut it back to expose new copper. Jammed it back in the boot and got good spark. Re-torqued the flywheel and put it in tank, started easy, idled much better, put it in gear and wot for a few seconds and it sounded great! I'm excited!

I'm taking it to the lake to test run better than I could in the tank. Is there some way to make sure the boot doesn't come loose? I can't imagine it is tight on the lead wires.

 

[racerone]

There is supposed to be a spring thingy on the end of the lead.

 

[AlTn]

as raceer states...did the terminal end get stuck in the boot and you pulled the spark plug wire out of it and the boot?..if so, remove it from the boot, shove the spike through the metal wire core of the lead and then push it into the boot so that the spring is facing upwards in the boot..the spring snaps onto the spark plug when it is installed...look at the upper boot and you can see how the spring is oriented...hopefully

 

[htr2133]

Thanks, yes the terminal end of the lead stayed in the boot. I'll try to follow the instructions to get that back in correctly.

The motor is running much better but it misses at higher rpms. I think it could be bc of the loose lead vibrating.