75hp stinger 1975 need help. Bogging down.

[70'smotorguy]

I had the same problem with my 1976 evinrude 70hp and it ended up being moisture mixing with the ethanol in the fuel and settling to bottom of tank.. Looks sorta milky white.. I read about aluminum built in tanks that are always vented draws in lots of conensation and creates that problem... Anyhow I done away with alum inside tank and now I just toss a cpl plastic portable tanks in where the original was... All good now

 

[Brabbtiger22]

Ok so the advance timing base is sticking when I'm throttling down to go faster. The carb flaps all open to pour gas in, but the timer is sticking under the fly wheel. Any idea how to fix that?

 

[Keyboardman]

Did you check that the metal tab holding the wires is not hindering the timer base movement? Proper way to fix it is to remove the flywheel and the timing base and clean and lube underneath it. Make sure the tapers are clean and dry on the flywheel on reassembly and torque it to specs.

 

[Brabbtiger22]

I'm going to check the tab tomorrow! I have an external 6 gallon tank that I have ran before with this same boat and it did the same bogging down with the 6 gallon tank so I don't believe water getting into the tank is the main problem, but that could definitely add to it for sure. Haven't thought of that. As far as the timer base when I unhook the lever from it, the timer doesn't move freely. I was told the timer should be able to move easier. Well I have to shove it to move it forward or backwards. Feels like the bearings around it have rusted and I know this motor sat for 13 years without running outside in a pasture. So I'm willing to bet it's sticking with lack of grease. I haven't noticed any exhaust leaks, but I'll search for some. I know there is no leaking from the crankcase gaskets. No oil seeping through or burnt areas showing. If there is a leak it would have to be in the shaft

 

[Brabbtiger22]

Fireman57 Im glad someone knows my pain on these engines haha. I have read on a few sites where people have had to redrill the Jets bc they were like 0.32 and needed to be 0.33-0.34 or something like that, so in the next year's model 76 they corrected the issue apparently. What size drill bit did you use for yours? If you can remember. Just in case it comes to that. I had someone one time priming the bulb as I reved up to get it out of the hole. It use to work, but now I just slowly bring the engine up throddle wise and its like it catches becomes smooth and slowly takes off. Onces she's in the hole I can fly all over the place .

 

[fireman57]

I just ordered the right size jets new and installed them. Hole shot definitely improved but would still have a slight pause before taking off. If you can find the service bulletin, I used to have it but can't find it now, it tells you what size drill bits to use. There were 2 years that these were a pain.

 

[Keyboardman]

I have the TSB on the carb problem. I could scan it and send it to you. It's not difficult to do if you have any prior knowledge of working on carbs. You will need a good numbered drill bit set. I found a set of later year carbs that were already changed in the factory.

 

[fireman57]

This topic seems to come up a lot. Maybe you can post it in the sticky notes so we can refer people to there. There is no reason for him to chase another problem until this is done except a compression test.
Can you post it on this thread for the OP?

 

[flyingscott]

to free up the timer base on them get some fast evaporating brake cleaner. Spray it all around the bottom of the timer base and work the timer base while you are spraying. Make sure your link and sync is correct and you want between a 1\8-1/4 " gap between the roller and cam. Those motors like a little timing before the carbs open.

 

[Keyboardman]

I have the TSB # 1429 in a PDF file. It's 4 pages. Anyone know how I can post it here?

 

[fireman57]

Ask one of the mods if they would put it in a sticky at the top of the page. Mods?

 

[Brabbtiger22]

If I pull the flywheel should I use oil or marine grease around the timer base to prevent the sticking from happening again once everything is back on? I haven't tried the evaporating brake cleaner, but I tried using wd-40 and it didn't do a thing

 

[flyingscott]

Have you checked to make sure the holes in the hood are clear? NO grease on the timer base. Usually when the exhaust starts leaking on them you get water in the cylinders.

 

[Brabbtiger22]

Yes the holes are clear checked that . That timer base really sticks. I have to shove it forward. Ok I won't put grease on it. Someone mentioned just putting a little engine oil around the outside of it b4 reinserting. With ur finger so to speak.

 

[racerone]

The timer base should move easily.----A little dab of grease in 4 or 5 spots is recommended on the plastic keeper.--A few dabs on the bore of the base too.--I do and never a problem.

 

[Brabbtiger22]

Thank you racerone! Pulling that flywheel tomorrow. Bought the 1-5/16 socket and the puller set. Ready to get her running right. Will post results. Thanks guys

 

[Brabbtiger22]

Ok so I pulled the flywheel . The timer base was definitely a little tight. Put a small about of grease on the base of it and stuck it back on there. Had to take the stator off to get to it, but that was just 3-4 bolts. Simple. Literally took me under an hour to do everything. I also took one of those wire holders (lips) off. So the wire would move more freely with the timer base as it goes forward. Works like a charm now. Moves like its suppose to. I cranked up the engine and for some reason it sounds a little louder. Like exhaust wise louder. Alot of smoke came out of the exhaust at first and then cleared up after running for 30 seconds. Thought that was odd. We did have alot of rain here the last 3 days straight so I bet some condensation got into the tank. No bumping or knocking, just louder. Is that something normal since the timer is now moving fully instead of only 25% of the way from before??? Also how can I tell if the timing is off at all?? I put the flywheel back on exactly how it was taken off by fitting it over the key.