73' mercruiser rewire

[GSPLures]

I appreciate it. I am thinking of using #2 for the exhaust manifold gasket since there was flexible gasket maker on it when I removed. Then also the circulation pump and thermostat housing. Then use #3 on the bolts I dont want to take any chances of it messing with the torque of the bolts since it remains flexible.

 

[GSPLures]

I got the motor painted. I cleaned up the exhaust manifold yesterday, I plan on cleaning up the gasket surfaces tonight and putting the end caps up. I am going to let the manifold sit for 24 hours before testing with acetone so the permatex has a full cure then fingers crossed install back on the motor. Hopefully I do not have to buy a new one. (I do plan on changing the spark plugs and oil filter. Easier then trying to tape all that off)

 

[GSPLures]

Well I finally got around to testing the manifold. Right now I have it sitting with water for 30 minutes. I know that water has too much surface tension. I figured I would do this first because if it leaks with water it will leak with acetone so no reason to waste the acetone. If the manifold passes the water test I will test with acetone.

 

[GSPLures]

The manifold checks out which makes me happy! The $300 can go towards the deck and interior and I can finish putting the motor back together and get the wire harness going.

 

[GSPLures]

Sorry its been a while since I updated. I put the rest of the motor back together then installed the deck in my boat. I hung the motor to get my front mounts placed.

I used the newer serrated mounts that do not need the coiled washer. When I aligned the motor I could not drop the front low enough to get a good alignment.

I installed the coil washers and was able to get the motor aligned (not perfect but close enough to place my mounts).

Now the front is about a 1/4" shy of the maximum height it can go.

My questions are:
Is it ok to use the coil washer with the newer serrated mounts if it aligns correctly with the rear mounts torqued properly?

Should I add 3/4 ply to the top of the front mounts to give some more room to adjust up?
(I figure it should be ok due to the fact that the rear will eventually sag and not raise, but you guys are smarter than me)

I posted pics of my alignment marks not the best pictures(phone sucks) and I accidentally wiped the bottom while pulling out the alignment bar but marks are there.

Thank you

 

[dubs283]

Is it ok to use the coil washer with the newer serrated mounts if it aligns correctly with the rear mounts torqued properly?

Should I add 3/4 ply to the top of the front mounts to give some more room to adjust up?
(I figure it should be ok due to the fact that the rear will eventually sag and not raise, but you guys are smarter than me)

it is recommended to NOT use the coil washers with the new style rear mounts (from mercruiser). i would not because the new style mounts are "taller" than the old style meaning they are already at the proper height for the coupler to be square with the gimbal housing/bearing

did you also install the new style bushings in the gimbal housing mounts?

the rear of the engine should not sag over time unless you have severe transom rot, usually the stringers or in your case the cross member in the hull would be susceptible to rot/sagging

you need to repair/modify the hull/cross member for the front mount to align the engine properly

fyi the only inboard engines i've seen painted red are volvo and ford diesel, but it's your engine

 

[GSPLures]

it is recommended to NOT use the coil washers with the new style rear mounts (from mercruiser). i would not because the new style mounts are "taller" than the old style meaning they are already at the proper height for the coupler to be square with the gimbal housing/bearing

did you also install the new style bushings in the gimbal housing mounts?

the rear of the engine should not sag over time unless you have severe transom rot, usually the stringers or in your case the cross member in the hull would be susceptible to rot/sagging

you need to repair/modify the hull/cross member for the front mount to align the engine properly

fyi the only inboard engines i've seen painted red are volvo and ford diesel, but it's your engine

Yes I did install the new style bushings. The transom is brand new along with all stringers bulkheads and deck. I hung the motor to get the placement for the front mounts.

I have not glassed in the front mount yet because I wanted to make sure it would be the correct height for the motor.

Not sure why engine color matters but I guess I can explain why it is red. I wanted a lighter color that I can see any leaks or potential signs of problems (blacks not the best color for that) The outside of the boat is red so I figured why not.

 

[GSPLures]

This is the pictures of the front mount. I can shave it down about 1" before glassing it in, and get alignment with flat washer.

I was asking because if I can use the coiled washer, id rather leave more wood on the mount for longer lags to secure the front.

I know that they are not supposed to be used with the new style mount, just trying to get clarification to why they could not be used if the front adjustment is bottomed out.