73 Reinell Rebuild

[jacobsenranch]

Re: 73 Reinell Rebuild

Well painting the exerior of the hull and cap will be the first thing after I finnish gutting it. But looking at marine paints I am lost, and that's bad, my dads a painter and paints and painting is not a new thing.

Whats the differences in paints and primers and what should I use?
What sort of prep work needs to be done before I start?
Its a trailerd boat to can I use topside paint on the hull?
And can I have marine paint tinted?
Roll on, brush on or other wise?

I've tried reading treads and researching but I'm not having much luck finding a thread or site with enough details. Im hoping to buy paint this weekend the sooner the better!

 

[ezmobee]

Re: 73 Reinell Rebuild

You can use topside everywhere on a trailered boat. You can roll it or spray it. There's tons of paints out there that will work. All comes down to how much you want to spend. Lots of people here have had great luck with good old Rustoleum. Or you can step up to a two-part marine paint. Up to you.

 

[jacobsenranch]

Re: 73 Reinell Rebuild

Ok ive decided to go Rustolium topside and rustolium Marine primer. I photo shopped a picture of what I want. A hunter forest green and musterd. No not john deer lol.

 

[jacobsenranch]

Re: 73 Reinell Rebuild

My husband and I Have been working on taking the boat apart for the last week and things are going well all though I'm not sure what to do about the section of rub rail we
cannot get off. There Is just no way to get to the nuts in the corners of the bow. I fear I will end up cutting it off with a grinder. But Its stainless steel and finding the
exact replacement would be very difficult. So I am considering cutting hole on each side of the cap inside of the seating area to get them out and just repair it later Is this a huge mistake? I really don't want to have to replace a stainless steel rub rail with a expensive rubber one the would make the turns I need around the front of the Bow.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 73 Reinell Rebuild

Drill it out with a drill

 

[dOb]

Re: 73 Reinell Rebuild

Are you saying that it is a solid stainless rub rail with no rubber insert? And that it's attached with nuts inside the cap?

I looked back at some of your pictures. It looks different than mine. Mine was attached with rivets under the rubber insert. I just drilled out the rivets out.

If you can get to the corner, can you pry the rail out enough to cut the bolts? I know you want to save the rail, but maybe you could figure out a way to reattach it down the road. It seems like that would be easier than fixing holes in the cap.

 

[jacobsenranch]

Re: 73 Reinell Rebuild

Yes it is a solid stainless steel rail and attached with bolts because it is so solid it is impossible to pry away from the boat. After looking at it again I think have
no other option other than to go through a hole I will make in the seat. Also I won't need to fix it since I"m building up the bow to a bass fishing platform and
pedestal seat. What do you think?

 

[dOb]

Re: 73 Reinell Rebuild

Sure, if it won't bend then you might as well cut the seating area. Even if you wanted to keep the bow seating, you could patch it up later. But it sounds like you're going to cover it up and rebuild that area anyway. So why not, save the rail and cut a hole.

 

[jacobsenranch]

Re: 73 Reinell Rebuild

Great then that is what I will do! Thanks dob!!!

 

[jacobsenranch]

Re: 73 Reinell Rebuild

So we did end up cutting holes in the seats to get to the bolts but im not real worried about it since it will get covered by the fishing deck. But we now how the cap off and strated cutting out the deck in the frount of the bow. after getting under the wood deck and pulling out foam we can see th extensive damage to the stringers and will not
be able to use them as a stencil. :facepalm: But we can save the bow end of the deck and transom for stencil's. We can see where there appears to be more glassed in
wood in the bow but we are not going to attempt to remove it until it is on the cradle. We will continue work on removing more deck and foam tonight.

 

[jacobsenranch]

Re: 73 Reinell Rebuild

How much CSM will one gallon of polyester resin cover?

 

[Outback Jack]

Re: 73 Reinell Rebuild

Check out this thread http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=288451 and read the fiberglass info...alot of good info there...but to answer your question approx. 4 sq yards.
Looks like you will be doing a complete restore...look at it this way when you are done you will know what you have and feel safe

 

[oops!]

Re: 73 Reinell Rebuild

hi....welcome to the dry dock !

for pics of cradles...look at the thread in my sig. page 1 i think...also all the glassing info you need.

ok....forget about the deck vynal and upholstery for right now....you are a loooong way from that.

do not do the gellcoat repairs till the stringers and deck are back in......if the boat is not supported porperly....they will re crack after you have the boat back in good form.

rip out all the foam and rotten wood. grind the transom out.
replace transom first.....
replace stringers.
replace foam;deck....do this in several different ways...so the order you do it in is of no consequence.

after the deck is in....then you can play with the out side.....but understand....the out side will take less than one day.....you can whip thru that stuff after you learn the basics of glassing. if you do it before...you will want to re do it as your levl of experance gets higher.

right now......the wood is of your highest priority....start drying your plywood now....i use ext grade ply...not osb.....but ply...
if you buy two one inch sheets....this will do half your transom and all of your stringers.
grab another 3/4 inch sheet for the rest of the transom....and 3 sheets of 1/2 inch for the deck.

you are going to need 10 gals of unwaxed poly resin....
1 l of mekp.
a full bucket of milled fibers
a full bucket of 1/4 inch short strand glass.
5 gals of acetone.
lots of paint rollers....did i say lots?.....i meant bazillions of them.
5 yards of 1708 bi axe fiberglass....
and about 30 yards of 1.5 oz csm

that will get you started

cheers
oops

one thing.....i would replace the rollers with bunks......you allmost have all the hardware there.....and the swap is not that difficult.

 

[jacobsenranch]

Re: 73 Reinell Rebuild

Trailer:
Yeah I'm going to switch those rollers out to carpeted 2x6 wood bunks. Its not perfect but I will have better support than it has now.

Boat:
I have already built a cradle for it in the garage.

Also Im planing on using Rustolium Topside over the old gel coat. Will that work? I have allot of people coming over to help me flip the hull because Im hoping to sand and paint to while its upside down. I would rather touch up a few areas later than paint it on the cradle. After we flip back over onto the cradle it willhave memory foam between the fresh paint and the cradle. Painting the whole thing right side up after the deck is in really wont work in my situation.
Im going to use 60 grit with my orbital sander and the 100 grit before wiping it down, then a primer then paint.

Wood will be my next priority then resin and glass.

Why is the buckets of fibers needed? I'm new to glassing. Could'nt I just use CSM or woven mat?

What is the acetone for? dont forget my boat isnt as big as yours. lol

 

[oops!]

Re: 73 Reinell Rebuild

Also Im planing on using Rustolium Topside over the old gel coat. Will that work?

Im going to use 60 grit with my orbital sander and the 100 grit before wiping it down, then a primer then paint.


Why is the buckets of fibers needed? I'm new to glassing. Could'nt I just use CSM or woven mat?

What is the acetone for? dont forget my boat isnt as big as yours. lol

yes the rustolium will work....johnny used some on his glastron tri....and had good results.

the rustolieum is a really thick paint....so 100 grit might be ok....i would be tempted to go as high as a 240 before prime......remember...in paint...the finish is in the prep

the milld fibers are for a bedding compound or fiberglass filler we call peanut butter.....you will see it mentioned on every single resotration thread here.

the acetone is the miracle cleaner for fiberglass and gellcoat......it also kinds re activates the styrene in the fiberglass....and get it ready for a new laminate to go down.

 

[jacobsenranch]

Re: 73 Reinell Rebuild

Hey thats some very sound advice to heed thank you! I was up till 4:00am reading your thread its very long. But there is allot of great information in there. Well some of the shops in my area are telling me to use Fir 2x8's or 2x12's to replace the stringers. I am thinking it would be a little easier for novice like my self. And since I can only rarely get my Hubby to help..... ? But it is a bad idea please tell me. I've been looking at resins from USComposites and Tap Plastics and at those prices I'll have to buy one bucket a month along with some wood until I have all of the supplies. lol I guess in the meantime I can give the motor a tune up and paint job. That I know how to do
Where did you get your resin?

What should I use for bedding for the stringers?

How can I hook up the motor to see if it is running properly off of the boat?

 

[oops!]

Re: 73 Reinell Rebuild

1.slap your hubby up side the head
2. a 5 gal pail of poly resin is 125 bux if you dont have an account. they buy it at less than a dollar a pound....so there is lots of markup and room to move on the price.
get boat resin, or cheap decking resin......even the cheapest polyester resin is far stronger then you will ever need. i get my resin locally from a industrial fiberglass shop. it is from composites one.
3. plywood on edge is stronger than a piece of lumber
4. 8 inches is high for a stringer, and plywood can be more easily cut down than a piece of lumber.
5. the stringers cam be bedded by shiming the stringer 1/8 the inch (or close...dont get anal about this...just off the hull will do) with pl construction adhesive or the peanut butter i was talking about. i like the peanut butter....it is more expensive...but it cures in less than 2 hrs and can be worked with allmost instantly, where as the pl needs at least 24 hours to cure and then you have to use peanut butter to round out the edges any how !
6. starting the motor on the floor is easy.....just make sure it is properly supported.....hook up water to the motor...gas to the fuel pump. a battery to the starter. and let er rip !

 

[jacobsenranch]

Re: 73 Reinell Rebuild

So is this a decent work slash buying schedule to try to follow or am I dreaming? As long as Murphy stays far, far away I think it might work if i'm diligent.

September: One bucket resin and glassing supplies and finish transom.
October: One bucket plus leftovers of the old bucket, more glass and finish the stringers.
November:Another bucket, more glass and get the deck in and finished.
December: Two part foam, seal up holes, replace trailer bunks, get carpet in and reattach cap.
January: Build my bow deck for the fishing platform, and carpet.
February: Build frames for my seats and attach motor.
March: connect linkage, assemble steering console, work on upholstery.
April: Finish upholstery, complete electronics and fuel system.
May: Hit the lake! I hope....
.

 

[jacobsenranch]

Re: 73 Reinell Rebuild

So if I were to go by my hopeful schedule. What supplies/materials do I need to complete the transom? And get it in the boat?

 

[jacobsenranch]

Re: 73 Reinell Rebuild

Well we put it on the cradle and finished cutting out the stringers and deck. we still have alot of grinding down to do and we still have to cut out the side hull supports. But we found a few questionable areas in the middle of the hull so we decided to pull the boat back onto the trailer and take it down to the water to check for leaks. And..... NO LEAKS YAY!!! so in the morning I will get back to work on the grinding. In hopes it will be ready for a new transom next month.